Heat Shielding in Belly Pan

Pull up a chair - let's talk Boxerbollox

Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry

User avatar
Taz
Posts: 385
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:26 pm
Location: Cheshire

Heat Shielding in Belly Pan

Postby Taz » Mon Mar 30, 2015 3:48 pm

Has anyone replaced the silver heat shielding inside the belly pan of a BCR and if so what did you use ?

Thanks.
Taz

R1250RS

So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?

User avatar
Blackal
Posts: 8261
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:53 pm

Postby Blackal » Mon Mar 30, 2015 3:51 pm

Ebay is your friend.

I got a sheet off e-bay a while ago - sticks on fine.

Something like this, but perhaps there are better prices?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAT-SHIELD-F ... 5d523f4a45


Al :D
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........

See if that works .....
:?

User avatar
Dog Tyred
Member
Posts: 2696
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2006 12:27 pm
Location: Tamuff

Postby Dog Tyred » Mon Mar 30, 2015 5:18 pm

I just used aluminium foil tape in 100mm widths when I did mine. Works a treat and looks the doodahs. Been on for 5 years or so and no signs of failure.

Really don't think it needs to be high temp stuff as never gets that warm.

DT
Ride like your life depended on it.

2002 BCR

User avatar
Taz
Posts: 385
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:26 pm
Location: Cheshire

Heat Shielding

Postby Taz » Mon Mar 30, 2015 6:37 pm

Thank you for the suggestions. I found a similar matting on ebay which will hopefully do the job.

Belly pan, pillion seat cover and rear tail surround off for repaint to remove the scratches from the previous owner's 'tender loving care'.
Taz

R1250RS

So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?

ceepee
Posts: 13
Joined: Sun Aug 25, 2013 8:59 pm
Location: west sussex

heat shield

Postby ceepee » Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:51 pm

when replacing mine i found that using a 1inch paint brush to smooth the shielding in works a treat

metropolis2k
Posts: 380
Joined: Sun May 26, 2013 4:47 pm
Location: London

Postby metropolis2k » Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:07 pm

Could you post up some pics when the repaint is done? I need a few bits touching up on my BCR and am looking for the right person to do it. If they do a good job they can do my track fairings too :wink:
2000 BMW R1150GS
2004 BMW R1100SS Boxer Cup Replica
2003 Yamaha R6 (trackday bike)

User avatar
HerrFlick
Posts: 393
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 7:25 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia.

Postby HerrFlick » Sat Apr 04, 2015 12:33 pm

Thermal barrier ceramic coating of headers? Huge temp reduction from what I've heard.
Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)

User avatar
Blackal
Posts: 8261
Joined: Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:53 pm

Postby Blackal » Sun Apr 05, 2015 1:27 pm

HerrFlick wrote:Thermal barrier ceramic coating of headers? Huge temp reduction from what I've heard.


Then everything downstream is hotter (and you'll need Nomex underwear) :shock:

Al :wink:
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........

See if that works .....
:?

User avatar
HerrFlick
Posts: 393
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 7:25 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia.

Postby HerrFlick » Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:06 pm

Blackal wrote:
HerrFlick wrote:Thermal barrier ceramic coating of headers? Huge temp reduction from what I've heard.


Then everything downstream is hotter (and you'll need Nomex underwear) :shock:

Al :wink:


Then keep on coating. :mrgreen:
Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)

User avatar
beachcomber
Posts: 193
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:10 pm
Location: Redditch UK and Reichenau Saxony
Contact:

Postby beachcomber » Fri Apr 10, 2015 8:18 am

I come from a day job involved with the design and manufacture of replica sports cars - we used heat shielding for a number of applications where heat transfer [ GRP bodies ] might have been an issue. This was especially useful when exhaust parts ran through a tight / enclosed space.

However, on the minus side - the non radiated heat [ especially from the exhausts ] has to go somewhere ?

I'm presuming exiting at the rear of the engine / box. On the move no problem [?], but there was another consideration when stationary - heat sink.

Has this ever been an issue ?

A couple of Oilhead projects I'm currently involved with will be using a belly pan and I'd like to be aware of any issues that might arise.

I always try to seek out the combined knowledge gained by speciality forums and hope you guys will pitch in. :lol:
"if at first you don't succeed - you've already been a failure once"

User avatar
HerrFlick
Posts: 393
Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2012 7:25 am
Location: Brisbane, Australia.

Postby HerrFlick » Fri Apr 10, 2015 1:07 pm

beachcomber wrote:I come from a day job involved with the design and manufacture of replica sports cars - we used heat shielding for a number of applications where heat transfer [ GRP bodies ] might have been an issue. This was especially useful when exhaust parts ran through a tight / enclosed space.

However, on the minus side - the non radiated heat [ especially from the exhausts ] has to go somewhere ?

I'm presuming exiting at the rear of the engine / box. On the move no problem [?], but there was another consideration when stationary - heat sink.

Has this ever been an issue ?

A couple of Oilhead projects I'm currently involved with will be using a belly pan and I'd like to be aware of any issues that might arise.

I always try to seek out the combined knowledge gained by speciality forums and hope you guys will pitch in. :lol:



Hi Beachcomber.

I have an 1100S and in warm weather, heat soak is definitely a problem. And btw I found the same on an R1200GS on a long trip in hot weather.

Re my '11S': warm weather here is above 25C, but at 28-30C upwards in slow traffic: engine gets rattly (LHS chain tensioner) and fuelling accuracy goes way off: popping, farting, erratic low throttle response.

I traced the latter (on the R12 as well) to the location of the intake air temp sensors: tucked in the airbox, central to all the engine heat, and the higher the temp the leaner the mixture. Various aftermarket fixes available.

BUT BUT ... as for oil temps ... OMG ... yes, the '11S' has an oil cooler but with no fans! Give me a break, BMW! They must poresume that every rider has access to ze autobahn undt will straight away ride at 200kph zo vy veell zey need ze coolink fanz ya?

When I arrive home on a 'warm' day, with the engine sounding a bit rattly, I find the oil cooler temp to be 110 - 120 C.

A few days ago, with oil cooler temp showing 98C, I lowered a thermocouple sensor into the engine via the oil filler opening and got readings of 113-115C. The implication being that when the oil cooler temps were say 110C, then the true oil temp might well be 130C+. Very scary thought.

Were I in your shoes I would:

- headers: ceramic coat, inside and out, with thermal barrier coating, TBC, to direct exhaust heat to the rear.

- heads: TBC coat intake and exh ports, as well as combustion chamber roof. Keeps heat moving thru the exhaust system and out.

- piston crowns: TBC coat, and then coat piston skirts with low-friction coating: reduces heat uptake and heat generation.

- fit industrial strength cooling fans to oil cooler. Maybe fit a bigger oil cooler. (In progress now on my "11S").

Re the ECU air intake temp sensor: perhaps level off it's temp response at say 25C, after which the engine will receive an apparently richer, cooling, mixture.

Over to you BC.

Cheers.

HF.

BTW: I have taken action re the rattly LH cam chain tensioner. See my next post on oil viscosity.
Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)

User avatar
Taz
Posts: 385
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 11:26 pm
Location: Cheshire

Update

Postby Taz » Sat May 02, 2015 6:38 pm

By way of an update, Paul ( das bike u1100s ) is having his belly pan painted at a place in Tatsfield. He can advise on the outcome.

I was going to use this company but transport difficulties got in the way so I plant to use a company in Congleton, Cheshire. I will post pictures of the outcome.

I had stickers made by Leek Signs who only charged £20 a set. Details available if anyone wants them.
Taz

R1250RS

So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?

User avatar
beachcomber
Posts: 193
Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:10 pm
Location: Redditch UK and Reichenau Saxony
Contact:

Postby beachcomber » Sun May 03, 2015 2:28 pm

HerrFlick wrote:
beachcomber wrote:I come from a day job involved with the design and manufacture of replica sports cars - we used heat shielding for a number of applications where heat transfer [ GRP bodies ] might have been an issue. This was especially useful when exhaust parts ran through a tight / enclosed space.

However, on the minus side - the non radiated heat [ especially from the exhausts ] has to go somewhere ?

I'm presuming exiting at the rear of the engine / box. On the move no problem [?], but there was another consideration when stationary - heat sink.

Has this ever been an issue ?

A couple of Oilhead projects I'm currently involved with will be using a belly pan and I'd like to be aware of any issues that might arise.

I always try to seek out the combined knowledge gained by speciality forums and hope you guys will pitch in. :lol:



Hi Beachcomber.

I have an 1100S and in warm weather, heat soak is definitely a problem. And btw I found the same on an R1200GS on a long trip in hot weather.

Re my '11S': warm weather here is above 25C, but at 28-30C upwards in slow traffic: engine gets rattly (LHS chain tensioner) and fuelling accuracy goes way off: popping, farting, erratic low throttle response.

I traced the latter (on the R12 as well) to the location of the intake air temp sensors: tucked in the airbox, central to all the engine heat, and the higher the temp the leaner the mixture. Various aftermarket fixes available.

BUT BUT ... as for oil temps ... OMG ... yes, the '11S' has an oil cooler but with no fans! Give me a break, BMW! They must poresume that every rider has access to ze autobahn undt will straight away ride at 200kph zo vy veell zey need ze coolink fanz ya?

When I arrive home on a 'warm' day, with the engine sounding a bit rattly, I find the oil cooler temp to be 110 - 120 C.

A few days ago, with oil cooler temp showing 98C, I lowered a thermocouple sensor into the engine via the oil filler opening and got readings of 113-115C. The implication being that when the oil cooler temps were say 110C, then the true oil temp might well be 130C+. Very scary thought.

Were I in your shoes I would:

- headers: ceramic coat, inside and out, with thermal barrier coating, TBC, to direct exhaust heat to the rear.

- heads: TBC coat intake and exh ports, as well as combustion chamber roof. Keeps heat moving thru the exhaust system and out.

- piston crowns: TBC coat, and then coat piston skirts with low-friction coating: reduces heat uptake and heat generation.

- fit industrial strength cooling fans to oil cooler. Maybe fit a bigger oil cooler. (In progress now on my "11S").

Re the ECU air intake temp sensor: perhaps level off it's temp response at say 25C, after which the engine will receive an apparently richer, cooling, mixture.

Over to you BC.

Cheers.

HF.

BTW: I have taken action re the rattly LH cam chain tensioner. See my next post on oil viscosity.


Thanx for the informative response HF.

You've reinforced my own thinking re: heat sink - I am going to assume it COULD be an issue and swerve it in the design of the belly pan.

Your other observations have been duly noted - many thanx
"if at first you don't succeed - you've already been a failure once"


Return to “Boxerbanter”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 288 guests