Anyone know any?
Having offered up and having been refused at least 20 times before the bugger's splines align and the UJ slips into the shaft, I was wondering if there are any tricks or marks that I should be looking for. I just keep rotating the UJ a couple of degrees and try again - offer it up then stick a long screwdriver through the paralever bearing holes to lift the shaft up and get the UJ/Shaft both in line with each other.
Seems an unnecessarily fiddly procedure to me
Jason
Shaft fitting tricks
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Darth_1100S
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Can't speak from experience Jason, but when I do mine (if i ever get round to it, this XJR of my lad's is a taking an age to complete!) I'm going to first of all mark the wheel hub in relation to the casing. Then I'll mark the shaft in relation to the bevel box casing before I pull it away from the bevel box input shaft. This will ensure that when I bring the two marks on the hub and casing together the splines on the shaft "should" fall into the same place as they did before I took it apart. That's the theory anyway! As I say I've not done it yet so someone else here will probably correct me.
I would imagine as well that it may an idea to get someone to help at the re-assembly stage as you'll not be able to see any alignment because you'll be working from the back when you're shoving the shaft back in.
Dave.
I would imagine as well that it may an idea to get someone to help at the re-assembly stage as you'll not be able to see any alignment because you'll be working from the back when you're shoving the shaft back in.
Dave.
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
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bigblackfalco
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Jason,it's a real pain.It's just down to luck.I have found it benificial to have 2 pairs of hands.One to lift and guide the bevel box,and the other with 2 screwdrivers.I have also left the bike in gear and inserted 2 wheel studs into the bevel box to aid turning and trying to get the bugger to line up!
It's also good to leave for a while,have a cup of tea,then go back to it later on.
Good luck!
Bailey.
It's also good to leave for a while,have a cup of tea,then go back to it later on.
Good luck!
Bailey.
Chears Boys
I did think of putting the UJ onto the shaft then fitting the UJ onto the bevel but that wouldn't guarentee the UJ spring clip on the bevel end would be on, and that wouldn't be good
Good tip about the bolts to rotate the UJ - I was using a screwdriver.
Got it on the first time and DOH - I'd forgot to put the inner paralever bearing on the bevel box (top tip - remember to put bearings in bevel BEFORE connecting the shaft - they'll go through the hole after on the outer bolt, but not the inner one. The first time I got a 'hit' on the third try HORAY, but the 2nd time was definately the 'come back later' stage like you said - I may have even used the C word, and it has to be bad for that to happen!
Anyway, got it back together and it went straight through the MOT today - not bad for a 90k bike. did get a 'warning' about the rear disk though - it's only about as thick as a cigarette paper at teh moment
jason
I did think of putting the UJ onto the shaft then fitting the UJ onto the bevel but that wouldn't guarentee the UJ spring clip on the bevel end would be on, and that wouldn't be good
Good tip about the bolts to rotate the UJ - I was using a screwdriver.
Got it on the first time and DOH - I'd forgot to put the inner paralever bearing on the bevel box (top tip - remember to put bearings in bevel BEFORE connecting the shaft - they'll go through the hole after on the outer bolt, but not the inner one. The first time I got a 'hit' on the third try HORAY, but the 2nd time was definately the 'come back later' stage like you said - I may have even used the C word, and it has to be bad for that to happen!
Anyway, got it back together and it went straight through the MOT today - not bad for a 90k bike. did get a 'warning' about the rear disk though - it's only about as thick as a cigarette paper at teh moment
jason
Mick - I'll give you a shout when I do the clutch, that would be a nice gentle introduction to an S in peices, and you can review my entry for the world swearing championship at the same timeMick Mac wrote:Jason,
You should have given me a shout, I'd have been glad to help and increase my limited knowledge of Ss at the same time!
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Darth_1100S
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Just finished putting everything back after changing the paralever bearings. The problem wasn't wear but a broken up bearing cradle on the adjustable side.
I had absolutely no problem at all getting the splines to line up. For future reference my method was as follows:
Before I started to take everyting apart I put the bike in gear. Then I marked the wheel hub in relation to the outer casing, and undid the reaction bar & pivot pins and pulled bevel box away. I then re-aligned the marks on the housing with the ones on the hub, and then marked the universal joint in relation to the bevel box housing. With everything marked thus I knew that when I came to put it back the splines would be as near as dammit lined up. I then levered off the joint from the spring clip in the bevel box shaft to clear the way for fitting the bearings. I had left the bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours and once the housing was heated up they dropped in no problem with a bit of help from a friendly block of wood.
I fitted the new bearings, then lined the marks up on the bevel box and aligned the marks on the universal joint with those on the Bevel box housing. Then a good wallop with a hide mallet got the u/j splines located firmly on the spring clip (the splines were treated to coating of moly spline grease first)
When it came to fitting the bevel box back, I found the drive shaft had dropped inside the swingarm. I could just get my fingers in to lift it enough
to start the splines sliding on. Because it had been all marked up I knew the splines were going to line up, as they had gone back in exactly the same postion as before. A quick waggle about and it was on - a doddle really!
Before I put the pivot pins in I lined up the bevel box in the holes using the old pins, just in case I damaged them on the way in. Then once they were both in I could remove one at a time - keeping the amount of alignment need to insert the new pins to a minimum. All I had to do then was pre-load the inner bearing, cover the threads of the pins with loctite and torque them up - job done. Easy peasy.
I've loads if other jobs to do while the bike's in bits, so won't be road testing it for a week or 2. When I do I'll let you know how it goes!
Dave.
BTW if anyone is doing the pivot bearings don't buy new pivot pins, my old ones are fine - I fitted the new ones just coz I'd bought 'em! If anybody wants the old ones you're welcome to them, just give me a shout.
I had absolutely no problem at all getting the splines to line up. For future reference my method was as follows:
Before I started to take everyting apart I put the bike in gear. Then I marked the wheel hub in relation to the outer casing, and undid the reaction bar & pivot pins and pulled bevel box away. I then re-aligned the marks on the housing with the ones on the hub, and then marked the universal joint in relation to the bevel box housing. With everything marked thus I knew that when I came to put it back the splines would be as near as dammit lined up. I then levered off the joint from the spring clip in the bevel box shaft to clear the way for fitting the bearings. I had left the bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours and once the housing was heated up they dropped in no problem with a bit of help from a friendly block of wood.
I fitted the new bearings, then lined the marks up on the bevel box and aligned the marks on the universal joint with those on the Bevel box housing. Then a good wallop with a hide mallet got the u/j splines located firmly on the spring clip (the splines were treated to coating of moly spline grease first)
When it came to fitting the bevel box back, I found the drive shaft had dropped inside the swingarm. I could just get my fingers in to lift it enough
to start the splines sliding on. Because it had been all marked up I knew the splines were going to line up, as they had gone back in exactly the same postion as before. A quick waggle about and it was on - a doddle really!
Before I put the pivot pins in I lined up the bevel box in the holes using the old pins, just in case I damaged them on the way in. Then once they were both in I could remove one at a time - keeping the amount of alignment need to insert the new pins to a minimum. All I had to do then was pre-load the inner bearing, cover the threads of the pins with loctite and torque them up - job done. Easy peasy.
I've loads if other jobs to do while the bike's in bits, so won't be road testing it for a week or 2. When I do I'll let you know how it goes!
Dave.
BTW if anyone is doing the pivot bearings don't buy new pivot pins, my old ones are fine - I fitted the new ones just coz I'd bought 'em! If anybody wants the old ones you're welcome to them, just give me a shout.
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
Beginners Luck DaveDarth_1100S wrote:Just finished putting everything back after changing the paralever bearings. The problem wasn't wear but a broken up bearing cradle on the adjustable side.
I had absolutely no problem at all getting the splines to line up. For future reference my method was as follows:
Before I started to take everyting apart I put the bike in gear. Then I marked the wheel hub in relation to the outer casing, and undid the reaction bar & pivot pins and pulled bevel box away. I then re-aligned the marks on the housing with the ones on the hub, and then marked the universal joint in relation to the bevel box housing. With everything marked thus I knew that when I came to put it back the splines would be as near as dammit lined up. I then levered off the joint from the spring clip in the bevel box shaft to clear the way for fitting the bearings. I had left the bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours and once the housing was heated up they dropped in no problem with a bit of help from a friendly block of wood.
I fitted the new bearings, then lined the marks up on the bevel box and aligned the marks on the universal joint with those on the Bevel box housing. Then a good wallop with a hide mallet got the u/j splines located firmly on the spring clip (the splines were treated to coating of moly spline grease first)
When it came to fitting the bevel box back, I found the drive shaft had dropped inside the swingarm. I could just get my fingers in to lift it enough
to start the splines sliding on. Because it had been all marked up I knew the splines were going to line up, as they had gone back in exactly the same postion as before. A quick waggle about and it was on - a doddle really!
Before I put the pivot pins in I lined up the bevel box in the holes using the old pins, just in case I damaged them on the way in. Then once they were both in I could remove one at a time - keeping the amount of alignment need to insert the new pins to a minimum. All I had to do then was pre-load the inner bearing, cover the threads of the pins with loctite and torque them up - job done. Easy peasy.
I've loads if other jobs to do while the bike's in bits, so won't be road testing it for a week or 2. When I do I'll let you know how it goes!
Dave.
BTW if anyone is doing the pivot bearings don't buy new pivot pins, my old ones are fine - I fitted the new ones just coz I'd bought 'em! If anybody wants the old ones you're welcome to them, just give me a shout.
Seriously though - that's good. Unfortunately it's not so easy if the diff has been to pieces
Ps - I hope you put 90k on the back before tightening the torque arm - no I didn't either but that's what they reccomend
Let us know how the rest goes
Jason
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Darth_1100S
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Cheeky git! 
And yes I did load up the back with one very overweight son! before tightening the torque arm. I don't think really it would have made much difference even if the diff had been apart Jason. As long as everything is marked up and put back in the right place in relation to everything else then the splines will line up every time! Maybe it's the Engineer in me eh? I always find the easiest way of doing things 
I will admit to one moment of stupidity though. I lost the the spacer from behind the wheel somewhere. I've had the garage upside down trying to find it - but no joy! In the end I made another one, bloody thing took me ages. Watch me find it on the bench in the morning!
Dave
And yes I did load up the back with one very overweight son! before tightening the torque arm. I don't think really it would have made much difference even if the diff had been apart Jason. As long as everything is marked up and put back in the right place in relation to everything else then the splines will line up every time! Maybe it's the Engineer in me eh? I always find the easiest way of doing things I will admit to one moment of stupidity though. I lost the the spacer from behind the wheel somewhere. I've had the garage upside down trying to find it - but no joy! In the end I made another one, bloody thing took me ages.
Watch me find it on the bench in the morning! Dave
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
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Darth_1100S
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Jason, I'm stripping the brakes, cleaning everything up and changing the fluid. The clutch has always been very heavy on my bike but it's got worse lately so I'm investigating that. I'm changing the front brake disc mounting bolts for stainless steel ones I got from Rob Vincent. I'm changing the fuel filter in the tank, and giving it a general service plus few other little jobs which need seeing to as well
I've also got to respray the front mudguard and hugger. When I bought the bike last year the previous owner had painted over the carbon fibre in yellow.....Not Mandarin - but 'orrble chuffin' yellow that didn't even match the bike
I sprayed them black as soon as I got the bike, because it was embarrasing to be seen out on it. The hugger has since been ravaged by road crap and stone chips and the front mudguard was the victim of a moment of stoopidity, when I left a disc lock on and tried to ride off.....I've since bought a Xena alarmed disc lock. I find one of the biggest problems with the 'S' is there's nowhere to carry a decent lock and chain.
I've got a to go to Edinburgh this week so I won't be able to get the bike finished 'til the week after.
Dave.
I've also got to respray the front mudguard and hugger. When I bought the bike last year the previous owner had painted over the carbon fibre in yellow.....Not Mandarin - but 'orrble chuffin' yellow that didn't even match the bike
I sprayed them black as soon as I got the bike, because it was embarrasing to be seen out on it. The hugger has since been ravaged by road crap and stone chips and the front mudguard was the victim of a moment of stoopidity, when I left a disc lock on and tried to ride off.....I've since bought a Xena alarmed disc lock. I find one of the biggest problems with the 'S' is there's nowhere to carry a decent lock and chain.I've got a to go to Edinburgh this week so I won't be able to get the bike finished 'til the week after.
Dave.
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.