Just checking over my lovely, newly purchased R1200S.
Looks like the previous owner has fitted an oversized rear tyre.
The rear wheel is marked 17xMT550 & the rear tyre is a 190/50 17.
Would this be a 6" tyre fitted to a standard 5.5" wheel?
If so, just wondered if it's going to be a problem?
R1200S Tyres
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nicholsonj2252
- Posts: 139
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Re: R1200S Tyres
See below :Dids wrote:Just checking over my lovely, newly purchased R1200S.
Looks like the previous owner has fitted an oversized rear tyre.
The rear wheel is marked 17xMT550 & the rear tyre is a 190/50 17.
Would this be a 6" tyre fitted to a standard 5.5" wheel?
If so, just wondered if it's going to be a problem?
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dave the german
- Member
- Posts: 3641
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:35 am
- Location: North East
I think I posted something earlier that the Ohlins didn't necessarily include the 6" wheel but I think the Forum came to the conclusion that most would have had both fitted. I think it's mentioned in the sale leaflet but damned if I can find it at the mo!!!!Mitch1100 wrote:Does yours have Ohlins front and rear as the optional extras included the 6" rear wheel.
'15 R1200GS TE
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
Yes, I think I read somewhere too that the 6" wheel option was separate from the Ohlin option.
Most people who chose the Ohlin option would choose the 6" wheel and those that didn't went for the 5.5" wheel, for some reason.....
Guess that my R1200S, with standard shocks, could have the 6" wheel option, but the marking 17xMT550 makes me think otherwise.
BTW I'm glad now that mine doesn't have the Ohlin shocks as, from what I read recently, the Ohlins appear need regular & expensive overhauls!
Most people who chose the Ohlin option would choose the 6" wheel and those that didn't went for the 5.5" wheel, for some reason.....
Guess that my R1200S, with standard shocks, could have the 6" wheel option, but the marking 17xMT550 makes me think otherwise.
BTW I'm glad now that mine doesn't have the Ohlin shocks as, from what I read recently, the Ohlins appear need regular & expensive overhauls!
I think the makers just like convincing people: "You have purchased a top quality suspension unit. In order to maintain the utmost ride quality - it is recommended that the units are serviced every ****** (insert suitable schedule - to keep everyone in business)"Dids wrote:
BTW I'm glad now that mine doesn't have the Ohlin shocks as, from what I read recently, the Ohlins appear need regular & expensive overhauls!
A bit like the bed companies: "Renew your mattress every 8 yrs"
Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
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dave the german
- Member
- Posts: 3641
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:35 am
- Location: North East
BTW I'm glad now that mine doesn't have the Ohlin shocks as, from what I read recently, the Ohlins appear need regular & expensive overhauls![/quote]
I don't think my shocks had been serviced until I got the bike (I might be wrong about this) and mine won't be getting done every 2 years (unless I ride it more often) but I'll just keep an eye for any weeping oil. I'm pleased they're on tho
I don't think my shocks had been serviced until I got the bike (I might be wrong about this) and mine won't be getting done every 2 years (unless I ride it more often) but I'll just keep an eye for any weeping oil. I'm pleased they're on tho
'15 R1200GS TE
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
I think I posted something earlier that the Ohlins didn't necessarily include the 6" wheel but I think the Forum came to the conclusion that most would have had both fitted. I think it's mentioned in the sale leaflet but damned if I can find it at the mo!!!![/quote]
You're right Dave there was a list of options of course
2007 BMW R1200S Options, Equipment, and Prices
Select 2007 BMW R1200S Options
Continue OR select options below
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Suggested
List Price
Titanium / Stainless Silencer $1,895
SUSPENSION
Sport Suspension Ohlins®, Factory Installed $690
Front Shock $965
Rear Shock $1,705
WHEELS & TIRES
Wide Rear Wheel 6.0 x 17, Factory Installed $205
Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM), Factory Installed $260
BRAKES
ABS (Disconnectable), Factory Installed $925
EXTERIOR
Paddock Stand $199
Carbon Fiber Exhaust Cover $243
GLASS
Tinted Windshield $250
SEATS
Passenger Seat Cover $295
CONVENIENCE
Anti-theft Alarm, Factory Installed $235
Heated Hand Grips, Factory Installed $235
INSTRUMENTATION
On Board Computer, Factory Installed $275
STORAGE
19-lt. Sports Softbag $167
Expandable Tank Bag $325
MOUNTS
Adaptor For Paddock Stand $24
You're right Dave there was a list of options of course
2007 BMW R1200S Options, Equipment, and Prices
Select 2007 BMW R1200S Options
Continue OR select options below
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Suggested
List Price
Titanium / Stainless Silencer $1,895
SUSPENSION
Sport Suspension Ohlins®, Factory Installed $690
Front Shock $965
Rear Shock $1,705
WHEELS & TIRES
Wide Rear Wheel 6.0 x 17, Factory Installed $205
Tire Pressure Monitoring (TPM), Factory Installed $260
BRAKES
ABS (Disconnectable), Factory Installed $925
EXTERIOR
Paddock Stand $199
Carbon Fiber Exhaust Cover $243
GLASS
Tinted Windshield $250
SEATS
Passenger Seat Cover $295
CONVENIENCE
Anti-theft Alarm, Factory Installed $235
Heated Hand Grips, Factory Installed $235
INSTRUMENTATION
On Board Computer, Factory Installed $275
STORAGE
19-lt. Sports Softbag $167
Expandable Tank Bag $325
MOUNTS
Adaptor For Paddock Stand $24
2009 HP2 Sport...sold
2006 R1200s with yellow rim tape
2008 Ducati Monster S4RS Tricolore..sold
2004 R1100s BoxerCup Replika..sold
2006 Subaru WRX STI S204 #318/600
2006 R1200s with yellow rim tape
2008 Ducati Monster S4RS Tricolore..sold
2004 R1100s BoxerCup Replika..sold
2006 Subaru WRX STI S204 #318/600
Just been looking at a Kawasaki forum and found this article:
"Does Size Matter?
Squeezing a wide tire onto a narrow rim can be a big mistake. Here's why.
By Andrew Trevitt
Those low-profile 190-series tires sure look gnarly on the back of a sportbike, and we've seen them pinched onto all sizes of rims. But in reality, a 190/50-17 fits properly only on a 6.0-inch rim, and cramming it onto anything smaller severely changes its profile.
As an experiment, we mounted a 190-series Metzeler Rennsport onto our F4i's 5.5-inch rear wheel and took some measurements. Compared to the correctly sized tire on the same rim, the 190's profile closely matches the 180's near the edges of the tread, but is much lower in the center area-equivalent to about a 6mm change in ride height. Effectively, the wider tire will give more rake and trail when the bike is vertical, while keeping close to the original geometry when the bike is leaned over. Accounting for one (by changing ride height) will unduly affect the other.
Following our test with the Metzeler Sportecs, we slipped a 190/50 rear Sportec onto the F4i and rode a portion of the test loop for a practical comparison. With no changes to suspension or geometry, the F4i felt substantially different with the wider tire. With the bike straight up and down, steering was slightly sluggish in comparison, but just off vertical, the F4i was quite tippy and darted into corners. The light, neutral steering of the Sportecs was completely changed and the bike lost its balanced feel. The sensation was very much like riding on a tire squared off from too many freeway miles. At higher lean angles, performance was less affected, although making transitions from side to side was unpredictable. And, contrary to the popular myth that the wider tire puts down a bigger footprint and gives more traction, we felt no improvement in that department from the properly sized tire.
We've experienced similar changes with a 180-series tire on a 5.0-inch rim meant for a 170-series bun. Tire engineers work hard to design and match front and rear profiles for characteristics that we sometimes take for granted. Upsetting that balance is surprisingly easy and you should think twice before sacrificing your tire's performance for appearance's sake.
This scaled line drawing shows how the 190-section tire retains its low profile in the center of the tread, but pinches in to match the 180's profile at the edges. Steering characteristics are substantially changed.
Cramming a 190-section rear tire onto a 5.5-inch rim results in a multi-radius profile as shown here. Above, a 180/55-17 rear tire properly mounted on a 5.5-inch rim."
And then I found this on a Ducati forum:
"Like the earlier 916, Ducati 999's were delivered with 5.5 in. rims and 190/50ZR17 tires.
When you mount a 190 tire onto a 5.5 inch rim its profile becomes slightly incorrect. The too-narrow rim forces the tire's outer edges inward into a tighter curve so that you can't use this part of the tire effectively. A correct tire profile creates a correctly shaped road contact patch essential to optimum handling, better sidewall stability with less tire flex and, and better overall tire wear.
When developing the suspension for the 916, Ducati had World Superbike racing in mind so when they sold models for the street they decided to mount 190/50 tires to 5.5 inch rims, a good combination for stable handling. It's been pointed out that WSB Ducati's then used 19/67 race tires, roughly equivalent to a 190/60 road tire.
So, we got the wide tire look without the quicker turn-in handling characteristics of the 60 section race tire.
In the 1995 916 owner's manual, Ducati specified the 180/55 as an "alternative" to the 190/50 and the bike's under-seat specification sticker also listed both sizes as recommended.
It wasn't too long before owners figured out that switching from the 190/50 to the 180/55 gave a very noticeable change in cornering feel. The 180s, mainly because of their taller, steeper profile, turn-in much quicker and easier. So eventually the word spread, and everyone who has changed to the 180s has praised its positive effects on handling.
I've run both sizes and it seems to me that the folklore about 180 tires handling better or turning-in quicker is simply describing the perceived difference between a worn 190 being replaced by a new 180. A new 190 would have handled just as well and turned-in just as quick.
The outside diameter of both size tires is the same so a switch won't require a rear ride height adjustment. The important difference is that the 180 is a 55 section meaning that its height is 55% of the width cross-section. The 190 is 50% of its width. This means that the 55-section tire has a steeper profile, it's taller.
A 180 tire is also slightly lighter. This will account for part of the subjective handling improvement experienced when moving from a 190 section tire. The weight difference between brands is greater, especially for the front tire. For example, 120/70 front Pirelli Supercorsa's (8 lb. 6 oz.) Dunlop D207RR (10 lb. 7 oz.) A two pound lighter tire will reduce rotational inertia by the same order of magnitude that you get when switching from an aluminum to a magnesium wheel.
The 190 size somewhat is stiffer because of the shorter profile. This results in increased grip and reduces the tire carcass flex (better feedback), making accelerating hard out of turns less scary. Also, if you reduce tire size, with the same horsepower you're going to stress the tire carcass more. This however hasn't been a problem, even with the most powerful street bike models.
The general rule is that a 5.5-in rim should be used with a 180 width tire and a 6-in rim should be used with a 190. However, some tire profiles are more sensitive to rim width than others. Dunlop, for example, says that their 180 slick works fine with a 6.0 to 6.25 inch wide rim.
In the past, both Michelin and Pirelli have stated that a 5.5 to 6.0 inch wheel is suitable for either a 180 or a 190 tire width. So the choice is yours."
Soooooooooooooooooo.........
It looks like it's probably safe to fit a 190/50 tyre to a 5.5" rim.
But it's probably going to have an unpredictable effect on the handling.
Anyone else on this forum fitted a 190/50 tyre to a 5.5" rim??
"Does Size Matter?
Squeezing a wide tire onto a narrow rim can be a big mistake. Here's why.
By Andrew Trevitt
Those low-profile 190-series tires sure look gnarly on the back of a sportbike, and we've seen them pinched onto all sizes of rims. But in reality, a 190/50-17 fits properly only on a 6.0-inch rim, and cramming it onto anything smaller severely changes its profile.
As an experiment, we mounted a 190-series Metzeler Rennsport onto our F4i's 5.5-inch rear wheel and took some measurements. Compared to the correctly sized tire on the same rim, the 190's profile closely matches the 180's near the edges of the tread, but is much lower in the center area-equivalent to about a 6mm change in ride height. Effectively, the wider tire will give more rake and trail when the bike is vertical, while keeping close to the original geometry when the bike is leaned over. Accounting for one (by changing ride height) will unduly affect the other.
Following our test with the Metzeler Sportecs, we slipped a 190/50 rear Sportec onto the F4i and rode a portion of the test loop for a practical comparison. With no changes to suspension or geometry, the F4i felt substantially different with the wider tire. With the bike straight up and down, steering was slightly sluggish in comparison, but just off vertical, the F4i was quite tippy and darted into corners. The light, neutral steering of the Sportecs was completely changed and the bike lost its balanced feel. The sensation was very much like riding on a tire squared off from too many freeway miles. At higher lean angles, performance was less affected, although making transitions from side to side was unpredictable. And, contrary to the popular myth that the wider tire puts down a bigger footprint and gives more traction, we felt no improvement in that department from the properly sized tire.
We've experienced similar changes with a 180-series tire on a 5.0-inch rim meant for a 170-series bun. Tire engineers work hard to design and match front and rear profiles for characteristics that we sometimes take for granted. Upsetting that balance is surprisingly easy and you should think twice before sacrificing your tire's performance for appearance's sake.
This scaled line drawing shows how the 190-section tire retains its low profile in the center of the tread, but pinches in to match the 180's profile at the edges. Steering characteristics are substantially changed.
Cramming a 190-section rear tire onto a 5.5-inch rim results in a multi-radius profile as shown here. Above, a 180/55-17 rear tire properly mounted on a 5.5-inch rim."
And then I found this on a Ducati forum:
"Like the earlier 916, Ducati 999's were delivered with 5.5 in. rims and 190/50ZR17 tires.
When you mount a 190 tire onto a 5.5 inch rim its profile becomes slightly incorrect. The too-narrow rim forces the tire's outer edges inward into a tighter curve so that you can't use this part of the tire effectively. A correct tire profile creates a correctly shaped road contact patch essential to optimum handling, better sidewall stability with less tire flex and, and better overall tire wear.
When developing the suspension for the 916, Ducati had World Superbike racing in mind so when they sold models for the street they decided to mount 190/50 tires to 5.5 inch rims, a good combination for stable handling. It's been pointed out that WSB Ducati's then used 19/67 race tires, roughly equivalent to a 190/60 road tire.
So, we got the wide tire look without the quicker turn-in handling characteristics of the 60 section race tire.
In the 1995 916 owner's manual, Ducati specified the 180/55 as an "alternative" to the 190/50 and the bike's under-seat specification sticker also listed both sizes as recommended.
It wasn't too long before owners figured out that switching from the 190/50 to the 180/55 gave a very noticeable change in cornering feel. The 180s, mainly because of their taller, steeper profile, turn-in much quicker and easier. So eventually the word spread, and everyone who has changed to the 180s has praised its positive effects on handling.
I've run both sizes and it seems to me that the folklore about 180 tires handling better or turning-in quicker is simply describing the perceived difference between a worn 190 being replaced by a new 180. A new 190 would have handled just as well and turned-in just as quick.
The outside diameter of both size tires is the same so a switch won't require a rear ride height adjustment. The important difference is that the 180 is a 55 section meaning that its height is 55% of the width cross-section. The 190 is 50% of its width. This means that the 55-section tire has a steeper profile, it's taller.
A 180 tire is also slightly lighter. This will account for part of the subjective handling improvement experienced when moving from a 190 section tire. The weight difference between brands is greater, especially for the front tire. For example, 120/70 front Pirelli Supercorsa's (8 lb. 6 oz.) Dunlop D207RR (10 lb. 7 oz.) A two pound lighter tire will reduce rotational inertia by the same order of magnitude that you get when switching from an aluminum to a magnesium wheel.
The 190 size somewhat is stiffer because of the shorter profile. This results in increased grip and reduces the tire carcass flex (better feedback), making accelerating hard out of turns less scary. Also, if you reduce tire size, with the same horsepower you're going to stress the tire carcass more. This however hasn't been a problem, even with the most powerful street bike models.
The general rule is that a 5.5-in rim should be used with a 180 width tire and a 6-in rim should be used with a 190. However, some tire profiles are more sensitive to rim width than others. Dunlop, for example, says that their 180 slick works fine with a 6.0 to 6.25 inch wide rim.
In the past, both Michelin and Pirelli have stated that a 5.5 to 6.0 inch wheel is suitable for either a 180 or a 190 tire width. So the choice is yours."
Soooooooooooooooooo.........
It looks like it's probably safe to fit a 190/50 tyre to a 5.5" rim.
But it's probably going to have an unpredictable effect on the handling.
Anyone else on this forum fitted a 190/50 tyre to a 5.5" rim??
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fontana
Actually that's a fair one.Blackal wrote: A bit like the bed companies: "Renew your mattress every 8 yrs"
Al
I'm surprised they recommend that long.
Mattresses are a jungle of dust mites and bedbugs, milling around among dried remnants of blood, saliva, sweat and basically all the other bodily fluids you can think of, and a mattress cover doesn't stop them.