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Hi guys!

I have installed a ThrottleMeister pacekeeper on my R11S in order to be able to rest my arms and wrists on longer trips. Problem is that I can't let go of the handlebars. Not that I have to, but I can't let go of the fact that my bike doesn't run straight. Anyone experienced something like it? It not just a bit, it is a lot and it is as soon as I let go of the handlebars.

Tips and tricks are welcome.

Simon, Denmark

My guess - that'll be the ball joint on the bottom yoke going tight. It needs replacing if so.

Just my guess of course ...

all my bikes do that as i've got a dodgy hip. so i put a load more weight on the right peg. just a thought if you've got a bad back that it could be you not the bike.

Thats a good question. I would expect a little run-out as the front and back wheels on an R11s arn't exactly in line (dont panic, its built that way on purpose), but if its a big deviation when you let go the bars, then I would suggest looking at all joints and bearings on the running gear.
From both the ball joints on the fork clamps as Andy said and the wheel bearings also. Probably worth a pull/push on the swing arm as well just to make sure those bearings are ok.

Oh, nearly forgot the pivot pins and bearings on the final drive, give those a check over too.

While you are at the back with the rear wheel off the ground, grab it at a quarter-to-two and give it a wriggle to make sure the FD main bearing isn't saggy.

There you go, thought somebody with more engineering nous would chip in.

Forgot to say, the symptoms are exactly as I had on my first 1100 - i.e. the front pulling hard to one side and it was the lower ball joint - hence my opinion as opposed to any engineering knowledge as per DPG.

Once you see an old ball joint and a new one you realise exactly why you get the pull. The knackered one is just so tight

I'm intrigued as to why the wheels are deliberately offset out of line?

How much is normal?

Corvus wrote:I'm intrigued as to why the wheels are deliberately offset out of line?

How much is normal?

Let me google that for you.................

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads1 ... 329371.jpg

Al

Thanks for all the answers. I will be looking into all your suggestions. I should probably say that it doesn't feel like I need to constantly apply pressure to the left handlebar when driving normally with both hands on the bars, it is only a problem when I want to rest my hands a bit, or pull up the zipper on my jacket etc.

Could the camber of the road be a factor also? I see you're in Denmark so I assume that you're riding / driving on the right hand side of the road which will most probably be slightly convex to allow rain water to run off - meaning vehicles will have a tendency to drift to the right if left unchecked.

Try riding along the centre of a straight bit of road (conditions / traffic permitting of course) and see if this makes a difference.

Thanks for the tip McBoxer. I'll try that.

Blackal wrote:

Corvus wrote:I'm intrigued as to why the wheels are deliberately offset out of line?

How much is normal?

Let me google that for you.................

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads1 ... 329371.jpg

Al

If I am reading that properly, the permissible alignment is +4.5mm +/- 9mm. Hence a maximum offset of up to 13.5mm is permissible. That is more than 1/2 and inch!!

I have googled and cant find why the nominal alignment is deliberately offset like that, especially as the tolerance allows a negative alignment of 4.5mm in the opposite direction?

Probably because the standard bike has a 5" rear rim and the Sport has a 5.5" rim, allowing for the centre to be 1/4" offset as the rim bolts onto the final drive in the same place without any shims or packing added or removed.

Did a test on a quite famous racer and British Champion at the time (who will remain un-named to save his embarrassment) many years ago.
He was complaining that the wheels must be out of line - so we checked and they weren't.
Later on whilst he was out of the pit we re-aligned the rear so it was 1/2" out of line to the front and he couldn't tell any difference.
Just goes to show - its ok if they are out of line as long as they are parallel.

Blackal wrote:

Corvus wrote:I'm intrigued as to why the wheels are deliberately offset out of line?

How much is normal?

Let me google that for you.................

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads1 ... 329371.jpg

Al

Thanks very much for the link.

It tells us how much is "normal" ie; to spec, but not why it is intended to be there. Sp250's suggestion sounds as good as any!

4.5mm is bu**ger all really.

The plus or minus 9mm I assume is a manufacturing tolerance? The amount that the various fabricated structures can allow the wheels to drift? So, if you're lucky, your wheels could be in line anyway!

But, as herb says, it could also be up to 13.5mm out.

Would you feel it? Probably not 4.5mm but I think you would at 13.5mm, I'd suggest. When I've ridden bikes that are out a fair bit I could feel something amiss when steering into a corner. Lack of accuracy in hitting an intended line.

It is to accommodate differing wheel widths, and even among racers - is not perceptible - apparently.

Parallel orientation is the limiting factor

Al

I know mine is out 3.5mm. I cant feel it and the bike isn't dragging either way.

I thought of another thing that *may* be causing your problem but i'll admit its a long shot. You may have a dragging brakepad somewhere. Perhaps check that you dont have a siezed caliper..