no drive!

[johnr1100s]

cheers....

I'm hopefully going to start stripping it down, but I may need some help/advise, so I'll keep your offer open if thats OK.....

it may turn up, in a van, in a partially stripped state!!


John

[julian]

the only other thing I can think is because of the lennies induct, laser system, bb power chip etc...

If only that was true!

[johnr1100s]

I know Julian..... but it starts to make you paranoid.....

I had a slingshot gsxr a few years back, put yosh st1 cams in, gas flowed, 840 big bore, changed carbs, stage 1 filters, modified road legal micron system.....

and clutch destroyed itself in minutes......

spent about twice as much to gain about 1/3 bhp (I know there are benefits, really!...any idea what it is really worth?).... and clutch goes......

I can't believe BMW have put such a dodgy clutch in there! Don't know why..... I do own one and am (allegedly) intelligent.... but these people make cars that do zillions of miles and old bikes that were carved from granite!!

I need a lie down now......

[johnr1100s]

Well, my friendly bike shop mate (who I can't afford to employ) is on holiday next week, so is lending me his workshop with proper ramp and collection of hammers. So monday night or afternoon if I can finish early! I will crack on!

I have ordered new (secondhand) gearbox input shaft,
clutch friction plate,
and input shaft seal.

I have spoke to Steve at Scriminger.... and got a days work pulling a shower cable in for my Uncle, when I drop the box off.


Is there anything else I need before I start, or will need during??
Or, has anyone got any words of wisdom, mainly relating to the box and clutch.....

cheers John

[oyster]

You may want to tape labels to the bits as they come off; wires, pipes, bolts, they all seem obvious when you are starting the job, but become a challenge to put back!

[Jason M]

Have you got ABS? Hopefully not cos it makes life a little more difficult as you don't want to disconnect the caliper from the ABS system I suspended mine from a ring in the ceiling with a bungee.

Words of wisdom - more wished of luck I reckon! I would start NOW by liberally spraying plus gas all over the exhaust bolts at regular intervals to give yourself the best chance of getting them off later

The complete rear subframe with lights and exhausts will come off as one unit so don't waste time disassembling the rest.

The swingarm and bevel box can be kept together - just unbolt the top shock bolt and the paralever arm from the diff.

All the fuel lines in behind the airbox can be left in place as can all the injection stuff - just take the airbox off behind the injector intakes

Make sure you have a 6,8,and 10 mm hex sockets to get the frame off.

two axle stands on blocks of wood under the heads is the way to support the bike - I would put it on the centre stand till you're ready to remove the frame then lift the bike up (I use an engine hoist) by the frame and put the stands under the pots then you can take the frame off.

And... make sure you always keep a rubber mallet nearby!

Jason

[johnr1100s]

cheers Guys,

I haven't got ABS..... that seems good then!

I am off now to WD40.... I'll get some plus gas in the morning!!

Is it worth spraying and starting the bike to get some heat in the exhaust do you think??

cheers John

[Jason M]

cheers Guys,

I haven't got ABS..... that seems good then!

I am off now to WD40.... I'll get some plus gas in the morning!!

Is it worth spraying and starting the bike to get some heat in the exhaust do you think??

cheers John

Personally I think that starting up the bike to get the heat into the bolts just 'heat soaks' the whole area whereas to get the bolts out you want to try as much as possible to just expand the collar section and not the bolt if that makes any sence. Personally I would concentrate a flame on the rear collars where the exhaust bolts actually thread into - not too much though.

Truth be known it probably doesn't make much difference as they are complete little feckers to remove! Maybe you could try the bluetack or even sealotape trick of trying to form a seal along the bottom of the collar then putting loads of plus gas into the top so they sit in a little 'bath' of releasing fluid for a while.

[Ade B]

Best of luck John - I'm still waiting for bits to arrive, picked up cat yesterday (now have siamese cats ) cheers John T..

Jason, wasn't there a crafty trick with a bit of threaded rod to get the RHS plastic frame bung out - that would have stumped me for at least 1/2 a day.. and resulted in the purchase of new bit after I attacked it with an adjustable spanner and a blow torch....

Propping the bike securely needs a bit of thinking through and 2 pairs of hands is a plus.

Good luck with the exhaust bolts - a metal drill and a big hammer and chisel certainly does the trick

Now, back to that Lambda sensor.....

Ade

[Jason M]

Jason, wasn't there a crafty trick with a bit of threaded rod to get the RHS plastic frame bung out - that would have stumped me for at least 1/2 a day.. and resulted in the purchase of new bit after I attacked it with an adjustable spanner and a blow torch....

Ahhh - BMW tool A1223DR.... I got a small length of M6 threaded rod from B&Q - the right hand swing arm holder has 4 M6 hex headed bolts, take the middle one out first, then the other 3 on the edge next.

Insert tool A1233DR - threaded rod - into the middle hole left when you took the stubby M6 bolt out, attach a pair of moleys to the rod and a) either pull hard or b) 'tap' with a hammer and out it will pop.

You can probably just do it grabbing the stubby M6 with some moleys but the threaded rod only cost a couple of quid

Jason

[bigblackfalco]

Jason, wasn't there a crafty trick with a bit of threaded rod to get the RHS plastic frame bung out - that would have stumped me for at least 1/2 a day.. and resulted in the purchase of new bit after I attacked it with an adjustable spanner and a blow torch....

Ahhh - BMW tool A1223DR.... I got a small length of M6 threaded rod from B&Q - the right hand swing arm holder has 4 M6 hex headed bolts, take the middle one out first, then the other 3 on the edge next.

Insert tool A1233DR - threaded rod - into the middle hole left when you took the stubby M6 bolt out, attach a pair of moleys to the rod and a) either pull hard or b) 'tap' with a hammer and out it will pop.

You can probably just do it grabbing the stubby M6 with some moleys but the threaded rod only cost a couple of quid

Jason

That's me.....specialist tool pah!!
Bailey.

[johnr1100s]

well I've loosened the 4 bolts on the Y-piece and clamp bolt to cans,

from looking at Ades photos it seems I won't need to loosen the front pipes.

So does this mean I can breathe a small sigh of relief, and tick off one of the hastles??

[Jason M]

well I've loosened the 4 bolts on the Y-piece and clamp bolt to cans,

from looking at Ades photos it seems I won't need to loosen the front pipes.

So does this mean I can breathe a small sigh of relief, and tick off one of the hastles??

That is the No1 MAJOR hastle out the way then - no need to touch the front pipes at all.

Looks like it's going to go well hopefully

[johnr1100s]

Well started stripping the bike down this evening,

got pipes, subframe, bodywork, tank, and then started on the transmission....

got the swingarm bolts (plugs?) out and slid the bevel box and shaft housing off.... and the stink!!

the shaft seems to have a cush drive in it and that has died! It stinks of burned rubber or something!

You can see on the photos, that there is black stuff on the shaft, which seems to have melted out....




so I started reassembling the bike..... I can send the clutch and input shaft back to motorworks and get one of these instead.


John

[Jason M]

so I started reassembling the bike..... I can send the clutch and input shaft back to motorworks and get one of these instead.

John

NOOOOOOOooooooo don't send the stuff back. There is absolutley NO cush drive in the shaft area. Unless...... is the upper shaft one piece of metal, or is it a metal shaft contained by by a rubber inner or cush - I can't imagine it is else it wouldn't be capable of transmiting the torque surely.

It looks to me like someone has had that appart before and lubricated with completely the wrong stuff - . That will not be the reason you're getting no drive - well I'm 99% certain it won't be - unless you can rotate one end of the shaft independently of the other then that is NOT your main problem. I may be wrong though:shock:

If the shaft is just stuck but rotates as one unit then put a couple of rear bolts in the diff and rotate it to make sure you can see the diff input spline moving (ruling out the diff).

If that moves, then reattach the shaft to the gearbox output shaft, put the bike in gear and see if you can rotate the shaft (it might be quite stiff). If you can, the gearbox/clutch is definately OS

Ades shaft was completely seized when we removed it and it had been like that for some time before the clutch and gearbox gave up.

You need to get the gearbox off - honest

Jason