Sold the Fazer 1000...by mistake...so I'm getting the old S back on the road, but gotta do the front brake seals for the MOT
Anyone changed theirs? Is there a seal kit available sans the pistons? Motorworks want 40 a caliper but that includes the pistons.
Also - bleeding them - they're ABS (2000). I've bled the rear without a problem but is the front just as straight forward? I've got a simple vacuum bleeder that I did the back with.
Ta
Jason
Caliper Seal kits.
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
Caliper Seal kits.
2002 Black GSA (for random fault analysis and for stealing all my weekends fixing the b'stard)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
You will come to understand why I ripped out my ABS. I know it's wonderful and there will be a time the owner will be grateful for having it, but it was the maintenance, the plumbing and bleeding that finished it. One pair of hoses, master cylinder to caliper, sorted. And 7 Kilo lighter.
You have to bleed the system as a whole. Start by getting fluid back into the front end, the vacuum pump is very helpful. You want the front master cylinder released and secured horizontal, or else you will have trouble getting the resovoir level right. And watch out for the fountain of returning fluid when pulling the brake lever with the resovoir cover off. Then bleed by first doing the ABS unit rear bleed, then the ABS front bleed. Then the callipers. The air bubble will hang in the union between flexible and rigid on the right headstock and sometimes in the banjo union on the master cylinder. I found that tapping with a spanner while moving the joint to allow the air to rise helped.
If the bike is high milage or known to have done much town work, I would suggest new pistons too.
By chance, I saw a bit of a programme yesterday called 'Vroom'. A big Merc with ABS challenged a Caterham type car with ceramic brakes to the shortest stopping distance. The money was on the light as a soapbox Caterham with very good brakes. The result was astonishing. The big heavy Merc had a very even speed descending, smooth stop significantly shorter than the distance taken by the Caterham. It would probably have been even better margin in the wet. A lot to be said for ABS systems.
You have to bleed the system as a whole. Start by getting fluid back into the front end, the vacuum pump is very helpful. You want the front master cylinder released and secured horizontal, or else you will have trouble getting the resovoir level right. And watch out for the fountain of returning fluid when pulling the brake lever with the resovoir cover off. Then bleed by first doing the ABS unit rear bleed, then the ABS front bleed. Then the callipers. The air bubble will hang in the union between flexible and rigid on the right headstock and sometimes in the banjo union on the master cylinder. I found that tapping with a spanner while moving the joint to allow the air to rise helped.
If the bike is high milage or known to have done much town work, I would suggest new pistons too.
By chance, I saw a bit of a programme yesterday called 'Vroom'. A big Merc with ABS challenged a Caterham type car with ceramic brakes to the shortest stopping distance. The money was on the light as a soapbox Caterham with very good brakes. The result was astonishing. The big heavy Merc had a very even speed descending, smooth stop significantly shorter than the distance taken by the Caterham. It would probably have been even better margin in the wet. A lot to be said for ABS systems.
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
- BockingBandit
- Posts: 379
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 8:35 pm
- Location: London, ... heading East
- Contact:
On this subject, ... my front calipers need a rebuild too and the pistons are totally shot. Is there a secret to getting all of the pistons out without too much agro?. All tips on a Postcard Please,.. large writing, no long words.
Geoff
Geoff
Avoiding Reality ....... http://poorcirculation.blogspot.com/
First, surgically clean all of the calliper with warm soapy water. Tricky operation coming up. A toothbrush is good for this. The cleaner the better. With the calliper removed, thin piece of wood between the pistons, just pump the lever. You want all four to protrude evenly, then decide, with the wood out, which one comes out first. Just twist the others out after that. Remember, keep it clean! Put the pads somewhere like your sock drawer while you do this, you dont want any grease or oil on them at all. When the pistons are back and fluid is back in the system, replace pads and callipers to do the final bleed. Graham Hill's mechanic only used lint free cloth while cleaning callipers when doing this sort of thing, 'even a single fibre might cause a problem'!
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
Cheers for the tips - The piston kits came today and I'll try it next week. Clinical - not exactly the word for my garage - but I'll be as clean as poss. As long as there are no 'hard bits' like stones etc on them then I'm sure they'll be fine - christ, when you think of what they get exposed to, then you have to push the pistons slightly back in (when they're filthy!) just to get them off the wheel - unless you're anal enough to take the wheel out first I guess I'll be as careful as I can be though - the kits cost me 80 quid
Jason
Jason
2002 Black GSA (for random fault analysis and for stealing all my weekends fixing the b'stard)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
2000 Black R1100S (for remembering the good old times)
There's Brembo and Tokico calipers too. They look similar from a distance but there are differences, though they are interchangeable except the pads.
The Jap ones seem to rot quicker for one thing.
I have a pair of very nice tidy Tokicos complete that I would sell each for the price of a seal kit.
Bought in error
The Jap ones seem to rot quicker for one thing.
I have a pair of very nice tidy Tokicos complete that I would sell each for the price of a seal kit.
Bought in error
Brockworth Gloucs
If the pistons are very dirty then use a NYLON scourer and water or brake cleaner to clean them. Make sure it is nylon as metal scourers will mark the pistons.
Last edited by JoeC on Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
No longer a motorcycle owner.
- BockingBandit
- Posts: 379
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2005 8:35 pm
- Location: London, ... heading East
- Contact:
Chobbler, ... a pair of calipers for £80?. If thats the case,.. and they are suitable for replacing a pair of Brembo's, 1999, Non-ABS,.. then I'll be glad to take them off your hands. If so,. drop me a PM. Cheers
Geoff
Geoff
Avoiding Reality ....... http://poorcirculation.blogspot.com/
oyster wrote:You will come to understand why I ripped out my ABS. I know it's wonderful and there will be a time the owner will be grateful for having it, but it was the maintenance, the plumbing and bleeding that finished it. One pair of hoses, master cylinder to caliper, sorted. And 7 Kilo lighter.
.
.
Replaced pistons and seals on my brembo calipered abs model . A powerful vacuum pump is a must , 7kg ... hmmmmm ,may do that next time i'm doing a fluid change although at the moment the brakes are working better than when I bought the bike.
Interesting comparison on the car brakes though
Nigel B
_________________
Nigel
Keep smiling, it makes people wonder what you've been up to!
1999 R1100s (mandarin) '
2018 DL 250V Strom
2019 CB125F Honda.
MZ301 Saxon Fun ( currently retired)
'03 Bullet 65 project..
Nigel
Keep smiling, it makes people wonder what you've been up to!
1999 R1100s (mandarin) '
2018 DL 250V Strom
2019 CB125F Honda.
MZ301 Saxon Fun ( currently retired)
'03 Bullet 65 project..
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests