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Posted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 8:41 pm
by ned1
Had a problem with my R1100S twin spark where if I put in 98 in it would not run as well as 95.
To cut a long story short, one coil pack spark was weak so the secondly
spark which fires a fraction later (so I was told) caused it to run a bit off.
All I can say is.................. one coil pack replaced............jobs done
from
![biker [smilie=biker.gif]](./images/smilies/biker.gif)
to
Ned
Posted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 11:19 pm
by Neil178
Herb wrote:
Personally, I can't feel any difference so typically use 95. On occasion I bung a tank of the good stuff in expecting to feel some change, but never do.
Dee eye tea tea oh.
Posted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 3:12 am
by bikesnbones
High octane fuel is hard to find where I am.
I'd run 2 full tanks of 95 before I eventually filled up with 98.
I noticed no difference at all, but then I am captain slow.
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 12:05 am
by SP250
I found my 11S ran smoother on 98 and if I was at the 'ring or doing a trackday I would always put in the pricier stuff.
Just for peace of mind when touching the red line through the gears and it was better on the transition from overrun to on the throttle on slow corners and hairpins.
John
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:46 am
by conkerman
As Tapio says, the advantage can only be gained if you have a knock sensor or have specifically mapped for high octane fuel. Then you have the risk of detonation on regular grade.
The main difference many people notice on vehicles without knock sensors is due to differing fuel volatility profiles.
This is my sort of specialist subject so will not waffle on.
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:34 am
by cros
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:45 am
by slparry
Total snakeoil ... avoid

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:56 am
by conkerman
The righteous Mr Parry has put it much more politely than I ever could.
Ask for a test report from a reputable 3rd party test house that substantiates these claims.
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:56 am
by cros
I have been using the CAT for many years now and find them good. If you read the spiel on the various web sites you will see what they do. They were first invented for the Merlin Engine for when lead was needed for ammunition and scarce for petrol. It re-structures the molecules within fuel properties and charges them with negative or positive Irons or whatever. I have used them in petrol and diesel engines and transforms them, smoother and more mpg. I have only used the tube type where the petrol/diesel go`s in one end `1/4" tube` and then feeds the carb/pump from the other end `1/4"`tube, the ones that I have used are about 6"/8" long + 1" Dia with the hose tails on the end......I do not know where you would mount this, I could only suggest it under the tank with tie raps.
www.fuelcat.co.uk/? or
www.carburetters.co.uk/Fuelcat.php?
or google search fuel cats.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Formula-Power- ... 1142141013
![whistle [smilie=whistle.gif]](./images/smilies/whistle.gif)
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:58 am
by slparry
cros wrote:I have been using the CAT for many years now and find them good. If you read the spiel on the various web sites you will see what they do. They were first invented for the Merlin Engine for when lead was needed for ammunition and scarce for petrol.
It re-structures the molecules within fuel properties and charges them with negative or positive Irons or whatever. I have used them in petrol and diesel engines and transforms them, smoother and more mpg. I have only used the tube type where the petrol/diesel go`s in one end `1/4" tube` and then feeds the carb/pump from the other end `1/4"`tube, the ones that I have used are about 6"/8" long + 1" Dia with the hose tails on the end......I do not know where you would mount this, I could only suggest it under the tank with tie raps.
www.fuelcat.co.uk/? or
www.carburetters.co.uk/Fuelcat.php?
or google search fuel cats.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Formula-Power- ... 1142141013
Do I get my browny points now ?
![whistle [smilie=whistle.gif]](./images/smilies/whistle.gif)
"It re-structures the molecules within fuel properties and charges them with negative or positive" it's that bit that is unbelievable at best

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:03 am
by cros
conkerman wrote:The righteous Mr Parry has put it much more politely than I ever could.
Ask for a test report from a reputable 3rd party test house that substantiates these claims.
Aparently you all will take Mr Parry`s view! (Do you know where he comes from ?)
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:05 am
by conkerman
I know.
Why bother having oil refineries when you can lob a tin can in some crude oil and it will carry out some (unspecified) reactions and undergo some (unspecified) rearrangement.
I am sorry but for something like this, I'd want to see proper test data from a reputable source.
Edit.
I don't know where Steve 'comes from' (Wales), but my training and my professional experience tell me the same thing.
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:33 am
by Herb
With Steve on this. Snake oil.
I remember speaking with my Dad when I was just starting out on bikes and talking about using a certain well known oil additive because I was convinced it would allow my CBX250 to keep up with my mates RD250LC.
He said, Honda and Castrol spend millions on research, if it was any good it would be in there already.
Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 9:51 am
by slparry
One other point, to anyone who does want to try it (to each his own etc).
I would not under any circumstances recommend affixing it with a "couple of tie wraps" ... (I'm assuming it has to go inline of the fuel hoses?).
The fuel system is a pressurised system, not sure of the pressure but ISTR the K1200RS's were around 2.5bar (36psi) so I guess around that, a couple of tie wraps ain't gonna cut the mustard

Posted: Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:20 am
by slparry