Has anyone replaced the silver heat shielding inside the belly pan of a BCR and if so what did you use ?
Thanks.
Heat Shielding in Belly Pan
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Heat Shielding in Belly Pan
Taz
R1250RS
So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?
R1250RS
So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?
Ebay is your friend.
I got a sheet off e-bay a while ago - sticks on fine.
Something like this, but perhaps there are better prices?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAT-SHIELD-F ... 5d523f4a45
Al
I got a sheet off e-bay a while ago - sticks on fine.
Something like this, but perhaps there are better prices?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAT-SHIELD-F ... 5d523f4a45
Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Heat Shielding
Thank you for the suggestions. I found a similar matting on ebay which will hopefully do the job.
Belly pan, pillion seat cover and rear tail surround off for repaint to remove the scratches from the previous owner's 'tender loving care'.
Belly pan, pillion seat cover and rear tail surround off for repaint to remove the scratches from the previous owner's 'tender loving care'.
Taz
R1250RS
So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?
R1250RS
So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?
heat shield
when replacing mine i found that using a 1inch paint brush to smooth the shielding in works a treat
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- Location: London
- beachcomber
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:10 pm
- Location: Redditch UK and Reichenau Saxony
- Contact:
I come from a day job involved with the design and manufacture of replica sports cars - we used heat shielding for a number of applications where heat transfer [ GRP bodies ] might have been an issue. This was especially useful when exhaust parts ran through a tight / enclosed space.
However, on the minus side - the non radiated heat [ especially from the exhausts ] has to go somewhere ?
I'm presuming exiting at the rear of the engine / box. On the move no problem [?], but there was another consideration when stationary - heat sink.
Has this ever been an issue ?
A couple of Oilhead projects I'm currently involved with will be using a belly pan and I'd like to be aware of any issues that might arise.
I always try to seek out the combined knowledge gained by speciality forums and hope you guys will pitch in.
However, on the minus side - the non radiated heat [ especially from the exhausts ] has to go somewhere ?
I'm presuming exiting at the rear of the engine / box. On the move no problem [?], but there was another consideration when stationary - heat sink.
Has this ever been an issue ?
A couple of Oilhead projects I'm currently involved with will be using a belly pan and I'd like to be aware of any issues that might arise.
I always try to seek out the combined knowledge gained by speciality forums and hope you guys will pitch in.
"if at first you don't succeed - you've already been a failure once"
beachcomber wrote:I come from a day job involved with the design and manufacture of replica sports cars - we used heat shielding for a number of applications where heat transfer [ GRP bodies ] might have been an issue. This was especially useful when exhaust parts ran through a tight / enclosed space.
However, on the minus side - the non radiated heat [ especially from the exhausts ] has to go somewhere ?
I'm presuming exiting at the rear of the engine / box. On the move no problem [?], but there was another consideration when stationary - heat sink.
Has this ever been an issue ?
A couple of Oilhead projects I'm currently involved with will be using a belly pan and I'd like to be aware of any issues that might arise.
I always try to seek out the combined knowledge gained by speciality forums and hope you guys will pitch in.
Hi Beachcomber.
I have an 1100S and in warm weather, heat soak is definitely a problem. And btw I found the same on an R1200GS on a long trip in hot weather.
Re my '11S': warm weather here is above 25C, but at 28-30C upwards in slow traffic: engine gets rattly (LHS chain tensioner) and fuelling accuracy goes way off: popping, farting, erratic low throttle response.
I traced the latter (on the R12 as well) to the location of the intake air temp sensors: tucked in the airbox, central to all the engine heat, and the higher the temp the leaner the mixture. Various aftermarket fixes available.
BUT BUT ... as for oil temps ... OMG ... yes, the '11S' has an oil cooler but with no fans! Give me a break, BMW! They must poresume that every rider has access to ze autobahn undt will straight away ride at 200kph zo vy veell zey need ze coolink fanz ya?
When I arrive home on a 'warm' day, with the engine sounding a bit rattly, I find the oil cooler temp to be 110 - 120 C.
A few days ago, with oil cooler temp showing 98C, I lowered a thermocouple sensor into the engine via the oil filler opening and got readings of 113-115C. The implication being that when the oil cooler temps were say 110C, then the true oil temp might well be 130C+. Very scary thought.
Were I in your shoes I would:
- headers: ceramic coat, inside and out, with thermal barrier coating, TBC, to direct exhaust heat to the rear.
- heads: TBC coat intake and exh ports, as well as combustion chamber roof. Keeps heat moving thru the exhaust system and out.
- piston crowns: TBC coat, and then coat piston skirts with low-friction coating: reduces heat uptake and heat generation.
- fit industrial strength cooling fans to oil cooler. Maybe fit a bigger oil cooler. (In progress now on my "11S").
Re the ECU air intake temp sensor: perhaps level off it's temp response at say 25C, after which the engine will receive an apparently richer, cooling, mixture.
Over to you BC.
Cheers.
HF.
BTW: I have taken action re the rattly LH cam chain tensioner. See my next post on oil viscosity.
Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)
Update
By way of an update, Paul ( das bike u1100s ) is having his belly pan painted at a place in Tatsfield. He can advise on the outcome.
I was going to use this company but transport difficulties got in the way so I plant to use a company in Congleton, Cheshire. I will post pictures of the outcome.
I had stickers made by Leek Signs who only charged £20 a set. Details available if anyone wants them.
I was going to use this company but transport difficulties got in the way so I plant to use a company in Congleton, Cheshire. I will post pictures of the outcome.
I had stickers made by Leek Signs who only charged £20 a set. Details available if anyone wants them.
Taz
R1250RS
So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?
R1250RS
So when is this 'Old enough to know better' supposed to kick in?
- beachcomber
- Posts: 193
- Joined: Tue Mar 17, 2015 6:10 pm
- Location: Redditch UK and Reichenau Saxony
- Contact:
HerrFlick wrote:beachcomber wrote:I come from a day job involved with the design and manufacture of replica sports cars - we used heat shielding for a number of applications where heat transfer [ GRP bodies ] might have been an issue. This was especially useful when exhaust parts ran through a tight / enclosed space.
However, on the minus side - the non radiated heat [ especially from the exhausts ] has to go somewhere ?
I'm presuming exiting at the rear of the engine / box. On the move no problem [?], but there was another consideration when stationary - heat sink.
Has this ever been an issue ?
A couple of Oilhead projects I'm currently involved with will be using a belly pan and I'd like to be aware of any issues that might arise.
I always try to seek out the combined knowledge gained by speciality forums and hope you guys will pitch in.
Hi Beachcomber.
I have an 1100S and in warm weather, heat soak is definitely a problem. And btw I found the same on an R1200GS on a long trip in hot weather.
Re my '11S': warm weather here is above 25C, but at 28-30C upwards in slow traffic: engine gets rattly (LHS chain tensioner) and fuelling accuracy goes way off: popping, farting, erratic low throttle response.
I traced the latter (on the R12 as well) to the location of the intake air temp sensors: tucked in the airbox, central to all the engine heat, and the higher the temp the leaner the mixture. Various aftermarket fixes available.
BUT BUT ... as for oil temps ... OMG ... yes, the '11S' has an oil cooler but with no fans! Give me a break, BMW! They must poresume that every rider has access to ze autobahn undt will straight away ride at 200kph zo vy veell zey need ze coolink fanz ya?
When I arrive home on a 'warm' day, with the engine sounding a bit rattly, I find the oil cooler temp to be 110 - 120 C.
A few days ago, with oil cooler temp showing 98C, I lowered a thermocouple sensor into the engine via the oil filler opening and got readings of 113-115C. The implication being that when the oil cooler temps were say 110C, then the true oil temp might well be 130C+. Very scary thought.
Were I in your shoes I would:
- headers: ceramic coat, inside and out, with thermal barrier coating, TBC, to direct exhaust heat to the rear.
- heads: TBC coat intake and exh ports, as well as combustion chamber roof. Keeps heat moving thru the exhaust system and out.
- piston crowns: TBC coat, and then coat piston skirts with low-friction coating: reduces heat uptake and heat generation.
- fit industrial strength cooling fans to oil cooler. Maybe fit a bigger oil cooler. (In progress now on my "11S").
Re the ECU air intake temp sensor: perhaps level off it's temp response at say 25C, after which the engine will receive an apparently richer, cooling, mixture.
Over to you BC.
Cheers.
HF.
BTW: I have taken action re the rattly LH cam chain tensioner. See my next post on oil viscosity.
Thanx for the informative response HF.
You've reinforced my own thinking re: heat sink - I am going to assume it COULD be an issue and swerve it in the design of the belly pan.
Your other observations have been duly noted - many thanx
"if at first you don't succeed - you've already been a failure once"
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