Handling Problems & shaft movement
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Handling Problems & shaft movement
At present my S handles very poorly and considerably worse than my previous RS.
I have put this down to the front tyre requires replacing and there is movement in the rear shaft.
The bike wobbles at speed and on gentle sweepers gives my sphincter a serious workout where previously the RS would cruise round.
This came to light at the weekend when I had to check and double check the complete bike. My only concern was the shaft movement at the large rubber boot. There is slight movement in all directions, thus I am assuming a bearing or worn bush. Any assistance on the items below would be much appreciated.
1. Will this movement translate as bad handling?, is this possibly my problem?
2. Are there bushes and or bearings in there?
3. Is it a big job to replace and what degree of difficulty?
4. Is the role of the rubber boot to keep grease in or duct out, or both? and should there have been grease around this area? (NB RS had 50k+ miles and not a drop of oil at the boot)
5. Can anyone advise of a decent mechanic in central Scotland (Glasgow South East'ish). I heard of a chap over at Milton of Campsie/Lennoxtown somewhere who does Guzzi's too, anyone know him?
To me the above and the other minor elements like the front spindle pinch bolts being seized and one was not holding any pressure (spindle came out after removing only one!) reiterates my feelings on bikes with full dealer service history. P!sh! (This bike has a FSH from BMW) Two serious flaws on a recently MOT'd machine.
Thanks
I have put this down to the front tyre requires replacing and there is movement in the rear shaft.
The bike wobbles at speed and on gentle sweepers gives my sphincter a serious workout where previously the RS would cruise round.
This came to light at the weekend when I had to check and double check the complete bike. My only concern was the shaft movement at the large rubber boot. There is slight movement in all directions, thus I am assuming a bearing or worn bush. Any assistance on the items below would be much appreciated.
1. Will this movement translate as bad handling?, is this possibly my problem?
2. Are there bushes and or bearings in there?
3. Is it a big job to replace and what degree of difficulty?
4. Is the role of the rubber boot to keep grease in or duct out, or both? and should there have been grease around this area? (NB RS had 50k+ miles and not a drop of oil at the boot)
5. Can anyone advise of a decent mechanic in central Scotland (Glasgow South East'ish). I heard of a chap over at Milton of Campsie/Lennoxtown somewhere who does Guzzi's too, anyone know him?
To me the above and the other minor elements like the front spindle pinch bolts being seized and one was not holding any pressure (spindle came out after removing only one!) reiterates my feelings on bikes with full dealer service history. P!sh! (This bike has a FSH from BMW) Two serious flaws on a recently MOT'd machine.
Thanks
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- Captain
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You have some taper rollers in the rear shaft pivot that are prone to wear if not regularly maintained. Also worth checking the swinging arm bearings. They can be adjusted and regreased if they're not too worn but you'll have to have a look at them. Dealers should keep these bearings properly adjusted.
Hi Craig,
Sorry to hear about the problem to your bike. Tom (a fellow trixter) lives in Dunfermline, he used to be an engineer with Triumph. He is good with a spanner. I'll give him a call, see if we can sort something out.
I know you only just bought the 'S' maybe you could get it looked at on warranty.
Andrew
Sorry to hear about the problem to your bike. Tom (a fellow trixter) lives in Dunfermline, he used to be an engineer with Triumph. He is good with a spanner. I'll give him a call, see if we can sort something out.
I know you only just bought the 'S' maybe you could get it looked at on warranty.
Andrew
A man can fall many times in life but is never a failure until he refuses to get up
- Darth_1100S
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Having looked at all the previous posts on this matter I had almost given in to taking the machine to the dealer.
However a ray of light was offered from JasonM, who has advised that the bearings may become slightly loose and a simple adjustment may be carried at the rear.
This I have done and the rear wheel movement has ceased. Thanks JasonM. I can't stress enough the ease of removal when heat was applied, maybe these manuals are good for something
Test drive proved an improvement, but shall change tyres and have both wheels balanced before fettling with anything else and shall look forward to the handling I expected from this machine. Thanks again
However a ray of light was offered from JasonM, who has advised that the bearings may become slightly loose and a simple adjustment may be carried at the rear.
This I have done and the rear wheel movement has ceased. Thanks JasonM. I can't stress enough the ease of removal when heat was applied, maybe these manuals are good for something

Test drive proved an improvement, but shall change tyres and have both wheels balanced before fettling with anything else and shall look forward to the handling I expected from this machine. Thanks again
No problemo - glad you saved yourself a few quid too!craigtvw wrote:Having looked at all the previous posts on this matter I had almost given in to taking the machine to the dealer.
However a ray of light was offered from JasonM, who has advised that the bearings may become slightly loose and a simple adjustment may be carried at the rear.
This I have done and the rear wheel movement has ceased. Thanks JasonM. I can't stress enough the ease of removal when heat was applied, maybe these manuals are good for something![]()
Test drive proved an improvement, but shall change tyres and have both wheels balanced before fettling with anything else and shall look forward to the handling I expected from this machine. Thanks again
Jason
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Craig, just a word of warning mate, keep an eye on the play and the function of the paralever bearing. Taking up the slack is only a quick fix, it WILL eventually go completely - they all do! When I pulled mine apart it wasn't worn, the bearing cage had actually broken up (13k). The bearings are very small for the job they do. In fact I'd rip it apart to see what state they're in if I were you. It makes a hell of a difference to the handling (and comfort) when you have new ones in there
When you have to replace them give me a yell before you start and I'll give you details of how to do them (painlessly) so you wont have trouble lining the shaft up when you put it back together. On the up side it's a very easy job to do, if you're capable of tightening them you should be able to replace them
Cheers - Dave
When you have to replace them give me a yell before you start and I'll give you details of how to do them (painlessly) so you wont have trouble lining the shaft up when you put it back together. On the up side it's a very easy job to do, if you're capable of tightening them you should be able to replace them
Cheers - Dave

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
Know what you're saying Mr D - but they could last 70k like mine did before they were changed. Same as you then - completely f@cked and cages destroyed.Darth_1100S wrote:Craig, just a word of warning mate, keep an eye on the play and the function of the paralever bearing. Taking up the slack is only a quick fix, it WILL eventually go completely - they all do! When I pulled mine apart it wasn't worn, the bearing cage had actually broken up (13k). The bearings are very small for the job they do. In fact I'd rip it apart to see what state they're in if I were you. It makes a hell of a difference to the handling (and comfort) when you have new ones in there
When you have to replace them give me a yell before you start and I'll give you details of how to do them (painlessly) so you wont have trouble lining the shaft up when you put it back together. On the up side it's a very easy job to do, if you're capable of tightening them you should be able to replace them
Cheers - Dave
Jason
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In my experience Jason your 70k is the exception that "proves the rule" Most are shagged by 20k. Certainly if they need adjusting now they'll need replacing shortly. All I'm saying to Craig is to keep an eye on them, in the interest of safety. Up to him if he follows the advice or not...!
I've seen these bearing go with as little as 7k on the clock
Dave
I've seen these bearing go with as little as 7k on the clock
Dave

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
Flippin heck - 7k - they must have been riding it over ploughed fieldsDarth_1100S wrote:In my experience Jason your 70k is the exception that "proves the rule" Most are shagged by 20k. Certainly if they need adjusting now they'll need replacing shortly. All I'm saying to Craig is to keep an eye on them, in the interest of safety. Up to him if he follows the advice or not...!
I've seen these bearing go with as little as 7k on the clock
Dave

Jason
you have all managed to convince me to change the bearings anyway. I'm due for a Euro trip in late august and want the bike to be tip top in all areas.
I've found a local BMW trained mechanic who won't be scared to take it out to the levels I have been just to prove the bike is "sorted".
In general, the handling (still blaming the tyres, but shall change ASAP as I have two continentals (£125 delivered
) ready to fit), must be improved and the engine is very "vibey" anything over say 4500RPM on the MWay. Thus valve gaps & throttle balance coming.
Experienced what I could only describe as a power wobble whilst full throttle on the wet straight in 5th from about 75.
98bhp and a wobble, surely not? Again I shall put down to worn tyre profiles with a flattening rear and "V" front.
As for the bearings, does anyone have a list from Motobins/Motorworks for the complete kit of goodies?
thanks
I've found a local BMW trained mechanic who won't be scared to take it out to the levels I have been just to prove the bike is "sorted".
In general, the handling (still blaming the tyres, but shall change ASAP as I have two continentals (£125 delivered

Experienced what I could only describe as a power wobble whilst full throttle on the wet straight in 5th from about 75.

As for the bearings, does anyone have a list from Motobins/Motorworks for the complete kit of goodies?
thanks
I think you just need the 2 bearings - same both sides - about £11+VAT each if memory servescraigtvw wrote:you have all managed to convince me to change the bearings anyway. I'm due for a Euro trip in late august and want the bike to be tip top in all areas.
I've found a local BMW trained mechanic who won't be scared to take it out to the levels I have been just to prove the bike is "sorted".
In general, the handling (still blaming the tyres, but shall change ASAP as I have two continentals (£125 delivered) ready to fit), must be improved and the engine is very "vibey" anything over say 4500RPM on the MWay. Thus valve gaps & throttle balance coming.
Experienced what I could only describe as a power wobble whilst full throttle on the wet straight in 5th from about 75.98bhp and a wobble, surely not? Again I shall put down to worn tyre profiles with a flattening rear and "V" front.
As for the bearings, does anyone have a list from Motobins/Motorworks for the complete kit of goodies?
thanks
Jason