fork leg and cross brace removal, any pit falls

iandunn1100ss · Post by **iandunn1100ss** » Fri Feb 10, 2006 11:43 pm

hi i want to remove these parts for either repaint or polishing and would like to know of any problem areas i may come cross along the way

winger · Post by **winger** » Sat Feb 11, 2006 8:42 am

After you've taken the plastic cover of,as daft as it sounds remember to put an allen key in the top when you undo the nut.

It's an odd size 21mm

When you actually take the ball joint of the bottom yoke,that can be real bad karma!!you'll either need a very deep,very big socket!!,or a good quality ajustable spanner or turn it upside in a vice,all three options require a lot of muscle or a long bar!!!

Boxadog 2000 · Post by **Boxadog 2000** » Sat Feb 11, 2006 8:51 am

Gently warm the lower fork brace to soften the Loctite on the ball joint first

iandunn1100ss · Post by **iandunn1100ss** » Sat Feb 11, 2006 9:23 am

why do i need to put an allen key in the top please. i must be missing something

gus · Post by **gus** » Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:10 am

Because its a ball joint and will turn with the nut.So you use the allen key to hold the joint whilst undoing the nut.
gus

Gromit · Post by **Gromit** » Sat Feb 11, 2006 10:13 am

gus wrote:Because its a ball joint and will turn with the nut.So you use the allen key to hold the joint whilst undoing the nut.
gus

What he said.

Pop the little plastic cover off the top of the joint and all will become clear.

Boxadog 2000 · Post by **Boxadog 2000** » Sat Feb 11, 2006 4:47 pm

Oh and by the way you will need a deep socket with the side machined out so that you can torq the ball joint up to the correct setting the cut out is to allow the hex key in to stop the ball joint turning.

And yes I do have one so give me a shout if you want to have a lend of it.

Jason M · Post by **Jason M** » Sun Feb 12, 2006 7:42 pm

Boxadog 2000 wrote:Oh and by the way you will need a deep socket with the side machined out so that you can torq the ball joint up to the correct setting the cut out is to allow the hex key in to stop the ball joint turning.

And yes I do have one so give me a shout if you want to have a lend of it.

Bob - I did mine by holding the nut with the 21mm (drop) open ended spanner and had a 7mm or whatever hex drive in the torque wrench. Same result whether you turn the nut or the allen key innit? And you can still turn either until the wrench clicks anyway.

Oh yea, and remember to slide the front spindle through when you are reassembling to get the whole lot lined up right

iandunn1100ss · Post by **iandunn1100ss** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:07 am

thanks for the helpful advice .the job is done i now have some very shiney forks and cross brace.

iandunn1100ss · Post by **iandunn1100ss** » Mon Feb 13, 2006 5:16 pm

i will try to load my first ever picture of my handy workhttp://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f377/ ... C00449.jpg

YouTube · Post by **Paul** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 9:33 am

Ian,

If you use the "Img" rather than "URL" tags, you can display the picture inline in your post:

iandunn1100ss · Post by **iandunn1100ss** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 10:14 am

Thanks for that it is a steap learning curve but i am getting there.