I will second that , I put a Front maxxis supermax on to replace a Pirelli Diablo Super Corsa. Could not tell the difference. Both were round and black too! My wallet did not take a hammering either. Me like.
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Chris Walker advocates the Maxxis and even advertises them in his dealership with a video of him riding with them.
I know it all about business but I don't think he will risk his reputation on dodgy tyres.
My R1200S had Maxxis fitted when I bought it, and they were absolutely fine for me. When they wore out (I can find the mileage the Maxxis did), I replaced them with PR2s, which again kept me upright and seemed to do a good job. I had fitted PR2s to the Aprilia Falco I had before the R12S, so felt confident in Michelin's.
I was having handling issues and my local BMW fixer (Ian Joyce at Grendon) recommended I replace the PR4s with Bridgestone T30 EVOs. Wow! What an improvement - but caution - I usually think "Wow!", when I fit new tyres. I recently improved further the handling by resetting the Ohlins suspension back to BMW recommendations.
So, for me, nowt wrong with the Maxxis - absolutely fine. I am liking the T30s I have on now - but they cost a bob or two.
EDIT: The Maxxis did 6,555* miles before I replaced them with PR2s (not PR4s as I first thought), and they did 9,850 before being persuaded to change to T30 EVOs - the PR2s didn't look bad to me, but I was persuaded they were past their best (I think, "sh1te", was the technical term he used.
* I believe the Maxxis were nearly new when I bought the R12S
ianbcr wrote:Grip fast, could be the old owner of your bike thought he would put a cheaper set of tyres on to sell the bike not realising how good the maxxis were.
I have the Maxxis Supermax on my track bike and they're decent. I've been told the reason they're cheap is they can't handle the number of heat cycles compared to bigger brands so they may go off sooner.
By Damoace's accounts our beemers would benefit from something a bit stiffer than the Maxxis tyres. On the Boxer Cup I've got Bridgestone S21s and they are absolutely brilliant. Again I've used them on track mainly (including a waterlogged Cadwell) and can't praise them highly enough.
2000 BMW R1150GS
2004 BMW R1100SS Boxer Cup Replica
2003 Yamaha R6 (trackday bike)
Went for a pair of metzlers RR got a good price I have started to strip bike down and before the new tyres go on going to get the wheels refurbished
Question
Have now removed discs what does the site recomend on disc bolts please are stainless any good or should I get the Bmw genuine ? As I am right in thinking these must be replaced.
I think BMW only recommend new disc bolts as they come with threadlock pre-applied ('microencapsulated', as they call it!). I can't see anything wrong with thoroughly cleaning the old bolts, making sure all the old stuff is removed, and then re-using after applying a small amount of the correct locking compound. They're not torqued to a ridiculously high figure, and they're not 'stretch' bolts. If the bolt heads are manky, you can clean them up with a Dremel and wire brush or similar, and then apply some wheel lacquer to them (not in the Torx recess though!) - I did mine like that, they still look like new a few years down the line.
Regarding stainless, you'll get opposing views! I believe more than a few have used them and are still here to tell us about it.....others will say you'll be signing your death warrant!
Expensive I know, but I've had Titanium disc bolts on my several of my bikes for years now and I'm still here too !!!
They look beyond lovely and are unsprung weight saving so you "double" your "perceived / imagined" performance gain
Check ProBolt, I'd recommend them.
milleplod wrote:I think BMW only recommend new disc bolts as they come with threadlock pre-applied ('microencapsulated', as they call it!). I can't see anything wrong with thoroughly cleaning the old bolts, making sure all the old stuff is removed, and then re-using after applying a small amount of the correct locking compound. They're not torqued to a ridiculously high figure, and they're not 'stretch' bolts. If the bolt heads are manky, you can clean them up with a Dremel and wire brush or similar, and then apply some wheel lacquer to them (not in the Torx recess though!) - I did mine like that, they still look like new a few years down the line.
Regarding stainless, you'll get opposing views! I believe more than a few have used them and are still here to tell us about it.....others will say you'll be signing your death warrant!
Pete
Good advice. the stock bmw disc bolts are far superior to any aftermarket ss stuff. I changed mine for ss when everyone was doing stupid stuff back in the day, questioned my decision to have shiny bright stuff almost immediately when fitting them. The bmw disc bolts may not look sexy and may have more mass than titanium but ffs it`s a boxer not a racing snake!
Chris
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.