www.boxertrix.com

Hi there, sorry for the slow reply.. Not too good with keeping in contact with the Internet! I have actually. It ended up being the fuel in the end which got the second cylinder to fire. I also checked the plug gaps and reset them to .4 which made the bike run a lot smoother! Have booked it in next week to balance the TBs so it should be as good as new hope that helps!

I have been advised to buy the best quality fuel all the time .

Either BP 97 or Shell advance .

NO supermarket fuel ever ....

motion wrote:Hi guys, after some advice!

?

watsondesign wrote:Hi there, sorry for the slow reply.. !

Slightly off topic , did you sign up twice?

how strange , fuel is good enough to run on one side , and not the other ,, still , live and learn

after swapping everything over & bobing fresh fuel in and checking no mice have got in anyware
The last 2 things i would play with are a compresion test to rule out a sticking valve & you mentioned the hall sensor,
I rode to a bike shop bought a new jacket ,lovely pice of kit, strapped the old jacket to the rack fired up the bike and BINGO running on one pot.
ended up with the bike in bits, pannels off, bits everyware, hand running along HT leads trying to get it fired up ( NOT RECOMENDED ) outside the shop pulling my hair out
Ended up putting it all back together and having one of lifes moste interesting rides.
One cylinder, then Two, then One & then five as it tooooooookk off,
Oh and that turned out to be the Hall sensor

ah well , at least the probs sorted out ,,, result ,,

motion wrote:

Blackal wrote:

motion wrote: Twin spark engine!

So ! - have you checked both stick-coils on the affected cylinder!

Have you tried swapping coils between cylinders!

I have, unfortunately it's the same problem even with the ht leads swapped over. The spark im getting is a really strong one which Only confused me more!

It looks that way doesn't it, always forgetting the passwords.. I convinced myself i hadn't signed up under this username and here we are. Passwords recovered now ha ha!

Quick update, I fitted a de-cat, modified silencer and EFI chip on the weekend. Bike runs great but idles terribly so I'm taking it down to the tuners on Friday for a quick TB balance and check over. Ill also get them to fit a K&N and new plugs just to be on the safe side as ill (hopefully) start being able to ride her again now the weather is turning.

I've also fitted a integrated rear light but it seems whatever way i try the resistors around I cant seem to slow the indicators?? for some strange reason they go slow on the hazards though. Any ideas?

http://www.matstrad.com/resistors_tech.php
hth

lesterzzzzzzzz wrote:Have you fixed bike yet. If so what was the problem plz.

Yes do tell, I now have the same problem, although I haven’t had chance to do all the above checks yet. Just checked for spark which is fine. If injectors can be swapped will be doing that next

stevesilver wrote:

lesterzzzzzzzz wrote:Have you fixed bike yet. If so what was the problem plz.

Yes do tell, I now have the same problem, although I haven’t had chance to do all the above checks yet. Just checked for spark which is fine. If injectors can be swapped will be doing that next

Ok I look like a twat, but in my defence I was on the search function with key word "injector" on my phone. It didn't show all these answers that i can now see on my laptop.

I suffered similar. Compression was down on one side. Turned out to be a small piece of grey deposit which had dislodged and was between the valve and the valve seat. I only discovered that after haling the head off and valve out.

Have you checked to see that you don't have a mouse nesting in the inlet tract.

If you have spark and fuel you must be missing air - yes? missing air = blocked inlet.

or it could be a valve stuck open or part open - compression test?