Final Drive Bearing

[Skint]

I changed the lower swing bearings... Thanks for the help guys...
However, there is still play in the rear wheel, the bevel box is not moving but there is deffo play in the wheel mounting... Would the final drive bearing be at fault here???
Is it easy to change... do i need a mountain of equipment to do it?? or is it oone of those send it in things??

[bigblackfalco]

It's very unlikely to be the main wheel bearing unless you have done over 150K miles!
Have you checked the swingarm bearings aswell as the paralever pivot bearings??
Bailey.

[Jason M]

Dunno about 150k. My mate on a GS had his go at about 35K. If you take the oil out the rear diff and run it through your fingers to check for chaff - that's what he had and the main crown bearing had gone. The bloke at SPC said someone elses had gone about 30k (the bloke that rode like a nutter). That big 4in diameter jobbie had failed and had to be replaced. Not something I'd necessarily try cos you probably have to disassemble the diff. Easy enough to take it off though obviously and just deliver it to them to fix.

My mate was getting slight vibration though which is what drew his attention to it in the first place. When he got it off there wasn't masses of play but in a diameter that big I suppose it had quite an effect.

Jason

[Skint]

It's very unlikely to be the main wheel bearing unless you have done over 150K miles!
Have you checked the swingarm bearings aswell as the paralever pivot bearings??
Bailey.

Yep it does look like the final bearing, the new swingarm bearings went in but the play is still there, so by the powers of deduction i would assume it to be the final bearing.. So the dif is being ripped apart and being rebuilt umpteen times until it is in tollerance.. So 25 quid for the part 000's for the labour.. gits...

[bigblackfalco]

Bmw build quality is second to a nun!
?????
Bailey.

[Jason M]

I flippin knew this would happen!

Let me know how much it costs cos I might not be far behind you unless I can extract the diff from Julians wreck

I changed the 'oil' in the diff today cos it's been sounding real noisy this week. I say 'oil' because what came out was more like metalic paint. The flippin stuff was like the finest silver metalflake. Looks as though something expensive could be happening. The magnetic bottom bolt was covered too. I know that a fair ammount of chaff could be considered normal but this was excessive. It didn't look like 0.45ltr came out either and there was some on the swingarm under the consetina jobbie too.

It's difficult to tell if there is any 'extra' vibration. There is certainly no play in the wheel from what I can tell but rolling the wheel round with the flat of my hand on the tyre feels a bit rough. There again I don't remember doing that before so I don't know what it felt like. The transmission is so noisy anyway when you spin the wheel round that it's difficult to know what is making which noise.

Guess I'll have to wait and see what happens - could put the kybosch on next weekends trip to Yorkshire for me though

[Jason M]

Took my bike for a quick spin today sans helmet and the back is moaning and wailing like a tourtured soul. It's definately wank*d. I took it off this afternoon and there is some oil in the lower U/J housing and lots under the rubber boot - I wash it every week so I think I'd have noticed. This coupled with the lack of juice that came out the diff makes me think it's maybe run too dry last week and shagged the bearing.

I'll drop the assembly at S C tomorrow on the way to work so hopefully I'll have it back in time for next weekend

Now I just have to work out the details of the bank robbery to pay for it

Jason

[Skint]

It was the final drive bearing, the crown and the one behind the UJ bit.. about 190 with labour in that , the parts were about 40 - 50... Found that the loctite crap i had for the para bearings is off, crap... As the tech was not amused at the lack of loctite on the pivot threads, apparently they will vibe loose if not loctited, they use the green loctite, medium strength...

[Darth_1100S]

Thanks for that skint....I was gonna ask if anyone knew which Loctitie to use. As soon as my pivots and bearings arrive form MotorWorks I'll be doing them.

Just a question...Does anyone know if GS1150 owners have these probs with their bikes? As far as I can make out the S and the GS share the same swingarm.

Maybe I'll pop on to the GSers forum and ask ' em

Dave.

[Jason M]

Darth

I've got some of the loctite reccomended in the manual if you want to borrow a squeeze - it's f'kin expensive at about £30 for just a little pot Got mine of e-bay for about £7

[Skint]

Jason M, what is the recommended??? is it the blue high strength???
That dries solid and is a bugger to heat up and get off, i was using the blue nut locker which did not really dry so will vide loose i was a told... The techos use the green stuuf, dries a bit glassey but use a smaller thermo nuclear device to loosen it..

[minivin]

Loctite 243 is the medium strength thread lock

while my favourite is 638 retainer had problems keeping the carb on the mounting for my Vincent, so I put some retainer on and is swiftly flowed back into the carburettor and stuck the slide and all the jets, oh how I laughed

[Boxadog 2000]

The Loctite product recomended is Loctite 2701 which is a high strength retainer 2701 is called improved 270, 270 being the older version both have very similar characteristics ie +150 c temp range 6 hr full cure time and a break away strength of 38 NM (based on a 10mm bolt) both are suitable for use on threads up to 20mm oh yeah 2701 is also classed as oil tollerant IE can be used on parts that are not able to be fully degreased.
Loctite 2701 50ml bottles £26.14 (less 30% to trixters)
Loctite 270 10ml & 50ml 10ml £5.63 less same discoint.
Both plus the dreaded VAT.

Note if you buy Loctite alwas check on the bottom of the bottle for the expiry date

Bob

[gus]

At 160nm torque on the fixed pivot pin and locknut,i dont reckon its gonna vibrate loose.I aint used none on mine since i changed the first set of bearings over 7000miles ago.When i put the new pins and new bearings in,it was still bloody tight.Feel free to do what ever you feel is needed but think about this,how many people or tyre places lockite their front caliper bolts.
gus

[Darth_1100S]

Jason, thanks for the offer - much appreciated. I have a mate who works as an engineer in a power plant, he's getting me some of the precious brew! I assume he's gonna nick it coz I aint payin him for it at that price.

Dave.