www.boxertrix.com

Hello all.

I've just taken delivery of a 1999 R1100s which appears to be in the rudest of health with a FSH & mileage approaching 49k. I think the bike is standard, but I haven't had a proper inspection yet.

I'm not familiar with this model so are there issues I need to look out for, or useful/essential mods I need to do? Someone has suggested changing the fuel pressure regulator to one from a K1200 to fix a lean burn issue, any thoughts on this?

Cheers

Ian

Get some pics up on here and people will no doubt let you know what you have / need. There are some common mods, not all of them immediately obvious to the untrained eye.

Was the former keeper a member here?

Thanks Jim,

I can't seem to link to images from my PC so presumably I have to host them on a site like photobucket?

Meanwhile it was item 331060396974 on Ebay & I think the details are still on the site if you want to have a look before it disappears.

Cheers

Looks like a standard S, the SS has Yellow springs on the shocks and a wider rear wheel(180 rear tyre) I have no doubt somebody will be along to tell you Black is the fastest colour, Ha, Silver is
Look under the plastics for any obvious mods, a carbon fibre intake tube or K&N filters etc.


Al.

Still running a cat, so I think it's unlikely the induction system has been modified without sorting that first. Looks pretty standard. Looks tidy.

Start scouring ebay for a decat pipe and Lennies intake pipe to help get the gasses in and out a bit more easily.

Should have gone to specsavers, missed the cat

Al.

Al wrote:Looks like a standard S, the SS has Yellow springs on the shocks and a wider rear wheel(180 rear tyre) I have no doubt somebody will be along to tell you Black is the fastest colour, Ha, Silver is
Look under the plastics for any obvious mods, a carbon fibre intake tube or K&N filters etc.


Al.

tut tut .... everybody knows the blue and white BCR ones are the fastest .... the RWB ones try but fail miserably

IanB wrote:Hello all.
I'm not familiar with this model so are there issues I need to look out for, or useful/essential mods I need to do? Someone has suggested changing the fuel pressure regulator to one from a K1200 to fix a lean burn issue, any thoughts on this?

Cheers

Ian

It looks completely standard, I'd ride it for a bit , see if you like it, then maybe remove the cat and fit a y piece, keep a look out for a 5.5" rear rim ( suits 180 tyre) .
There are various mods such as lennies sprockets (advance the valve timing) and induct pipes / airfilter mods, modified (larger) fuel tanks. The fuel regulator in general isn't required and is a bit of a blunt instrument in terms of fuel enrichment. , I've over 100 k miles on my S without one or indeed any aftermarket device. . A power commander and dyno time is much better or there are cheaper devices that fool the injection via the air temp sensor.
Maybe check the paralever bearings for play , and change the bevel box oil just to see if the service history is as good as the documentation.
Everything has been covered on this forum , if you can't find what you're looking for just ask!

slparry wrote:

Al wrote:Looks like a standard S, the SS has Yellow springs on the shocks and a wider rear wheel(180 rear tyre) I have no doubt somebody will be along to tell you Black is the fastest colour, Ha, Silver is
Look under the plastics for any obvious mods, a carbon fibre intake tube or K&N filters etc.


Al.

tut tut .... everybody knows the blue and white BCR ones are the fastest .... the RWB ones try but fail miserably

We ride the RWB slower so people can see them - they're much classier

dave the german wrote:

slparry wrote:

Al wrote:Looks like a standard S, the SS has Yellow springs on the shocks and a wider rear wheel(180 rear tyre) I have no doubt somebody will be along to tell you Black is the fastest colour, Ha, Silver is
Look under the plastics for any obvious mods, a carbon fibre intake tube or K&N filters etc.


Al.

tut tut .... everybody knows the blue and white BCR ones are the fastest .... the RWB ones try but fail miserably

We ride the RWB slower so people can see them - they're much classier

... and we have a bite

It looks like a genuine advert. My biggest concern would be corrosion and service history. Check the obvious, brake discs, brake pads, condition of the braking system (hoses and fluid, play in the lever), rear wheel play, any play on the head stock, suspension (would probably benefit from a refresh or replacement), sidestand cut out switch. When riding the bike it will have vibrations but not so bad that it feels like holding a hammer drill, gear shift should be slick but needs deliberate shifts, neutral should be easy to find, no hesitation when accelerating or surging on a constant throttle, all electrics should work. Most of the faults can be fixed cheaply but if the bike has been down the road and cracked the subframe it is a replacement. So check for welds or cracks where the subframe bolts to the main frame. Remember the that the engine is a stressed member so if any crash damage is spotted a thorough inspection is on the cards or walk away. It is expensive to fix.

"there are cheaper devices that fool the injection via the air temp sensor"

To check this take off the seat and look for the lead coming out of the air box if looks about 9 inches long and could be unplugged both ends you already have the mod. If not search for "Accelerator". or

http://www.sol2.be/Performance/ENG/Home/index.html

It is a quick plug it in mod that fools the ECU into thinking theat thair inteh airbox is cold and therefore it enrichens teh mixture. Gives you better acceleration right throgh the range - but does affect fuel consumption bit. I think tha these are about £40 and are fitted in minutes and giev you instant gratification.

What TTT said , I have an accelorator thingy, it does work, mine definitely runs smoother but it does knock a bit off mpg figure, and I must remember to disconnect mine for the winter.


Al

Al wrote:What TTT said , I have an accelorator thingy, it does work, mine definitely runs smoother but it does knock a bit off mpg figure, and I must remember to disconnect mine for the winter.


Al

Ahh ha the winter Mode setting what a good idea.

I think that these are a really bad way to do any tuning. Increased risks of bore wash when cold is enough to put me off.

If you want to adjust fuelling, either go with the motronic chip that goes with the laser exhaust or a setup session with a Power commander.

I found the fuellling on the two I have had to be fine. Just make sure that the throttle bodies are balanced properly.