Valve clearances/end float checks

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SonnyJim
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Valve clearances/end float checks

Postby SonnyJim » Sun May 18, 2008 6:24 pm

Hi,
There used to be a "sticky" on this not long ago with step by step instructions and pictures but I can't find it now. Think it was by Winger but not sure.
Anyway, I'm about to service my bike and it would be very handy to refer to.
Can some one point me in the right direction. Tried the search function and there are links for this topic to other sites etc but I thought this one was the best.
Cheers.

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The Teutonic Tangerine
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Postby The Teutonic Tangerine » Mon May 19, 2008 9:42 am

There would appear to be a surfeit of prolixity and sesquipedalian content today please do not use a big word when a singularly un-loquacious and diminutive linguistic expression will satisfactorily accomplish the contemporary necessity

Steptoe
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Postby Steptoe » Mon May 19, 2008 11:53 am

Here you go - Here's one i did earlier :D :D It's on an 1100GS but the principal is the same.

Checking valve clearances and rocker end float ;

When removing the valve cover, the inner gasket has a habit of staying in the head. Gently remove it and fit it to the cover, if left in place you’ll most likely “pinch” it when replacing the cover, and find you’ve an oil leak.

If you remove the cover, and it looks like this - the inner gasket is still stuck in the head

Image

There it is inside, gently pry it out , and fit it to the cover

Image

How you want it to look

Image


All the following work must be done with the engine COLD

The engine must be at TDC on the side your checking, before any clearances can be measured. I always start on the L/H side, then do the right. It requires less turning over of the engine.
Set the engine to TDC (top dead center), put it in gear, remove both spark plugs, and turn the engine over by rotating the rear wheel by hand. On the cylinder your looking at, You want the inlet valve to be closing as the piston comes up to TDC, if you don’t know what I’m talking about, you shouldn’t be attempting this job ; ) insert a small screwdriver or straw into the spark plug hole, and as yourotate the wheel the screwdriver/straw will be pushed out of the spark plug hole, when it reaches the max coming out point, stop. That’s the TDC.
Image


Before you check the valve clearances, you also want to make sure the rocker endfloat is within tolerance - The clearance allowed is between = min 0.05 & max 0.40 . ( the same for inlet & exhaust)

Where to check the endfloat

Image

It’s better to keep it at the minimum gap, it helps surging problems , and runs much better.
Here’s where the benefit of doing it yourself comes in. Most workshops will leave it if it’s inside the spec, less unnecessary work for them . But you’ll never have the sweet running bike that you could have.

To adjust the endfloat, you’ll need a T45 socket, and a 15mm hex socket. And a torque wrench to do it all back up.

Here’s the 3 torq bolts .

Image

And the one 15mm hex bolt.

Image

Undo them all, then just nip them up finger tight.
You then tap the lower rocker support bar until the gap is correct . This can be a pain in the arse, and seem a bitof a bodge, but it’s how it’s done. Just take your time.

The support bar
Image

Now torque up the bolts - the torq bolts are 9nm .
The hex bolt is a cylinder head bolt, so needs to be tightened to 20nm, and then turned another 180 degrees.
Image

When you’ve done that to your satisfaction, you now measure the valve clearances.

Inlet 0.15
Exhaust 0.30

Measuring the valve clearances
Image

To adjust the gaps, you’l need a 10mm spanner ,and a 3mm allen key. The 10mm nut is a lock nut, you adjust the gapwith the allen key.
Adjusting the gaps
Image


When your happy with all that, you then repeat it on the other side.
Remembering to get the engine at TDC on that side before measuring any clearances.

The end result of both the valve clearences, and more importantly the rocker end float ( plus the throttle sync afterwards) will give you a bike smoother and quieter, and more responsive.

Taken me longer to type this than to do the whole job from start to finish.[/QUOTE]

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Bruno
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Postby Bruno » Mon May 19, 2008 12:45 pm

Steptoe,
So you don't bother with the two feeler gauge technique sometimes mentioned for setting the actual valve clearances then?
I've only done the adjustment once on my bike and I found the lack of a third hand a bit of a handicap.

Regards,
Mark
Why do cheap bikes never end up that way?

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timbox2
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Postby timbox2 » Mon May 19, 2008 5:01 pm

Excellent Steptoe, cheers for that, I have done my valve clearances recently but didnt do the endfloats as I couldnt remember how it was done, think Ill pull the covers off again cos Im sure they are well out.
---------------------------

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ianbcr
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Postby ianbcr » Mon May 19, 2008 5:51 pm

could have put this into a " How To" forum, Paul. lol. :D
Your born with a certain amout of heart beats, Dont waste them on exersise. [smilie=rooster.gif]


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SonnyJim
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Location: NE Scotland

Valve clearances/end float checks

Postby SonnyJim » Tue May 20, 2008 7:12 pm

Yes, many thanks Steptoe. That's a brilliant step by step for the valves and end float and will help me no end when I come to do the service.
I also agree with Ianbcr that a forum of "How to's" would be handy as all the jobs most people have to attempt at one time or another would be in one place.
Thanks again
Clarke.

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snavetrauts
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Postby snavetrauts » Tue May 20, 2008 7:49 pm

Cheers Steptoe...... Just done mine...

Both end floats were at about .004 inches so I adjusted them down to .002, the minimum. Sorry about the conversion.

It seems to me that the tolerance given by the manual is incredibly wide. .05mm to .40mm.... that .002 to .016 in old money. That's very wide is'nt it.

I was a little worried at undoing one head stud and not the other 3.. but I torqued it back down to the specified rating... so Hopefully, nothing is bad here????!!!.

Thanks once again for the explanation... great.

Stuart
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