Thanks for that - looks like an easy job. Not too expensive on parts either in the US, but probably a lot more here...
Tyres and tick-tickety noise ...
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Thanks, Geoff ...At 37k mine suddenly started a really noisy rattle from cold, which lasted for 2 or 3 miles until the engine got warm. This was on the Rh pot, I tried a new tensioner no joy. I drilled the oil holes in the tensioner body (it was only a little hole and maybe the cold oil was too thick to get inside the plunger and properly pressurize it), after that the rattle went as soon as you revved it a little after cold startup. The rattle went completely after I put a steel rod down the middle of the tensioner, just a gnats short of putting guitar-string tension on the camchain. I think my oil pump is worn. Does anybody know why the LH side is (reportedly) the one that's affected. Also, what does the Boxer Performance throttle plate damper consist of? (my RH butterfly rattles on tickover) Cheers.
There is a modded tentioner for the LHS pot. Is that the type you've fitted ?
Another suggestion is to speak to Steve at Scriminger Engineering - seem to remember him saying the LHS had a longer run and was a real pain to setting up the engine properly
Another suggestion is to speak to Steve at Scriminger Engineering - seem to remember him saying the LHS had a longer run and was a real pain to setting up the engine properly
Lloyd
It's not how fast you ride, it's how you ride fast.
Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear
bright until you hear them speak.
It's not how fast you ride, it's how you ride fast.
Light travels faster than sound. That's why some people appear
bright until you hear them speak.
No, I just cut a length of 4mm rod and put it down the middle of the spring - the tensioner was relaxing too much after the engine stops and, although it might be the spring thats too weak, I didn't want to replace it with a monster spring. The rod just means that the tensioner can only relax by a millimetre or so, crude. There's so much slack in an untensioned camchain, and the startup rattle was so bad, that I was worried that the chain might jump, or at best just score the tunnel. The Pelican site includes mention of a non-return valve in the new tensioner, which seems sophisticated, I wondered if anyone could confirm this. I agree about setting up the engine; the presence of yet another chain, (the front one) between crank and cam, and the 1:1 small sprockets on the camchain means that there's an awful lot of backlash in there. I've gone on about wayward cam-timing before, but degreeing your cams might be a worthwhile first step for anyone on the Better Performance thing. I'm in Barnsley and I've got the kit (DTI and custom bracket) if anyone wants.