Tyres and tick-tickety noise ...

horse27 · Post by **horse27** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 5:48 pm

Hello

Just a quicky ...

Do Bridgestone BT-020s work well on the R1100S? I've always got on with them and hope they do.

And also, I get quite a lot of tappet tick-tickety noise from my engine ... mostly on slow decceleration it is very noticeable ... do they all do that, sir?

Thanks and merry bleeding xmas, Lee

ianc53 · Post by **ianc53** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:06 pm

There's a survey somewhere on here that showed 020's as the most popular choice which suggests they're OK. Certainly I've been happy with them, but tyre choice is a VERY personal thing

Cheers

Ian

Ade B · Post by **Ade B** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:31 pm

And also, I get quite a lot of tappet tick-tickety noise from my engine ... mostly on slow decceleration it is very noticeable ... do they all do that, sir?

Not as far as I am aware

Mine taps a lot at tick over from the LHS which is from a worn throttle body (apparently a common boxer trait) if you physically hold the body whilst the engine is running it goes away.

If the noise is on the overrun it could be related to the transmission?

When was your last valve adjustment and throttle balance?

When you say slow decceleration do you mean when you are deccelerating and travelling slowly or do you mean just backing off a bit.

No doubt someone will be able to provide more info..

Ade

BockingBandit · Post by **BockingBandit** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:05 pm

Lee,.. have a ride on mine for a few miles.. and then yours wil sound sweet as a nut. As for tyres.. stick a set of Metzler Z6's on it, .... 14,000 mile a pair, .. but then you've seen me ride like an old pussy.

RoLoo · Post by **RoLoo** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:33 pm

BockingBandit wrote:...as for tyres.. stick a set of Metzler Z6's on it...

+1

throttlemeister · Post by **throttlemeister** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:36 pm

Ade B wrote:
And also, I get quite a lot of tappet tick-tickety noise from my engine ... mostly on slow decceleration it is very noticeable ... do they all do that, sir?
Mine taps a lot at tick over from the LHS which is from a worn throttle body (apparently a common boxer trait) if you physically hold the body whilst the engine is running it goes away.

LHS is typically the cam chain tensioner that needs to be replaced.
RHS is typically the butterfly valve in the throttlebody rattling due to slack/wear.

horse27 · Post by **horse27** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:19 pm

Thanks again (I think) chaps ... I'll look up them there Z6s ... 14000 miles??? Did you send it somewhere in a container?

Not sure about a pussy, Geoff ... more of a cock

If you ride it anything like them Bandits (RIP) then I have to see it

I have done about 1500 miles since buying it from Vines as an approved used bike about a month ago (it's a 2002 BCR with 9500 miles BTW) so it got a "full" service then but whether that included a valve adjust and throttle balance I am not sure - just checked the schedule and it should have got a valve check, Bowden cable play adjusted and a sync too. So "assume" it was all done.

I'll check the throttle body tomorrow.

Hey, it's under warranty - what say I cane it for the year and see what happens? I'll keep you posted.

I did put a litre of oil in during the first 1000 miles thought which concerned me (even though I have owned a KTM in the past so shuold be immune to oil use worries

) - seems to have tailed off a bit since topping up with Halfords semi 10/40

Thanks again ... Lee.

horse27 · Post by **horse27** » Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:29 pm

PS: If you are still talking to me Geoff after my comment ... Z6s ... good in the wet and good feedback like 020s??? I am not bothered (well, within reason) about grip but need feedback and about 30 minutes notice before it lets go if that's OK ... and I get rained on a lot. Ta, Lee.

BockingBandit · Post by **BockingBandit** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:14 pm

Lee,.. Z6's feel fine in the wet, .. well.. a lot more capable than I feel in the wet. Don't get me wrong,.. they are a 'compromise tyre, and actually just like the BT020's. The only real bugger with them is that they tend to hug the ridges and lines in the road after about 8,000 or so miles, .. but maybe by that mileage.. a BT020 would be flashing it's canvas knickers at you.

horse27 · Post by **horse27** » Tue Dec 19, 2006 7:59 pm

Right, invested in a set of Z6s ... £140 + £6.95 delivery ... seems like a good deal to me. I'll let you know if they arrive and have any tread on them

sproggy · Post by **sproggy** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 11:24 am

throttlemeister wrote:LHS is typically the cam chain tensioner that needs to be replaced.
RHS is typically the butterfly valve in the throttlebody rattling due to slack/wear.

Didn't someone recently start selling a damper of some sort to fit to the RH butterfly to stop it rattling? Boxer Performance maybe?

I too have a rattle under 'slow deceleration' (i.e. in the last 1000-1500rpm before I pull the clutch in to stop/shift to neutral, typically in 1st or 2nd gear). It's worse when the engine's cold. I thought it was rocker end float so I adjusted that at the last service (horrible, fiddly job if you want to get it spot on) but it didn't make much difference. I think it's from the LHS of the engine but it never occured to me that the tensioner might be going at only 12k miles

Is there an easy way to verify this? (suspecting that the answer will be 'no'....)

Archie · Post by **Archie** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 12:08 pm

Just get some better ear plugs!!

throttlemeister · Post by **throttlemeister** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 2:25 pm

sproggy wrote:
throttlemeister wrote:LHS is typically the cam chain tensioner that needs to be replaced.
RHS is typically the butterfly valve in the throttlebody rattling due to slack/wear.
Didn't someone recently start selling a damper of some sort to fit to the RH butterfly to stop it rattling? Boxer Performance maybe?

I too have a rattle under 'slow deceleration' (i.e. in the last 1000-1500rpm before I pull the clutch in to stop/shift to neutral, typically in 1st or 2nd gear). It's worse when the engine's cold. I thought it was rocker end float so I adjusted that at the last service (horrible, fiddly job if you want to get it spot on) but it didn't make much difference. I think it's from the LHS of the engine but it never occured to me that the tensioner might be going at only 12k miles Is there an easy way to verify this? (suspecting that the answer will be 'no'....)

I saw that too somewhere, but can't remember where.

Re the tensioner: apparently there is a new tensioner that is different and better than the old one. What I have seen online, it is an easy job and shouldn't take more than one or two hours if you do it yourself. There is a picture tutorial somewhere on Pelican.

sproggy · Post by **sproggy** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 2:57 pm

Here you go - Boxer Design's 'Tickerkiller':

http://www.boxer-design.de/en/tickerkillren.htm

As for the tensioner thread on Pelican that'll probably take me ages to find so I'll look over Christmas..... I did find a mention of it, in that any tensioner you buy from BMW now is an improved type, not the inferior older type that's been superceded, but I don't know when the spec changed in factory builds. Mine's a 2002 and as it rattles I guess it has the older type.....

throttlemeister · Post by **throttlemeister** » Fri Dec 22, 2006 3:15 pm

Here you are: Replacing tensioner

The link in the start post of that thread to advrider is actually better.