Thinking of buying an R1100S and need advice
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Thinking of buying an R1100S and need advice
Hi there everyone , i am new to this forum and as i am thinking of changing my current Honda VFR800Fi for an R1100S i wondered if you could offer some advice on this machine.
I am not exactly new to BMW as i have owned an F650GS, although i appreciate that it is probably totally unlike the R1100S in every wayso...any advice on things to look out for when purchasing second hand.
I have a limited budget so will probably be an early examplr 1998 - 2000 i would expect with as low mileage as poss.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Martin
I am not exactly new to BMW as i have owned an F650GS, although i appreciate that it is probably totally unlike the R1100S in every wayso...any advice on things to look out for when purchasing second hand.
I have a limited budget so will probably be an early examplr 1998 - 2000 i would expect with as low mileage as poss.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Martin
Hi Martin - welcome to our merry band 
I've owned a Viffer 800 and more than one 1100S so hopefully will be able to give some pointers.
The BM does feel somewhat crude when ridden back to back with the VFR - it's nowhere near as smooth, doubt it'll be as reliable nor is it as well finished (however my '00 model VFR wasn't all that great it has to be said). On the other hand, the BM's more fun, handles better and on real roads is going to be just as quick. Stick a passenger on the S and you'll hardly know they're there - I found even putting someone light on the back of my VFR upset it (and she's only 8 stone...aren't you dear??
)
Personally, unless you know the S's history (ie you get it off a mate) I'd be tempted to buy a machine from a dealer. Sure, it'll cost more but values of 1100S's have gone down quite noticably in recent times. Main thing is that it'll have a warranty.
Bikes which have done less than 10-15k won't be run-in and will be rough vibration-wise (although this can vary from bike to bike).
Best thing is to get a ride on a used bike at a dealer and see if you like it. Ride it for 10 mins and you'll probably hate it, ride it for half a day and you'll know whether it's the bike for you or not. If it is, you may well become hooked - I've gone to pastures new sometime ago, but still rate the S as one of the most satisfying bikes to ride in my 25 years of biking.

I've owned a Viffer 800 and more than one 1100S so hopefully will be able to give some pointers.
The BM does feel somewhat crude when ridden back to back with the VFR - it's nowhere near as smooth, doubt it'll be as reliable nor is it as well finished (however my '00 model VFR wasn't all that great it has to be said). On the other hand, the BM's more fun, handles better and on real roads is going to be just as quick. Stick a passenger on the S and you'll hardly know they're there - I found even putting someone light on the back of my VFR upset it (and she's only 8 stone...aren't you dear??

Personally, unless you know the S's history (ie you get it off a mate) I'd be tempted to buy a machine from a dealer. Sure, it'll cost more but values of 1100S's have gone down quite noticably in recent times. Main thing is that it'll have a warranty.
Bikes which have done less than 10-15k won't be run-in and will be rough vibration-wise (although this can vary from bike to bike).
Best thing is to get a ride on a used bike at a dealer and see if you like it. Ride it for 10 mins and you'll probably hate it, ride it for half a day and you'll know whether it's the bike for you or not. If it is, you may well become hooked - I've gone to pastures new sometime ago, but still rate the S as one of the most satisfying bikes to ride in my 25 years of biking.
Richards covered most of the bases,VFR V 1100s really is a personnel thing,i'd say most people would prefer the VFR on a percentage basis,haveing a friend who's VFR mad,i reckon must hold some kind of title for the number of miles ridden with someone on a Viffer,their great bike for all seasons a great alrounder.
I've ridden a couple,i thought they were both crap!!! completely souless,and had to play 'dixie' on the gear lever to get it to do anything!!two opposeing views from the same person!!!!
Chris
I've ridden a couple,i thought they were both crap!!! completely souless,and had to play 'dixie' on the gear lever to get it to do anything!!two opposeing views from the same person!!!!
Chris
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Thanks guys.....as for comparisons pretty much what i thought you might say and i understand that the VFR and BMW are very different beasts designed to do a very similar job.
What i need to know now is the potential used R1100S failings like engine case corrosion, strange engine noises etc to look out for on used examples, wether they are from a dealer or private purchase.
Thanks again
Martin
What i need to know now is the potential used R1100S failings like engine case corrosion, strange engine noises etc to look out for on used examples, wether they are from a dealer or private purchase.
Thanks again
Martin
Martin - hope some of this info will help...
1. Finish can be pretty poor - engine case paint/paint on the forks falls off
2. Discs have been known to warp (they don't have separate carriers and bolt directly to the wheel)
3. Gearbox/engine oil seals can fail - slipping clutch when warm
4. Paralever bearings can fail at 20000+ miles. Not difficult to replace but a faff all the same
5. Leaking bevel box seals - check for oil weeping from the rear rubber gaiter on drive shaft.
6. Engine itself is pretty much bulletproof.
Not the rosiest of pictures perhaps, but on the whole the S is a very reliable bike. Plenty of guys on here with high mileage (70k+)
hth
1. Finish can be pretty poor - engine case paint/paint on the forks falls off
2. Discs have been known to warp (they don't have separate carriers and bolt directly to the wheel)
3. Gearbox/engine oil seals can fail - slipping clutch when warm
4. Paralever bearings can fail at 20000+ miles. Not difficult to replace but a faff all the same
5. Leaking bevel box seals - check for oil weeping from the rear rubber gaiter on drive shaft.
6. Engine itself is pretty much bulletproof.
Not the rosiest of pictures perhaps, but on the whole the S is a very reliable bike. Plenty of guys on here with high mileage (70k+)
hth
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lamurada wrote: What i need to know now is the potential used R1100S failings like engine case corrosion, strange engine noises etc
Ah they all do that sir.
It's a topping good bike, which I chopped my last vfr for a few years back, having gone 750 > 800 > 750 again 'cause the 750 was the best ( imho ) However after an hour or so on the S the vfr seemed gutless, souless and too much like hard work. The S for me anyway ticks all the right boxes, I still like the vfr, just not as much as the S, which I guess says it all. Get a test ride preferabley a half day as has been said and then decide. I'd agree that the problems are mostly cosmetic, other than the odd seal and bearing, nothing to add the mentioned faults tbh. The plus side however is it's a peachy bike to work on with dead easy access for most things.
Toodle Pip

Cheers
PAul
Keep it sticky side down.

PAul
Keep it sticky side down.

You guys forgot to add some of the more obvious points:
ABS is ok until it fails, but then you just throw away the pump and go with straight lines.
ABS and/or heated grips fitted as standard get you the larger alternator to power them. Retrofitted stuff may not have that.
Low battery power plays havoc with an ABS bike and keeps giving you idiot lights as the least worrying part of that.
Centre-stands were optional extras. Paddock stands are a different pan of trout.
Wider 5.5" rear wheels to take common 180 tyres were optional. 5" wheels should not have 180s on, just 170s.
Finish is actually pretty resilient (in my experience of them) and a good wash really brings them up easily.
Shaft drive save money on chains/sprockets.
Shaft drive costs money when seals go - but much less if you can weild spanners yourself.
It shakes, vibrates, buzzes (though not uncomfortably) and will allegedly touch it's heads down as soon as you look at a corner.
It has character.
It has to be leaned a looooooooooong way, actually.
The brakes are *good*.
It still looks good with pannier rails on - can't say that about most bikes.
It sounds like nothing else.
ABS is ok until it fails, but then you just throw away the pump and go with straight lines.
ABS and/or heated grips fitted as standard get you the larger alternator to power them. Retrofitted stuff may not have that.
Low battery power plays havoc with an ABS bike and keeps giving you idiot lights as the least worrying part of that.
Centre-stands were optional extras. Paddock stands are a different pan of trout.
Wider 5.5" rear wheels to take common 180 tyres were optional. 5" wheels should not have 180s on, just 170s.
Finish is actually pretty resilient (in my experience of them) and a good wash really brings them up easily.
Shaft drive save money on chains/sprockets.
Shaft drive costs money when seals go - but much less if you can weild spanners yourself.
It shakes, vibrates, buzzes (though not uncomfortably) and will allegedly touch it's heads down as soon as you look at a corner.
It has character.
It has to be leaned a looooooooooong way, actually.
The brakes are *good*.

It still looks good with pannier rails on - can't say that about most bikes.
It sounds like nothing else.
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Fair enough, wasn't considering ABS bikes at allMe-109 wrote:You guys forgot to add some of the more obvious points:
ABS is ok until it fails, but then you just throw away the pump and go with straight lines.
ABS and/or heated grips fitted as standard get you the larger alternator to power them. Retrofitted stuff may not have that.
Low battery power plays havoc with an ABS bike and keeps giving you idiot lights as the least worrying part of that.
Centre-stands were optional extras. Paddock stands are a different pan of trout.
Wider 5.5" rear wheels to take common 180 tyres were optional. 5" wheels should not have 180s on, just 170s.
Finish is actually pretty resilient (in my experience of them) and a good wash really brings them up easily.
Shaft drive save money on chains/sprockets.
Shaft drive costs money when seals go - but much less if you can weild spanners yourself.
It shakes, vibrates, buzzes (though not uncomfortably) and will allegedly touch it's heads down as soon as you look at a corner.
It has character.
It has to be leaned a looooooooooong way, actually.
The brakes are *good*.![]()
It still looks good with pannier rails on - can't say that about most bikes.
It sounds like nothing else.


Hawker Odessey Battery will solve any ABS low battery power issues

I don't have the bigger alternator and run heated grips, intercom, a set of PIAA's and have never had any problems with power.
Centre stands won't fit with Boxercup belly pans, forgot that, sorry

Never had any problem getting those rare 170 section tyres

Got to disagree on the sound, at tickover it sounds just like a tractor with gravel in it's oil !

Other than that yep it's all (mostly ) good
Toodle Pip


Last edited by theseadog on Sun May 21, 2006 4:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Cheers
PAul
Keep it sticky side down.

PAul
Keep it sticky side down.

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NU13 insurancelamurada wrote:Thanks all this info is really interesting, i will contact my local dealer for a test ride as i know they have 3 used examples in stock and one is i believe the boxer cup edition.
Does anyone know the insurance group so i can compare to VFR800fi group?
Thanks again
Martin
Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
A haa something else we haven't covered!!! don't get carried away with the Boxercup thing,performance wise their barely able to put a nano second on a stocker,just taller,louder,and a fancy paint job.
Look for a bike with the right bits on,aftermarket shocks,carbon induct(look inside the front of left hand fairing panel),a decent set of exhaust cans, and multitude of other bits,all of which can transform the S,it's a world away from a Viffer in that sense
Look for a bike with the right bits on,aftermarket shocks,carbon induct(look inside the front of left hand fairing panel),a decent set of exhaust cans, and multitude of other bits,all of which can transform the S,it's a world away from a Viffer in that sense
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Come now Chris, you're surely not suggesting that every mag review I've ever read that says that the BCR has an extra 10 hp is wrong surely . . . . . as if Journos would say something untrue . . . . pfff
That's a good point actually and one that we'd all forgotten to mention, and good advice regarding the add-ons, that'll be an extra gold star in your jotter at the end of class then !
Toodle Pip

That's a good point actually and one that we'd all forgotten to mention, and good advice regarding the add-ons, that'll be an extra gold star in your jotter at the end of class then !

Toodle Pip

Cheers
PAul
Keep it sticky side down.

PAul
Keep it sticky side down.

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