www.boxertrix.com

bigblackfalco wrote:Was that the one that S*C fixed?!
Bailey.

That was the one I seem to remember they put the village idiot on the job and it took him SEVEN... YES SEVEN hours to change. That would have come to £455+vat (£534) but after he told me that and they had got the crash team to restart my heart he generously bought it down to the 'book value' of 4 hours (even though I'd bought the box in loose so they didn't even have to take it off etc) and charged me about £380 I seem to remember.

First one lasted 90k including a fully laden TRW trip!

And sometimes I wonder why I try so desperatly not to give them any of my cash

Jason

So how many miles did you get out of it?
I'd go the Motorworks route.....get a S/H one with as low mileage as poss.
Bailey.

bigblackfalco wrote:So how many miles did you get out of it?
I'd go the Motorworks route.....get a S/H one with as low mileage as poss.
Bailey.

Bike has now done 139.5k. I've put Julians old box on now but I'll take the other one appart and see if I can fix it cos it has the ABS hole and Julians doesn't.

Jason M wrote:

bigblackfalco wrote:So how many miles did you get out of it?
I'd go the Motorworks route.....get a S/H one with as low mileage as poss.
Bailey.

Bike has now done 139.5k. I've put Julians old box on now but I'll take the other one appart and see if I can fix it cos it has the ABS hole and Julians doesn't.

ABS is for fairies
Bailey.

bigblackfalco wrote: ABS is for fairies
Bailey.

Just call me Tinkerbell

Thought that might have been the case. Looks just like mine did. Actually I think I had a bit less bearing cage left on mine!

The seal came up a winner for a quid. The first part of the code was different (often relating to models) but the last 6 figures were the same as the packet sat in front of me from my seal by coincidence. Will have to check sizes of seal to be sure though when I ordered mine Motorworks said that it was the same as all the other models and they'd used them for years. It's worth a gamble.

Found the hot air gun was invaluable when doig this job and a lot of the time was waiting for things to cool down. All you need in addition to the hot air gun is a three-leg puller from Halfrauds to get you away.

Best of luck.

Me-109 wrote:Thought that might have been the case. Looks just like mine did. Actually I think I had a bit less bearing cage left on mine!

The seal came up a winner for a quid. The first part of the code was different (often relating to models) but the last 6 figures were the same as the packet sat in front of me from my seal by coincidence. Will have to check sizes of seal to be sure though when I ordered mine Motorworks said that it was the same as all the other models and they'd used them for years. It's worth a gamble.

Found the hot air gun was invaluable when doig this job and a lot of the time was waiting for things to cool down. All you need in addition to the hot air gun is a three-leg puller from Halfrauds to get you away.

Best of luck.

Chears - I'm going to see how Julians diff feels for a few weeks then decide what to do. I'm going to SORN the S for the summer when the tax runs out next year to do some much needed work on her and I might wait till then to do the diff as long as the other one lasts that long.

More of a problem for me at the moment is a snapped exhaust stud in the GS - the bloke obviously rode it one winter then left it in the garage to rot. All 4 of the studs are extreemly corroded and need replacing. I've got an excellent Irwin extractor socket set http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/scripts/pro ... IN10504635 and I can't rate them highly enough but.... the smallest is an M8 like the stud, but all the thread has corroded on the stud and the socket can't bite it. I need an M7 but the only ones who do one are snap-on and that would cost be £45 + might not fit in the available gap - it's all a f'kin nightmare!

Jason

Jason M wrote:

gus wrote:Jason
You are a lucky git aint you.How you didnt end up on your backside i,ll never know.Rear wheel steering a BM aint no mean feat.
Hope you get it back together with out too much hassle and expense.
gus

Gus mate - good to see you. How is the beast coming along then?

Hi jason
The beast is making progress,slow but going in the right direction.I,ve been busy designing and making blanks for the new airbox and side panels.I,ve got to extend my shed so i can work on the bike during the winter.Not very pleasant or effective doing major bike reconstruction out on the street. As soon as the foam blanks are made then its stripped down and reapainting the engine and frame/aparalever arm.Then its on to rewiring and putting on all the new goodies i,ve been aqquiring.May do the engine this winter too,funds permitting.
all the best
gus

Jason M wrote: Having the mainfold and skid pan off really show how scabby the bottom half is Archie has told me the best way to put it right but I'll wait till after the winter I reckon then do it

Jason

So what's the best way to do it then Jason ? I'm curious as that's also on my list of things not to do when I could be riding instead ......


Toodle Pip

[quote="theseadogSo what's the best way to do it then Jason ? I'm curious as that's also on my list of things not to do when I could be riding instead ......
[/quote]

Alright Paul - I've been reliably told that the best way is to shot blast it then spray. If the areas are small you could use a localised hand weapon of choice to do the shotblasting in situ then spray using an airbrush, but if your's has this kind of acne



like my new (old) GS then you need to get the whole engine out and into a shot blasting cabinet then pretend you're Duke Nukem for an hour to get the scabs off then spray it properly with a proper outfit.