www.boxertrix.com

Anybody thinking of buying the above item off ebay (search R1100S) then just a friendly warning that the bolts in question appear to be made out off soft cheese .

Recently got around to fitting same to find that three bolts did not have a deep enough recess to take an allen key and several of the others appeared to deform around the allen key when the correct torque was applied. Needless to say I decided to hastily remove these before the Loctite went off.

So now I am back where I started with plated bolts and £10 out of pocket.

Does anyone know of a good supplier of high quality stainless steel button head fixings suitable for replacing the OE items??

Mine had poorly stamped socket heads too, I had to use torx keys on them to get a good fit.
I was concerned enough to put paint stripes on the heads after, in case they move.

Mine are still in but they are on remand.

"A2 is not recommended as a substitute for high tensile" as other ads say.

Think I'd be tempted to remove them right now

Reason is - the longer they are in............ the higher torque you'll need to remove them.

If the sockets are deforming now - they ain't gonna get stronger as time passes, that's for sure.

Al

Hi, try www.inoxgrp.co.uk

Its a supplier run by bikers for bikers.

Cheers, cobbster

Thanks for the 'heads up' Nu2. I was considering getting some of them ........ not now though!

Blackal wrote:Think I'd be tempted to remove them right now

Reason is - the longer they are in............ the higher torque you'll need to remove them.

If the sockets are deforming now - they ain't gonna get stronger as time passes, that's for sure.

Al

Al
I obviously did'nt explain very well but I removed the lot (well the RH side anyway as that was all I had done) straight away and put the old uns back in. Piss poor finish but at least I know they are correct.

Chobbler - not sure I'd have gone down that route as Blackal says, the longer they're in !!!!

Nu2beemers wrote:

Blackal wrote:Think I'd be tempted to remove them right now

Reason is - the longer they are in............ the higher torque you'll need to remove them.

If the sockets are deforming now - they ain't gonna get stronger as time passes, that's for sure.

Al

Al
I obviously did'nt explain very well but I removed the lot (well the RH side anyway as that was all I had done) straight away and put the old uns back in. Piss poor finish but at least I know they are correct.

Chobbler - not sure I'd have gone down that route as Blackal says, the longer they're in !!!!

Sorry - lost in translation.............. my comment was for Chobbler

Al

Blackal wrote:

Nu2beemers wrote:

Blackal wrote:Think I'd be tempted to remove them right now

Reason is - the longer they are in............ the higher torque you'll need to remove them.

If the sockets are deforming now - they ain't gonna get stronger as time passes, that's for sure.

Al

Al
I obviously did'nt explain very well but I removed the lot (well the RH side anyway as that was all I had done) straight away and put the old uns back in. Piss poor finish but at least I know they are correct.

Chobbler - not sure I'd have gone down that route as Blackal says, the longer they're in !!!!

Sorry - lost in translation.............. my comment was for Chobbler

Al

soz

I put ss ones all over the bike i found great difficulty getting my front mudguard ones out in fact i did not, it was bad enough disc locking the front fender but having to drill out the ss studs and re tap was a pain -used about 12 hss drill bits (tungsten ones are crap better off using more of the cheaper ones cant think what my disc studs are like- nightmare -dont use ss in captive machine threads of dissimilar metal- trust me

When removing the original front disk bolts I gently heated them up with a blow torch to soften the lock tight.
Once removed I ran a tap down the treads to remove the excess lock tight - there was plenty.
Then fitted the SS bolts without a problem although cannot remember if I used lock tight on the threads or copperslip to stop them seazing up.

Steve

Nu2beemers wrote: Piss poor finish but at least I know they are correct.

Put the bolt in a vice - wire brush cup in the electric drill (use the higher speed if you have one) and polish up the head. They come up quite well!!

sandbar

Have to agree with Nu2beemers, made the mistake of buying the same off ebay and the hex socket on the first one deformed on tightening! Ought to return them and let supplier know they are shit.
Have had to stick with the stock item, at least I can trust to be able to remove them when I need to.
Does anyone supply the Torx type in the correct grade of SS (Type 431 - according to Inox)?

Steve W wrote:When removing the original front disk bolts I gently heated them up with a blow torch to soften the lock tight.
Once removed I ran a tap down the treads to remove the excess lock tight - there was plenty.
Then fitted the SS bolts without a problem although cannot remember if I used lock tight on the threads or copperslip to stop them seazing up.

Steve

If you get an old disk bolt, file a couple of slots up the thread lengthways, you can use it like a gentle tap to get the old threadlock out.
Sorry if I already said this...

We used to do the same to old spark plugs in very old premix two strokes to un-gum the threads... That's senile dimension for you

Spotted the same fella on ebay selling these bolts so decided to tell him (politly) about my experiences with his product.

Instant response apologising profusely and explaining how his supplier had let him down etc, etc and now his supply issue has been resolved he would be delighted to supply a set of new bolts or a provide a full refund Blimey, was'nt expecting that.

So I have opted for the new bolts (only paid £4.99 for the originals so hardly worth the refund) and we shall see what turns up.

I did warn him that a few friends might be contacting him in the near future so best you get in early while he's feeling generous.

I shall keep you posted