Fitting Lazer exhaust

[darkness]

Hi All

Decided this weekend to fit a lazer exhaust and Y piece, well the first thing was I could of picked a better weekend, but no problem thing could only get worst.
You guess it, they did,in trying to undo the 4 bolts which hold the header pipes to the cat, one boke, and the allen heads in the other three went nuts up.
I managed to sort the clamp on the right hand side but the left hand clamp even with bolt heads cut off will not move. I guess the bolts are rusted in the clamp.

Any one got any good ideas or suggestions to sort what I think must be a common problem and whats wrong with BMW bolts.

[Red Fokker]

Have you tried applying heat and then cooling them rapidly with water to try and break the rust?

[Paul]

It's happened to us all matey. Fear not, the thread is in the cat, which you're ditching anyway. Just drill them out making sure you don't damage the headers. You'll obviously need 4 new bolts and might as well get new gaskets while you're at it. Welcome to the club

Paul

[darkness]

Red Fokker , I have try running the engine to get them hot ,but not followed by the cold water approach, I will give it a go. Is it Ok to use a gas torch for the heat.

Paul
With regard drilling them out, I gave that a look but the problem seems to be getting access with the drill and the drill bit.

Darkness

[winger]

Undo the headers and drop the complete system off.

[oyster]

Is it Ok to use a gas torch for the heat.

I suspect the bike is new to you. No problem with using the hot spanner, but be aware that the breather pipes that terminate near the right footrest have petrol vapours in them.
Look for the little 10mm bolt that secures the cat from underneath.

[dave2wheels]

as has been suggested, undo the headers and remove the whole system (except for and assuming you've removed the silencers).

unless your'e a bit handy getting an oxy torch near the offending bolt
and have a mounted drill it would probably cost more to get the broken (stainless) bolt removed than to find a good secondhand catalyst (if needed). Anyway I have a spare! (reminds me must mention spare seat in other forum).

you may need to put some pressure under the pipes offering them up for refitting (it's usually the problem when undoing the bracket and leaving all the tension on the bolts when they break in the first place - I found that by experience!). Good luck.

Dave

[darkness]

Hi

Due to work have not manage a revisit to the offending LH exhaust clamp, but will hopefully later in the week.

I have been looking to remove the whole system as suggested, but can not help thinking (that can be dangerous) that this may lead to broken studs on the LH cylinder head.

Darkness

[Jason M]

Hi

Due to work have not manage a revisit to the offending LH exhaust clamp, but will hopefully later in the week.

I have been looking to remove the whole system as suggested, but can not help thinking (that can be dangerous) that this may lead to broken studs on the LH cylinder head.

Darkness

Just make sure all the bolt heads are gone - I use a dremel blade to cut them off - then use a lump hammer and knock the cat backwards towards the wheel. Personally I would advise you not to take the headers off unless your bike has done less than 10 miles and never seen rain (Like Wingers ) because if one of the header bolts shears (99% chance it will) then you've got more pain than you can handle.

If you're chucking the cat, then it matters not how you get the fecker off.

Good luck - we've all been there at least once

Jason

[Blackal]

Bought a Cat bypass pipe for the BCR......................

I expect to get:

a) More horsepower

b) More mid-range torque

c) Higher performance due to lower weight (can afford to eat a few more pies now )

d) Less of a "farty" sound from the exhaust

e) Skinned knuckles

Al

[dave2wheels]

yes I do agree Jas M I try not to touch the headers if theres and easier way - if you only have one bolt left I'm sure it will snap when you apply a bit of pressure (try and undo it and I'm sure the head will fall off) can you get a small cold chisel in there and help it off? don't think it will take much.
good luck

[sandbar]

If you are in any doubt about the header nuts, drill a small hole in the top and then fill the hole with Plus-Gas (NOT WD40!!!!). Leave overnight and they should then be loose enough to wizz off like a loose thing.

It would be an opportunity to replace the chromed dome nuts with some proper exhaust header nuts.

sandbar

[oyster]

Blackal: I expect to get:

a) More horsepower YES. ABOUT TWO

b) More mid-range torque YES

c) Higher performance due to lower weight (can afford to eat a few more pies now ) YES AND YOUNG LADIES WILL STOP AND WAVE AT YOU

d) Less of a "farty" sound from the exhaust MERELY SLIGHTLY LOUDER

e) Skinned knuckles PROBABLY

For best results an aftermarket silencer will give the best sound and slightly better performance.

My cylinder head nuts all came off o.k. on a 20k bike, but three of the cat bolts sheared. All replaced with stainless items and lubed with copperslip.

[darkness]

Hi

Today I manage to remove the sized LH clamp, after two days of drilling, grinding, lots of heat, a wedge and a big hammer. A right pain of a job.

Having lined up the Laser Y piece there seems to be bit of a gap were its meets the headers on both sides and the under mounting bar does not look an idea fit, are these both normal.

Will be fitting the new exhaust over this week providing nothing more goes pear shaped.

With regard to the rubber inserts on the exhaust, were is the best place to get new inserts.

Darkness

[r550s]

sandbar - why Plusgas & not WD-40?