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removing grips r1100s
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:20 pm
by masha
Any tips of links to exploded view of dismantling the grip assembly. I have some heated grips I want to retro-fit with my own electrics but really need to get grips and the hard-plastic inner-tube they sit on. I don't have a workshop manual but was wondering if anyone does to explain easily how these components come apart (if indeed they do).
M
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 9:19 pm
by BlueBoxer
Does this help? It's for a 1999 model.
left
right
Steve
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:31 pm
by masha
excellent thanks - just what I was looking for
superb
ta very much
M
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 10:32 pm
by cc mac
If you are only changing the grip do you really have to drain the clutch?
Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:22 am
by masha
I hope not - armed with the excellent exploded diagram from BlueBoxer I will have a look at just the grips this w/e.
Tinkering with them I did take the top off the brake reserviour with the bars on lock and lost a bit of fluid - good example of why I need a manual to find out what I'm doing before I do it (R1100 is quite different in its engineering to my former Honda VTR)!
I must get a manual Do Haynes make one? or what is the best source of electronic manual on the web to buy?
M
manual on cd
Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 8:45 am
by bluemanc100
I bought a cd manual off ebay for my GS, couple of quid and a BMW manual copy.
Had the Clymer for my last 1100s very comrehensive too... should've kept that me thinks, I let it go with the last BCR
Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 1:45 pm
by BlueBoxer
For a R1100s manual, try looking
here 
Steve
Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 2:51 pm
by Blackal
I changed the brake master piston on my BCR............... What a job!
You'd think that they would size the piston spring to go through the banjo fitting hole (so that with the banjo removed - there is no spring pressure on the piston, and the circlip that backs up the piston would go in easy).............. but no - you need 2 pairs of hands to do the job
after making no progress for about an hour............... the circlip pops in!
Getting into the gubbins is a bit of trial and error, even with the diagram - but you end up with a lot more dismantled than you ever thought possible.
Al
Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 7:44 pm
by nab 301
masha wrote:I must get a manual Do Haynes make one?
M
http://www.haynes.com/products/sfID1/8/ ... ductID/328
3466 is the Haynes part # but the s is really only an afterthought and the Bmw cd is probably better.