Have just done the search on this and found the most recent post was a couple of years ago.
Since then has anyone fitted these gauges?
I also saw a discussion re cooling fans. Let me tell you that if you have to ride in stop-start traffic on a 30C day you bike will turn into a popping, farting cantankerous mongrel !!!
This is mainly because the air temp sensor (in the top rear of the airbox and away from incoming air flow) gets heat-soaked and causes the mixture to lean out. (BTW - my longer GS tubes now draw air from around the sensor, meaning that it is reading the true temp of incoming air).
So I have a pair of computer fans ready to fit behind the existing cooler. Actually I'm now thinking about adding a second cooler in a less restrictive place and using the fans there.
Since owning my 928 I've become very aware of the importance of oil temps and pressures (and viscosities and ZDDP and VI's and 'stuff') so I'm transferring that to the running of my 'S'.
Cheers
John C.
.
Oil temp and pressure gauge.
Moderators: slparry, Gromit, Paul
Oil temp and pressure gauge.
Last edited by HerrFlick on Wed Jan 30, 2013 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)
Probably a good idea if riding in traffic in high temperatures.
My 1200 was never the same after getting stuck in slow and stationary traffic in high 30s temperatures (Eastern Europe btw).
I had high quality, nearly new oil, in it. The onboard temperature gauge showed normal operating temperatures... ie. MILES from the top, but the engine stunk it was so hot. Not many opportunities to switch it off; the engine got noisier and noisier. Definite cam chain rattles but also other knocks and rattles (cam followers I think).
When the bike eventually cooled down, the noises lessened a bit. With new oil it improved again, but the engine was always noisier and a little rougher after this. The cooked oil looked like black water when I drained it.
The bike has since done several other long trips abroad without getting any worse.... strong engines these!
These engines are ok for hot climates if they are set-up properly (too lean as standard) and the bike can be kept moving. So ok in the desert but not in a built up, mad city or stop-start climb up a mountain in searing heat. The engine might take it, but the oil can't.... so then....
My 1200 was never the same after getting stuck in slow and stationary traffic in high 30s temperatures (Eastern Europe btw).
I had high quality, nearly new oil, in it. The onboard temperature gauge showed normal operating temperatures... ie. MILES from the top, but the engine stunk it was so hot. Not many opportunities to switch it off; the engine got noisier and noisier. Definite cam chain rattles but also other knocks and rattles (cam followers I think).
When the bike eventually cooled down, the noises lessened a bit. With new oil it improved again, but the engine was always noisier and a little rougher after this. The cooked oil looked like black water when I drained it.
The bike has since done several other long trips abroad without getting any worse.... strong engines these!
These engines are ok for hot climates if they are set-up properly (too lean as standard) and the bike can be kept moving. So ok in the desert but not in a built up, mad city or stop-start climb up a mountain in searing heat. The engine might take it, but the oil can't.... so then....
-
Dai wiskers
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30+ thats just below freezing to just above i thinkBikerhoss wrote:You'll not get many Scottish replies for 30+ temps
My bike shines when it rains!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dyslexic Dai
Steptoe
http://www.gsshop.biz/
Dan Cata
http://boxer-upgrades.webs.com/
Lennie
http://www.boxer-performance.com/index.html
Dyslexic Dai
Steptoe
http://www.gsshop.biz/
Dan Cata
http://boxer-upgrades.webs.com/
Lennie
http://www.boxer-performance.com/index.html
Neil178 wrote:John, I just had a look at your 'chube' thread and couldn't see if you are using a booster plug or similar?
If not there is plenty written here at at Pelican about them.
Another great mod for sensible money!
(sorry for delay - I don't know the couple you mentioned)
Thanks Neil.
Not using a booster plug.
But I talked a mate into fitting one to his 1200GS to civilise the low end throttle response.
after I took it on an all weather 3000 mi. trip (and was ready to burn the thing at about the halfway point. Grrrr.) I had been considering re-mapping, power commanders, adjustable pressure regulators, the booster plug, Lazers, Akroprovics, StainTune's, sacrifical virgins, and offering frankincense ... called a halt at the gold bit tho'.
Then I fitted the choobs and all problems vanished. No joke.
Next step is to fit Rocket Sprockets. I already have Lennie's InDuct. Bike is otherwise stock.
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Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)
Phil K wrote:Herr Flick
Your Lennies is crying out for a Power Filter !
What series CB750 have you got?
Phil
No it's not! And My GS tubes cost only $30 or so.
The 750 is a K2. Well, in a pile of pieces in the shed. On the slab.
Including the original HM320 4-into-4 mufflers.Hope to bring it to life sometime this year. Full fairing. Honda IoM colours.
Something like this:
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Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)
So the GS didn't like it? I have no idea why that is but if you have access to a Booster Plug then for the time it takes to fit it at least give it a try?
Just thinking about keeping the fuel ratios safe if you think it's lean.
Some years ago I bought a car (Lancia Fulvia 1.6HF) that didn't have an air filter fitted as the previous owner was a cock. Anyway, I burnt a hole in a piston as a result so I'm that little bit more careful now.
Just thinking about keeping the fuel ratios safe if you think it's lean.
Some years ago I bought a car (Lancia Fulvia 1.6HF) that didn't have an air filter fitted as the previous owner was a cock. Anyway, I burnt a hole in a piston as a result so I'm that little bit more careful now.
No. The 1200GS loved it. (It was my mate's bike that he loaned to me for the trip).Neil178 wrote:So the GS didn't like it? I have no idea why that is but if you have access to a Booster Plug then for the time it takes to fit it at least give it a try?
Just thinking about keeping the fuel ratios safe if you think it's lean.
Some years ago I bought a car (Lancia Fulvia 1.6HF) that didn't have an air filter fitted as the previous owner was a cock. Anyway, I burnt a hole in a piston as a result so I'm that little bit more careful now.
I actually bought the booster plug for my mate after the trip. I'm aware of how it operates.
It was during the trip that the 1200 drove me bonkers with its s****y throttle response aroung the 2000rpm mark. On or Off. Not good in heavy traffic or on wet roundabouts.
I'm not using a booster plug on my 1100S with the GS choobs.
A/F ratios on the last dyno run ranged from 14 at low revs to 11 at 8000rpm. Very healthy.
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Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)
You certainly dont need a power filter with the GS tubes. In fact I had to take my large K&N out because the tubes run right underneath the standard air filter.
My bike has an opened up intake, booster plug, lennies sprockets and GS tubes. Now running the standard paper filter. It runs fantastic, the tubes and spockets are the best mod I have done to mine.
That Honda looks cool, always fancied building a CR replica.
Keep thinking I should mount my Kawa engine in a H2R chassis but I think the reed valve conversion would get in the way of the frame tubes,
My bike has an opened up intake, booster plug, lennies sprockets and GS tubes. Now running the standard paper filter. It runs fantastic, the tubes and spockets are the best mod I have done to mine.
That Honda looks cool, always fancied building a CR replica.
Keep thinking I should mount my Kawa engine in a H2R chassis but I think the reed valve conversion would get in the way of the frame tubes,
There are only two things in life that are "Priceless"
Time & Health
Everything else can be bought or stolen.
Time & Health
Everything else can be bought or stolen.
Free money.
Gee Mike, if we repeat this often enough and for long enough someone might believe us.
I'm beginning to feel like the chap on a candid-camera show who was trying to give away money to passers-by.
Nobody would take it cos it seemed too good to be true; must be a catch somewhere ... the looks on their faces ...
In my my carbon-fibre version I'll build in lots of technical-looking aero things like vortex generators, golf ball dimples, an elliptical-shape bellmouth (which all help btw. Oh gawd - shouldn't have said that ...), put it in a glitzy box with all the dazzling tech. explanations and an installation kit with a cd and charge 395 quid.
Reckon I'd be killed in the stampede.
Point being that ppl will gladly part with hard-earned money 'cos they think if they're not paying a lot then the 'thing' won't be much good. (And they won't be able to brag on abt how much they've spent to make it really go).
We're a funny lot of cattle aren't we?
.
I'm beginning to feel like the chap on a candid-camera show who was trying to give away money to passers-by.
Nobody would take it cos it seemed too good to be true; must be a catch somewhere ... the looks on their faces ...
In my my carbon-fibre version I'll build in lots of technical-looking aero things like vortex generators, golf ball dimples, an elliptical-shape bellmouth (which all help btw. Oh gawd - shouldn't have said that ...), put it in a glitzy box with all the dazzling tech. explanations and an installation kit with a cd and charge 395 quid.
Reckon I'd be killed in the stampede.
Point being that ppl will gladly part with hard-earned money 'cos they think if they're not paying a lot then the 'thing' won't be much good. (And they won't be able to brag on abt how much they've spent to make it really go).
We're a funny lot of cattle aren't we?
.
Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)
Re: Oil temp and pressure gauge.
Read and enjoy : http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r110 ... light=heatHerrFlick wrote:I also saw a discussion re cooling fans. Let me tell you that if you have to ride in stop-start traffic on a 30C day you bike will turn into a popping, farting cantankerous mongrel !!!.
PS1: the whole thing works OK since, although the main function is to stop oil temperature going (and going) on than lowering an already high temperature. Meaning that you should switch ON the SPAL before things get hot. SPAL is a bit noisy, mind.
PS2: abysmal tolerances (ancient air cooled motor) + lean injection mapping strategy + officially suggested mineral oil (use full synth) + traffic + no actual cooling = Armageddon (in a variety of ways).
R12S, black, ex Ohlins (now WP), full HPE, RB3(in place - at last)
Re: Oil temp and pressure gauge.
peter f wrote:Read and enjoy : http://forums.pelicanparts.com/bmw-r110 ... light=heatHerrFlick wrote:I also saw a discussion re cooling fans. Let me tell you that if you have to ride in stop-start traffic on a 30C day you bike will turn into a popping, farting cantankerous mongrel !!!.
PS1: the whole thing works OK since, although the main function is to stop oil temperature going (and going) on than lowering an already high temperature. Meaning that you should switch ON the SPAL before things get hot. SPAL is a bit noisy, mind.
PS2: abysmal tolerances (ancient air cooled motor) + lean injection mapping strategy + officially suggested mineral oil (use full synth) + traffic + no actual cooling = Armageddon (in a variety of ways).
Thanks very much Peter. Very useful stuff.
I see you have WP suspension. Is it worth the money?
Cheers
John C.
.
Real torque curves don't have a first derivative. :-^)
Re: Oil temp and pressure gauge.
Well...the least that can I do for a fellow (hot) pipe and slippers rider, he he.HerrFlick wrote:
Thanks very much Peter. Very useful stuff.
I see you have WP suspension. Is it worth the money?
Cheers
John C.
.
On the WP subject:
Back > 4618 bavp (hi/lo compr, rebound, preload ring with "hex bolt", hight)
Front: 4014 spin - non emulsion obviously (same adjustments minus the preload ring).
Worth around 2200+ Euro but you can find clear-off offers. Worth the money...but I wish that Penske (THE business on that matter) could bother offering his wonders for the R12S. They need servicing around the 30K/3years mark. A clear indication for service time is the lost rebound capability (all high class WP do that Sir).
Accessing the 4618 hi/lo compression adjusters (via a 4mm long allen) is quite tricky and may damage the flimsy bolts. Extra stupid engineering that one (see TTX 36 for how it should been done).
Settings: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5125124-post84.html
Looks: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/5148954-post29.html
best, Peter
R12S, black, ex Ohlins (now WP), full HPE, RB3(in place - at last)