Changing brake pads

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rocksteady
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Changing brake pads

Postby rocksteady » Sun Sep 02, 2007 7:29 am

I'll be replacing the rear brake pads soon. My Hayes manual doesn't show the type of brake caliper i have. It's the same i have seen on several other R1100's. Any advice on how to take out the old pads and replace them? :oops:
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Paul
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Postby Paul » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:42 am

this is what you do:

1) remove the caliper by undoing the two retaining bolts
2) ensure that the old brake pads are pushed back into the caliper as far as they will go
3) remove the spring clip (5), split pin (1) and drift out the retaining pin (2) as shown inthe diagram below

Image

4) drop out old pads, clean off excessive brake dust and crud from caliper
5) pop in new pads
6) reassembly is reverse of disassembly ((c) Haynes 1957-2007)
6.5) tightening torque for the brake caliper bolts is 40Nm. don't exceed this because the mount on the rear wheel drive is made from that special BMW alloy of aluminium and low fat soft cheese.
7) don't forget to pump the rear brake until it bites on the disc again before riding off.

There you go. Robert is your mother's brother! :wink:

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timbox2
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Postby timbox2 » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:59 am

Whats stamped on the outside and inside of calipers ie: Brembo, or BMW, mind you think they are all pretty similar.

Have a look at this

Image
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timbox2
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Postby timbox2 » Sun Sep 02, 2007 9:00 am

Paul wrote:this is what you do:

1) remove the caliper by undoing the two retaining bolts
2) ensure that the old brake pads are pushed back into the caliper as far as they will go
3) remove the spring clip (5), split pin (1) and drift out the retaining pin (2) as shown inthe diagram below

Image

4) drop out old pads, clean off excessive brake dust and crud from caliper
5) pop in new pads
6) reassembly is reverse of disassembly ((c) Haynes 1957-2007)
6.5) tightening torque for the brake caliper bolts is 40Nm. don't exceed this because the mount on the rear wheel drive is made from that special BMW alloy of aluminium and low fat soft cheese.
7) don't forget to pump the rear brake until it bites on the disc again before riding off.

There you go. Robert is your mother's brother! :wink:

Paul


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oyster
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Postby oyster » Sun Sep 02, 2007 11:56 am

Just remember; having taken out the R clip, the retaining pin exits the calliper inboard.
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Boxered
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Postby Boxered » Sun Sep 02, 2007 1:15 pm

Also, remember to smear some copperslip on the rear of the pads to stop them squeeling. I always very carefully put some on the side edges too, this enables easy removal next time around.

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chobbler
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Postby chobbler » Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:46 pm

That rear calliper slides on two pins, as your pistons are on one side only. Always pays to grease these pins a little bit. If the pins rust the brake gets grabby and the pad on the piston side wears out ahead of the other "fixed" side.
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Postby chobbler » Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:49 pm

...I use that moly paste you would use on the clutch spline, just in case it gets hot.
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rocksteady
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Postby rocksteady » Sun Sep 02, 2007 8:15 pm

Thanks very much for all the info guys, that's brilliant. I thought I was more or less on track, but being brakes I wanted to double check things before I started wielding the spanners. I have a tub of of high melting point copper grease so i'll smear the back of the pads with that.

Thanks again for the help :D
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bfisher
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Postby bfisher » Sun Jun 05, 2016 8:26 am

Guys,

Can anyone just verify the location of the clip/spring which appears to be item 5 from the schematics... have i got it correct as per image as it just doesn't seem right (i.e. it seems very loose & doesn't appear to do much if anything at all). See image on the URL below.

Brad

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPJwFWKWRl3rRdMNJymaxE5VxBi8xsfXPhWodCVZVG0E8z8n3km5ffpjzaIXZRzxQ/photo/AF1QipMd9FWGISwHfBIHEZtjfJ1QTdAyUURCriWOQqu5?key=Sk5IaVJhVzRhcXU1aVdRMzhIX3ZEME90ZTdYdTNB

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tanneman
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Postby tanneman » Sun Jun 05, 2016 8:39 am

That just keeps some tension on the pads so it doesn't vibrate or bind on the pin. Be sure to make a note of how it fits, it can be a bit of a fiddle to refit.
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bfisher
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Postby bfisher » Sun Jun 05, 2016 2:36 pm

tanneman wrote:....Be sure to make a note of how it fits, it can be a bit of a fiddle to refit....


Hmm, bit late for that ! Hence clarification appreciated if my picture looks as youd expect.

brad

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nab 301
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Postby nab 301 » Mon Jun 06, 2016 12:51 pm

bfisher wrote:Guys,

Can anyone just verify the location of the clip/spring which appears to be item 5 from the schematics... have i got it correct as per image as it just doesn't seem right (i.e. it seems very loose & doesn't appear to do much if anything at all). See image on the URL below.

Brad

Seems ok to me , it just clips on to the caliper.

Image
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Postby RiceBurner » Tue Jun 07, 2016 2:56 pm

Paul wrote:this is what you do:

1) remove the caliper by undoing the two retaining bolts
2) ensure that the old brake pads are pushed back into the caliper as far as they will go
3) remove the spring clip (5), split pin (1) and drift out the retaining pin (2) as shown inthe diagram below

Image

4) drop out old pads, clean off excessive brake dust and crud from caliper
5) pop in new pads
6) reassembly is reverse of disassembly ((c) Haynes 1957-2007)
6.5) tightening torque for the brake caliper bolts is 40Nm. don't exceed this because the mount on the rear wheel drive is made from that special BMW alloy of aluminium and low fat soft cheese.
7) don't forget to pump the rear brake until it bites on the disc again before riding off.

There you go. Robert is your mother's brother! :wink:

Paul


Please don't do the bit in bold.

Drop out the pads, THEN clean the pistons up as best you can, THEN push them OUT a bit more, clean again, THEN push them back into the caliper body.

If you push them back into the caliper body before cleaning the piston walls then you'll be pushing crud up against the seals.
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bfisher
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Postby bfisher » Tue Jun 07, 2016 7:14 pm

Thanks all for the replies.. the clip/spring fell out the other day after i rebuilt the calipers some time back (i won't say when as its embarrassingly a long time ago & this would thus highlight how long its taking to get bike back on road (if only it wasn't for the wife & the kids & that thing called work).. Getting close now though.

B


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