Clearly I am, followed Bailey's post mixed with the CD manual - fork leg remained attached to bike via wheel bolt and fork brace, stanchion slid out.... hence no tipping or draining - even I could have worked that out if the entire fork leg was in my hand....
From Bailey's post:
Do the job yourself.It is very easy.
Ensure you have all tools/oil/new seals/o rings/crush washers to do the job before you start!
Ensure bike is well supported in upright position.
Undo top triple clamp/handlebar clamp bolts.
Undo fill plug at top of tube to ensure no vacuum when you slide fork stanchion out.
Slide the stanchion upwards.It is not connected with the fork tube(is floating).*BE CAREFULL AT THE POINT WHERE STANCHION EXITS THE SLIDER AS THE OTHER FORK WILL PHSICALLY PULL ON COMPLETE ASSEMBLY/MAKE SURE YOUR HANDS DON'T GET PINCHED!
Pull stanchion clear of fork tube and remove from top triple clamp.
Lever dust seal/oil seal out of fork tube with suitable fat screwdriver or tyre lever.
Cover new seals in clean oil.
re-insert lightly and drift in with suitable sized socket piece.
Slide fork stanchion back into fork slider and fasten exactly how you found it.
Fill with correct level of oil.
Take bike off supports so forks are under load(DO NOT SIT ON IT!)
Tighten fill plug.
Take for cautious test ride.
Did all of the above verbatim. Didn't seem to be a reference to remove brake caliper, wheel, mudguard, undo fork brace etc.. to take off the entire fork leg.
When I lifted out the stanchion, thats all I got, a hollow tube with a threaded plug on the top, the other tube sat in the fork leg and refused to be budge under finger pressure.
Did I get the wrong end of the stick here or am I completely incorrect in my interpretation of Bailey's generous advice as implying that the leg stays attached to the bike....
Looks like I need to support the front properly and take the whole shooting match off. Good job fork seals are only 7quid.
Ade - extremely confused.