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Well I'm confused and perplexed by this one.

Couple of months back the rear brake jammed on one day. Stopped freed it off with judicious use of wrench and brute force/ignorance and continued journey without using it.

I stripped, thoroughly cleaned and overhauled the rear calliper using new seals ( dust and fluid ), new pads and fresh fluid, the pistons were fine. I also had to replace the rear bevel to swing arm agitor as the heat had set the bugger on fire !

All was well until today when the bugger jammed on again.. argh !
That'll be another seat of seals and gaitor then ( set it on fire again ! )

Now I have never experienced this on any other bike I've owned, is there something I don't know about the rear brake setup on the S that I should ?


answers on a postcard to the usual address please.....

Toodle Pip

Nothing out of the ordinary concerning the rear brake.
Try changing the pistons,they could be damaged.
The rear back plate moves freely i presume?
gus

How many miles has the beast done and do you keep it clean.
The back brakes are notorious for getting sticky.
Bailey.

If you use an Ilmberger style hugger that attaches to the rear brake bolts, then the hugger arm can restrict the free movement of the brake on its sliders. Just a thought.

Hi guys

it's done about 36K now, I do tend to keep it clean, with the odd lapse.
It;'s a Pyramid plastics CF hugger on the rear.
The floating retainer plate does indeed move freely.

Over haul kit should arrive today so I'll strip it again tonight, but it';s getting embarissing riding along with smoke and flames belching from the rear ( the bikes rear that is beofer the comedians start up ! )


Toodle pip

theseadog wrote:Hi guys

it's done about 36K now, I do tend to keep it clean, with the odd lapse.
It;'s a Pyramid plastics CF hugger on the rear.
The floating retainer plate does indeed move freely.

Over haul kit should arrive today so I'll strip it again tonight, but it';s getting embarissing riding along with smoke and flames belching from the rear ( the bikes rear that is beofer the comedians start up ! )


Toodle pip

The only thing I can think of that might have an effect (though it's a long shot) is the apparent need to put the little spring metal plate in facing the right way around, with the arrow pointing forward - I think it WILL fit in either way around -

Good luck

Jason

Jason M wrote:

theseadog wrote:Hi guys

it's done about 36K now, I do tend to keep it clean, with the odd lapse.
It;'s a Pyramid plastics CF hugger on the rear.
The floating retainer plate does indeed move freely.

Over haul kit should arrive today so I'll strip it again tonight, but it';s getting embarissing riding along with smoke and flames belching from the rear ( the bikes rear that is beofer the comedians start up ! )


Toodle pip

The only thing I can think of that might have an effect (though it's a long shot) is the apparent need to put the little spring metal plate in facing the right way around, with the arrow pointing forward - I think it WILL fit in either way around -

Good luck

Jason

You been smoking that stuff again Jason???
You've lost me!
Bailey.

Ahhhhhhhhhh - that's better..... I can't afford that stuff mate - I have to make do with the smell of two stroke fumes and petrol

The thing I'm on about is the 1in square bent metal plate that sits in the top of the rear section of the caliper above the pads - is it an anti squeel plate or something? Anyway, if you clean it up, it has an arrow on it, and the arrow should be pointing towards the front of the bike when it's in situ in the caliper - so I'm informed (by the manual I think)

Jason

Seadog,

I don't know whether this has any bearing on your problem, but I seem to remember that there was a recall of all 1100S' in 2000 to fix a potential rear brake problem. I think it had something to do with the linking mechanism.

At 36k - have you ever changed the brake fluid? It's hygroscopic (absorbs water) and if it gets contaminated the water will expand and cause the brakes to overheat as the pads come into contact with the discs.

D

Darth_1100S wrote:At 36k - have you ever changed the brake fluid? It's hygroscopic (absorbs water) and if it gets contaminated the water will expand and cause the brakes to overheat as the pads come into contact with the discs.

D

Hi Darth

Yep original posting !!!! do pay attention. Good suggestion though, but I did indeed replace it when doing the seals due to the hygroscopic properties of it.

It's a weird one, but I must admit I'm impressed with the ceramic pistons, which from what I've managed to find out, do appear to be completely ceramic, not just a coating.

Just need to keep an eye on it now.

Toodle Pip

years ago I had a similar problem with an old CX500 bike i used to despach on. It was a real mess! The front brakes would bind from time to time, which could prove exciting! The cause was worn callipers/pistons causing the pistons to skew in the calipers and become jammed against the sides. My solution, I sold the pile of cr*p!

When you rebuild the brakes, carefuly mic up the piston and the bore and examine for score marks.

theseadog wrote:Well I'm confused and perplexed by this one.

If this is a sliding caliper, I would look at possible wear on the pins it slides on, causing the fixed pad to jam on the disk?

Might be complete b****x but I'm sure this used to be a problem with old h*nda calipers.

Cheers
Alan

Paul,
similar grief on my old but very quick GS1000. I regularly serviced every bit of that bike, even the stand hinges, so was most upset when it seemed to loose power!
It turned out to be a siezed brake pedal! I did all the above checks too, but as it was well serviced, none of them applied. I had not greased the brake operating pedal spindle for about ten years!! And it was gunged with a rusty mud.
So have a look in that area next - good luck.

Now there's an interesting thought !

The pedal does appear to move reasonabley freely as I'd initially checked that when it happened whilst out, though I haven't checked the spindle itself so that's next then.

Thanks for the suggestion.


Toodle Pip