Dremel

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julian
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Dremel

Postby julian » Thu Nov 09, 2006 10:00 am

I've reached that time in life when I desire a Dremel. I even have a project that requires one - i.e. modifying the TL airbox which requires a fair amount of cutting.

Homebase have regular mains powere Dremels (with alleged £40 extras) for £50 or I can get a funky LiIon? battery one for £70.

My experience of battery tools is they're always flat when required for duty. Existing users - is there a compelling reason to plump for the cordless one?

Thx. JK
BMW R1100S (Black)
Suzuki TL1000S (Red)

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Ade B
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Postby Ade B » Thu Nov 09, 2006 7:02 pm

I too am considering purchasing the little wonder tool.

Will be keen to hear what Dremel aficionados have to say...

Ade
2000 R1100S Sport
1980 Vespa P125X

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PBBoxer
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Postby PBBoxer » Thu Nov 09, 2006 7:15 pm

Trouble with cordless stuff is once the batterries get crap, you hardly bother using them, or have to go out and buy another power pack.

Full electric shock jobby for me. I have a corded, pseudo dremel and it's great, specially when i had the really scary job of cutting a carbon tuono belly pan to fit the race system. Neat, quick and easy
1997 CBR1100XXV
1999 CBR1100XX
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sandbar
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Postby sandbar » Thu Nov 09, 2006 7:20 pm

I have the Machine Mart copy of the Dremel. £30 inc bench stand, flexible drive and 40 piece kit.

Having previously used a Dremel I can find no perceptable difference.

I have never felt the need for a rechargeable one.

The problem with the 'kits' is that most of the supplied bits are not needed, and the bits that you do use are very difficult and expensive to replace. I have never used the stand or the flexible drive.

sandbar

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Gats
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Postby Gats » Fri Nov 10, 2006 4:02 am

Julian, I use my Dremel cordless jobbie (the older 7.2 Ni-Cad) for close in work on jobs at the bench but the corded variety for anything else needing a bit more oomph.

The downside of these tools is the replacement bits and pieces are a sting, as Nigel has already pointed out, hence what appears to be a great deal due to the accessories included. Remember, the quality of the supplied bits are not the same between manufacturers. I have Dremel cutting bits that I have used for years and I feel they are the best available.
A flex drive is a great addition but a Dremel one will cost (dang - no pound sign on this local keyboard!).

So, the Machine Mart version Nigel mentions sounds the go for what you need to do. The flex shaft alone makes it worthwhile at the price mentioned. Add the bench stand (for hanging the tool with?)...

If you are hankering for a cordless, the Li-Ion Dremels are pretty good from all reports. It shouldn't die as readily as a Ni-Cad unit between uses, unless you are talking weeks on end, then it would be wise to periodically recharge it.
Gary Rose.
'06 R1200S Titanium with farkles - Moristech Pro Sequential Interceptor, full Remus system, carbon bits
'12 Tiger Explorer, loaded
'15 Triumph Thruxton ACE Cafe (hers)
-------------
A little inaccuracy saves a tonne of explanation.

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Bruno
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Postby Bruno » Fri Nov 10, 2006 9:22 am

We have tried Dremels and ersatz versions in mains and battery versions at work. The Dremel's last longer than the copies we have tried. More importantly the mains powered ones have a much higher top speed which makes the grinding-type attachments much more effective.
If you're going to use it regularly I'd get a Dremel, and unless there is a compelling safety or supply reason, I'd stick with mains.
The clone tools usually come with different sized arbours that would suit a real Dremel.
Don't know how to fix my bike, but I know my Dremels...

Mark
Why do cheap bikes never end up that way?

cc mac
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Postby cc mac » Fri Nov 10, 2006 6:22 pm

I bought a B&Q version a few years ago for about £25. Don.t know if they still do them, might be worth a look. I have been very happy with mine.
Watching you Focker!


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