www.boxertrix.com

Hi,

I have just bought myself a 1999 r1100s. I love the bike, but like with any bike I have had, I seek to get it back to near new condition over the next couple of years.

I bought the bike for a reduced price, due to a creaking coming from the final drive, but only once warmed up. This turned out to be the rear pivot bearings. Nice simple fix, and I would recommend motorworks for their great aftermarket bearing kit which includes grease nipples for maintenance.

I have since been through the mechanics of the bike, making sure all is tip top. Valve clearances, all oils and filters, new brake pads, alternator belt, front wheel bearing.

I also put metzler z8 interacts on, which first impressions are very good. Was tempted by Dunlop road smart 3 but went with a tried and tested tyre.

Now the important work has been done, I turn my head to the detail. First a good degrease and clean, too see what's left. The bike looks very respectable for it age, but after looking at others on this forum, it needs bringing up to those standards!

The first thing a noticed was the engine paint work. At low level it's poor, and partially missing. I have scoured this forum and see its a common trait. During the winter months I plan to re powder coat the frame, subframe and fork lowers. The shaft drive has signs of slight corrosion, but is liveable. But the main area is the bottom 3" of the engine, and the front of the cylinder heads.

Now I have explored several options of what I can do. Firstly is bead blasting and full re spray. But I was advised that the whole engine would need to be stripped and done in pieces. That would be a perfect better than factory finish, but for me, too expensive and labour consuming.
Asked about vapour blasting to a finish, but from what I have read, the alloy has a high content of something which makes it crust over and deteriorate.
My preferred option is a diy respray. There is a few good articles on this forum of riders doing just this. But I have a few questions. What prep would need to be done? Would I need to key the paint that's on with a scotch pad then clean and primer then paint? Or would it need fully stripping with nitro more? Also I'm struggling on what paint to use, I don't mind expensive paint, just a paint that I won't have too keep touching up.

Ah! Now to the next one!

Suspension! I am probably the only person on here that wants too keep the original! Partially down to cost I have to say. My rear shock was really rusty, but I have removed it, cleaned it up and got the preload working ok. But it simply lets the bike down, the spring is flaking and the body has surface rust. The front, I don't know about really! Seems to ride ok.
Here is my thoughts. A member on here called Colin has a front and rear original Showa units for sale. There from a mamola boxer cup. He has been superb in talking to me and offering me advice and supplying me with measurements. I really like these, has anyone put boxer cup shocks on a standard s before? Or foresee any problems?
My only other consideration was just changing the rear for a wilbers Eco line or a hagon shock. Leaving the front as standard. As I can't afford to do both, which I appreciate to be the proper way. Would this improve the bike, or simply create another problem by showing the front up? My feel is that the front shock is less important on these bikes, as the lack of dive takes the owness away from it, but I maybe totally wrong!

Finally! For now! Colin suggested a great mod would be to de cat. I have looked into this and it seems my only option is on eBay, an good price at about £130. But it's from china. First concerns are quality, has anyone seen one? Secondly, is the fact the adverts says I have to pay import fees etc. I don't know when, how, or how much! Would it get delivered, then I have to pay someone?

Thank you for your patience in reading through this! I do go on a bit!

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated, and I hope that this thread helps others.

Kind regards,

Richard Bowling

Hi. I know Colin, great guy. Just measure the rear torque arm. If it is 365mm between the holes then you'll be ok for putting the Sport suspension on.

The decat tube from China has been tried before. One of the guys who goes on track days with me has used it and it split. Only problem I have heard off. Nobody else who bought one has reported problems so far.

As far as painting a boxer engine goes. Well, not the easiest or the best results can be obtained unless total strip down (meaning separate bike from engine). Mask everything that should not get dirt in or painted over. You can take the engine front cover off and have this done separately, same to the cylinder rocker covers. Before you go ahead with the engine front cover get some 3-bond 1209 or similar (loctite 5900 or equivalent). I used the same stuff as Ducati also 3-bond. You need such a small amount that buying a tube is not worth it. Borrow, beg or steal. M6 screw are 9Nm, M8 are 20Nm torque. Screws can be touched up with paint. Push them through a cardboard so the heads sits at the top. Hammrite Smooth silver direct to rust spray is a good match. Pick it up from Halfords.

If you are a UKGSer subscriber then follow the link to give you an idea of what is involved in painting the engine.
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread ... t=blowzorn

To add to your suspension jobs. Check the dust seal around the tube. You will need to take the telelever off if you follow the manual to get the front shock off and you are going to do the paint on the fork tubes anyway. It is good practice to replace the seals and oil at that time. Not a massive job. The top of the tube that sticks out on the handle bar has got a vent valve under the plastic cover. Open this up when you take the forks apart. Since yours is a 99 bike I suspect you will have the plastic tube in there. If you plan to keep the tube then 170ml of SAE 10 oil or without the tube 470ml. The oil is only to lubricate the slider bushes. Just make sure that on assembly of the front fork assembly to the bike that once the forks are all done up and clamped in place to release any pressure in the fork with that vent valve and then close it.

viewtopic.php?t=12949&highlight=forks

http://www.largiader.com/articles/sforks/

If you don't go for Colin's shocks (which judging by the condition he keeps his bikes in will be immaculate) check on here for Ramshox - you get a discount for being on Boxertrix. Be interesting to see how the re paint goes. I have the same problems on my BCR. Not sure whether to do the manky bits or sell it at the moment

Thanks for the replies.
Tanneman, thanks for going into such detail. Bit naive of me but I didn't consider the loctite on the engine bolts! Did the ypiece split at a weld?
I will measure my torque arm later on. Do you know what difference I would get with the sport (yellow spring) compared to my normal (blue spring) shock?
Yeah good point about the forks, I can get it all done in one. Never heard of the plastic tube before, is it's purpose just to fill a gap? And am I right in thinking I don't want any air left in the forks?
Dave the German, yeah I get from Colin's pictures and conversation that he is the type of man that you would like to buy anything off! Read a bit about ramshox earlier, they seem good. Can't see many user reviews though.
Many thanks for helping me,
Regards,
Richard

RSBowling wrote:Bit naive of me but I didn't consider the loctite on the engine bolts! Did the ypiece split at a weld?
I will measure my torque arm later on. Do you know what difference I would get with the sport (yellow spring) compared to my normal (blue spring) shock?
Yeah good point about the forks, I can get it all done in one. Never heard of the plastic tube before, is it's purpose just to fill a gap? And am I right in thinking I don't want any air left in the forks?

The Loctite is for the seal around the front cover, not the bolts. The manual explains it all.

Not sure for memory is failing me but I think you are right.

I think the difference is about 20mm in height. If you do a search on here or pelican parts there is several posts by winger on here or Chris Canning (same bloke) on pelican parts on the matter of suspension.

The tube does just that. No other purpose.

When you fit the forks you are going to compress and extend them thereby sucking in air. At the end of assembly just make sure the bike is supported and level, wheels on the ground. Open the valve to vent to equalise and then close the valve. That is all. If you don't do that then pressure inside as the forks compress may force the oil out past the seal.

Thanks for that, I will search for it and hopefully find some more information out. Ah right, I got a stainless bolt kit for it, so if the loctite just for the cover I can get away with swapping one at a time.
Thanks for informing me on the forks.

Been looking into the de cat import procedure. Firstly I googled what happens, a great link is http://www.infomania.co.uk/archives/526
I found this very helpful. I also rang customs and excise and they said that it would scrape under import duty, so would just have to pay vat @20%.
So from what I can gather, it gets shipped from China. Lands in uk and gets sorted in post, then gets sent to customs for cost calculation. Then either Royal Mail or parcel force pay the fees and take it away. They then process it and get in touch with me, instructing me on how much and how to pay. Then once paid it either gets delivered or picked up from depot.
Hope this helps others who are dubious about outside eu postage.
This is only my interpretation of what happens, if your unsure, please check yourself, but when I receive it I will confirm what happens.

Hello,

And typically Parcel Force will charge you in addition a £13.50p handling charge on top of the VAT and (if applicable) duty and won't release until you cough up

On these items bought from outside the EC it's the "last mile" that tends to hurt cost wise.

Best regards,

David

Hi David,

Bugger! Ah well will see what comes of it. Customs said no import tax as scrapes under threshold. But i never thought of speaking to parcel force. Thanks for raising the point!
When it's all done I'll put a post on here to clarify it all, and hopefully help people put aside concerns about buying from china.

Regards,

Richard

Be aware that import duty etc is charged on the unit cost AND the postage cost!

That seems a bogus idea- but that's what they do.

Al

Well, hopefully they supply it with a tub of Vaseline to ease the pain!

Rich, i reckon if you play your cards right or shop around, someone is going to have the decat pipes (as opposed to buying something new) & they polish up ok even if quite grubby; i would ask the question here in the for sale section (although most folk that are regulars are probably reading these posts anyhow); ask the usual suspect retailers (actually i would almost bet that @beachcomber has some of his restores he is doing & he's reasonable on pricing as well) or watch out on ebay/.. As for shocks & as we have discussed via PM, i would go for an aftermarket as people swear its where to spend the money if you are going to spend it.... sure you can pay $£100 or less for a original BUT its likely to want a refurb & by the time you do that you've spent more or less £300; front shocks as you probably know can't be refurbished.

B

Yeah i know I'll kick myself for buying one, because Sod's law one will come up for sale! But I'm committed now so we will see how it pans out.
Yeah i think your right about the shocks. Also another thing is that my torque arm measures 385 centres, so I think the sports shocks won't fit without this changing.
Don't suppose the sports and standard front shocks are the same are they?
Cheers,
Richard

Hi,

Progress update.
Y piece got delivered within 10 days of ordering. Got a letter from parcel force saying they had it at my local depot, and that I'd need to pay £38 for it to be released. This is all done online with a reference number, you can chose next day or specific day delivery.
Anyway it arrived and looked great. Welds look good, steel looks good, slight brushed effect. If I had more time I would of buffed the welds up with a sisal w/compound to try rid the brown tinge.
Now removing the cat and silencers. What a basturd of a job. Where down pipes meet the cat, there are 4 Allen bolts holding them together. Of course all these were rotten and wouldn't come out. So got a nice sharp 10mm drill and drilled heads off. Sorted? Yeah right! The clamps were stuck to the shaft of the bolts. Plenty of wd40 and persuasion required. Careful with the gaskets as these need to be re fitted. Got them off and needed to take silencers off (rear wheel needs to be removed to slide the cat out). Silencers surprisingly uncomplicated. Undo the clamp where the silencers meet the cat pipe and pull them towards the back of the bike, remember to removed number plate light, and brake light.
Now removing the lambda sensor, requires the fairing removed, tank unbolted and slid backwards. Just unplugs. Make sure you see which route it takes.
Y piece is a really nice fit, no strain required. Just copper slip the new Allen bolts on figment.
Re assembly is reverse of removal.
Only problem I found with y piece is that is smaller in diameter than oe pipe. So clamp for silencers doesn't nip up enough. I put a steel sleeve inside the clamp for a temp measure. Contacted danmoto and they are sending me a new clamp with large adjustment.
Bike sound louder at low rpm, performance gain is minimal. But a good weight saving, and gets rid of that minging cat!
Under £180 and a good mod in my opinion.
All that's left mechanically is a new rear shock.
So far I have done-
L/h cam chain tens
All oils
Rear pivot bearing
Front wheel bearing
Alternator belt
Valve clearances
New tyres (metzler z8, great tyres)
To do-
Engine paint
Shock
Panniers (would like some)
Any other worth while mods I should consider?
Many thanks,
Richard

Get a headlight protector (about £20 from Skidmarx). A new headlight cost's the same as Greece's debt and used ones are like rocky horse poo