Iv'e just been reading the RepRom for my R12S for hints on removing the front and rear shocks,
should be straightforward but it states that you should heat the rear shock bottom bolt to 100deg
before attenpting to loosen the bolt, is this right? has anyone not had to do this?
Thanks in advance of me heading out to buy a heat gun (more tools, yay )
Steve
Well-weathered leather
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware
MMMM Not tried it but I suspect that is because BMW use industrial strength Loctite on lots of Bolts - I would be tempted to try to undo it before spending the money on the heat gun - you could try one of those chefs blow lamps they are very controllable and have a smaller flame than the DIY ones.
There would appear to be a surfeit of prolixity and sesquipedalian content today please do not use a big word when a singularly un-loquacious and diminutive linguistic expression will satisfactorily accomplish the contemporary necessity
I've used my wife's superpower hairdryer before, worked perfectly. Probably not as hot as a proper heat gun, but you certainly wouldn't want to put your fingers near the blast for more than a second or two!
I suspect that the heat is to break down the thread sealant so it can easily be undone.
I have in the past just put a 3ft tube extension on the end of the socket breaker bar for more torque or used a paint stripping heat gun.
Also when you do the front, make sure you have the headstock of the bike strapped up to the rafters, or a bar under the cast frame extensions and onto two saw tresle's either side at the front, otherwise the bike collapses. Don't ask me how I know!
Oh and a block of wood and decent hydraulic jack under the sump, if you're doing it solo.
I didn't have to, but in hind-sight probably easier with a bit of heat & less risk of thread/screw-head damage. BMW use threadlock & is recommended for reassembly. I'd only use blue threadlock.
SP250 wrote:Steve
Also when you do the front, make sure you have the headstock of the bike strapped up to the rafters, or a bar under the cast frame extensions and onto two saw tresle's either side at the front, otherwise the bike collapses. Don't ask me how I know!
Oh and a block of wood and decent hydraulic jack under the sump, if you're doing it solo.
I have swapped the front one out without issue, using a bottle jack and piece of wood along with my ABBA stand, same setup as my old 1100S but that was 12 years ago (Gulp)
I will check out Julie's hairdrier before I invest in another tool for my collection.
Cheers all
Steve
Well-weathered leather
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware
I had no problems taking the rear shock out from my R12, used no heat just a good torx bit and decent ratchet. I have found from bitter experience not to use the first torx bit that seams to fit, the next one up is sometimes the right one!
Good advice above - to break the locktite on the bolt requires a large amount of torque and it would be really easy to round off the Torx drive head ( I so nearly did it to mine!) . I have heard rumours that you can actually strip the threads in the swing arm as well! My advice is to get a high quality socket, heat up the swing arm with an hot air gun (100 degree I think - maybe a steaming kettle under the retaining part of the swing arm?) Plus I think bmw say you should use anew bolt which I did
Definitely make sure the socket is truly located otherwise the soft head can round!
Okay chaps, so the above advice worked a treat, a combination of Julies hairdrier and a BFO
breaker bar had it off with little effort, but how do I get the bushing out? it seems as though its seized solid,
even after soaking it in plusgas all morning, I can't get it to budge! any ideas?
Steve
Well-weathered leather
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware
Hi Dave, its the bush that should come out with the bottom bolt, I guess it bridges the swingarm and the shock.
If i move the shock back and forth I can see the bush moving with it, but I cannot get it to move towards me.
Steve
Well-weathered leather
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware
i do seem to recall the bush being part of the shock and being tight within the swing arm and needed a bit of moving about before it would slide out with the shock - Are you saying the bolts is fully removed now? i think i might have taken the shock out more sideways and up but cant be sure. I dont think it came straight out downwards which looks like the natural way
Okay, all sorted, the RepRom shows a bush that follows the bolt and tells you to remove it,
but there is no removable bush, the shock is just a tight fit in the swingarm, a little gentle persuasion
moved the shock to the rear and then out. So now to drop the shocks into Kais suspension for a service
and a little open wallet surgery
Cheers All
Steve
Well-weathered leather
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware
)
