R1100S pulling to the right
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
R1100S pulling to the right
Hi guys!
I have installed a ThrottleMeister pacekeeper on my R11S in order to be able to rest my arms and wrists on longer trips. Problem is that I can't let go of the handlebars. Not that I have to, but I can't let go of the fact that my bike doesn't run straight. Anyone experienced something like it? It not just a bit, it is a lot and it is as soon as I let go of the handlebars.
Tips and tricks are welcome.
Simon, Denmark
I have installed a ThrottleMeister pacekeeper on my R11S in order to be able to rest my arms and wrists on longer trips. Problem is that I can't let go of the handlebars. Not that I have to, but I can't let go of the fact that my bike doesn't run straight. Anyone experienced something like it? It not just a bit, it is a lot and it is as soon as I let go of the handlebars.
Tips and tricks are welcome.
Simon, Denmark
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Thats a good question. I would expect a little run-out as the front and back wheels on an R11s arn't exactly in line (dont panic, its built that way on purpose), but if its a big deviation when you let go the bars, then I would suggest looking at all joints and bearings on the running gear.
From both the ball joints on the fork clamps as Andy said and the wheel bearings also. Probably worth a pull/push on the swing arm as well just to make sure those bearings are ok.
Oh, nearly forgot the pivot pins and bearings on the final drive, give those a check over too.
While you are at the back with the rear wheel off the ground, grab it at a quarter-to-two and give it a wriggle to make sure the FD main bearing isn't saggy.
From both the ball joints on the fork clamps as Andy said and the wheel bearings also. Probably worth a pull/push on the swing arm as well just to make sure those bearings are ok.
Oh, nearly forgot the pivot pins and bearings on the final drive, give those a check over too.
While you are at the back with the rear wheel off the ground, grab it at a quarter-to-two and give it a wriggle to make sure the FD main bearing isn't saggy.
R1250GS
R1100S BCR
KTM RC8R 12R.
2006 HD Streetglide.
Claas Arion 180
MF 135
MF 350
1943 Ford 2N Funk Flathead Conversion
R1100S BCR
KTM RC8R 12R.
2006 HD Streetglide.
Claas Arion 180
MF 135
MF 350
1943 Ford 2N Funk Flathead Conversion
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- Posts: 658
- Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 8:20 pm
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There you go, thought somebody with more engineering nous would chip in.
Forgot to say, the symptoms are exactly as I had on my first 1100 - i.e. the front pulling hard to one side and it was the lower ball joint - hence my opinion as opposed to any engineering knowledge as per DPG.
Once you see an old ball joint and a new one you realise exactly why you get the pull. The knackered one is just so tight
Forgot to say, the symptoms are exactly as I had on my first 1100 - i.e. the front pulling hard to one side and it was the lower ball joint - hence my opinion as opposed to any engineering knowledge as per DPG.
Once you see an old ball joint and a new one you realise exactly why you get the pull. The knackered one is just so tight

Let me google that for you.................Corvus wrote:I'm intrigued as to why the wheels are deliberately offset out of line?
How much is normal?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads1 ... 329371.jpg
Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....

Thanks for all the answers. I will be looking into all your suggestions. I should probably say that it doesn't feel like I need to constantly apply pressure to the left handlebar when driving normally with both hands on the bars, it is only a problem when I want to rest my hands a bit, or pull up the zipper on my jacket etc.
Could the camber of the road be a factor also? I see you're in Denmark so I assume that you're riding / driving on the right hand side of the road which will most probably be slightly convex to allow rain water to run off - meaning vehicles will have a tendency to drift to the right if left unchecked.
Try riding along the centre of a straight bit of road (conditions / traffic permitting of course) and see if this makes a difference.
Try riding along the centre of a straight bit of road (conditions / traffic permitting of course) and see if this makes a difference.
Big Scottish Al
____________
1982 BMW R65LS
1̶9̶9̶9̶ ̶B̶M̶W̶ ̶R̶1̶1̶0̶0̶S̶
2004 BMW R1150R Rockster 80 Jahre
____________
1982 BMW R65LS
1̶9̶9̶9̶ ̶B̶M̶W̶ ̶R̶1̶1̶0̶0̶S̶
2004 BMW R1150R Rockster 80 Jahre
If I am reading that properly, the permissible alignment is +4.5mm +/- 9mm. Hence a maximum offset of up to 13.5mm is permissible. That is more than 1/2 and inch!!Blackal wrote:Let me google that for you.................Corvus wrote:I'm intrigued as to why the wheels are deliberately offset out of line?
How much is normal?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads1 ... 329371.jpg
Al
I have googled and cant find why the nominal alignment is deliberately offset like that, especially as the tolerance allows a negative alignment of 4.5mm in the opposite direction?
********Jim********
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
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2006 'Colgate' R1200s
Probably because the standard bike has a 5" rear rim and the Sport has a 5.5" rim, allowing for the centre to be 1/4" offset as the rim bolts onto the final drive in the same place without any shims or packing added or removed.
Did a test on a quite famous racer and British Champion at the time (who will remain un-named to save his embarrassment) many years ago.
He was complaining that the wheels must be out of line - so we checked and they weren't.
Later on whilst he was out of the pit we re-aligned the rear so it was 1/2" out of line to the front and he couldn't tell any difference.
Just goes to show - its ok if they are out of line as long as they are parallel.
Did a test on a quite famous racer and British Champion at the time (who will remain un-named to save his embarrassment) many years ago.
He was complaining that the wheels must be out of line - so we checked and they weren't.
Later on whilst he was out of the pit we re-aligned the rear so it was 1/2" out of line to the front and he couldn't tell any difference.
Just goes to show - its ok if they are out of line as long as they are parallel.
John M
Thanks very much for the link.Blackal wrote:Let me google that for you.................Corvus wrote:I'm intrigued as to why the wheels are deliberately offset out of line?
How much is normal?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads1 ... 329371.jpg
Al
It tells us how much is "normal" ie; to spec, but not why it is intended to be there. Sp250's suggestion sounds as good as any!
4.5mm is bu**ger all really.
The plus or minus 9mm I assume is a manufacturing tolerance? The amount that the various fabricated structures can allow the wheels to drift? So, if you're lucky, your wheels could be in line anyway!

But, as herb says, it could also be up to 13.5mm out.
Would you feel it? Probably not 4.5mm but I think you would at 13.5mm, I'd suggest. When I've ridden bikes that are out a fair bit I could feel something amiss when steering into a corner. Lack of accuracy in hitting an intended line.
I know mine is out 3.5mm. I cant feel it and the bike isn't dragging either way.
I thought of another thing that *may* be causing your problem but i'll admit its a long shot. You may have a dragging brakepad somewhere. Perhaps check that you dont have a siezed caliper..
I thought of another thing that *may* be causing your problem but i'll admit its a long shot. You may have a dragging brakepad somewhere. Perhaps check that you dont have a siezed caliper..
R1250GS
R1100S BCR
KTM RC8R 12R.
2006 HD Streetglide.
Claas Arion 180
MF 135
MF 350
1943 Ford 2N Funk Flathead Conversion
R1100S BCR
KTM RC8R 12R.
2006 HD Streetglide.
Claas Arion 180
MF 135
MF 350
1943 Ford 2N Funk Flathead Conversion