I have removed most of the ABS related parts to my bike. Saved about 5 kilo in weight. Useful info: rear brake hose is the same for with or without ABS; same pipe/hose union block. A cut down magic marker now fills the hole in the rear hub where the sensor used to live. Two sets of wires fix to the ABS unit, now taped off. AND the ABS light is still on! It is now warning me there something amiss with the ABS unit! Hah.
I invested in some K&N filter cleaner/oil. Was there some muck caught up in there! Re-oiled, suddenly the filter looks like new.
Road trial this afternoon, blowing a gale down here and almost freezing fog in patches.
Both brakes are better! I did all I could to improve them with ABS, even used a vacum pump. I think there are just too many corners for air to hide with ABS. I now have a rear brake that actually works! So I dont think those rear pads will last quite as long as previously thought.
And the bike is breathing better now. I can really feel there is more torque now. And, strangely, the exhaust has become a bit louder. I wonder just how much power the ABS drains from the system? It needs constant power, although quite small, for the sensors.
Strange thing, just cleaned my car K&N too. That engine is 1500cc, 400cc bigger than the bike. But the air filter is almost four times as big!!
ABSectomy and K&N service
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
ABSectomy and K&N service
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Sat Mar 18, 2006 1:57 pm
- Location: Lincoln UK
Hi Oyster, I have got the urge to rip a perfectly good ABS unit out by the roots, the lever feels quite solid, everything seems hunky dory, but I hate the complicated mess under the tank, and like the weight saving idea. How are you going to stop the flashing light, I hear there is a relay you have to pull under the fairing. What have you done to link the master cylinder to the front callipers, and how much did the whole conversion cost ???? The weather's been beautiful up here in Lincoln today, but the bikes in bits so no ride for me. TTFN Wilbur.
It's easier to ask for forgivness than it is to get permission, so go for it and take the concequences.
Wilbur,
seems No.1 relay may go west shortly! More saved weight.
The only expense for the conversion would be:
1. one new solid pipe between rear master cylnder and pipe union block.
2. pair of new hoses, front master cylinder to calipers; double banjo bolt and a handful of new sealing washers.
I bought the front hoses from Buster's, with the ancilliaries for about £40.
Motorworks for the solid pipe.
Double banjo bolt was about 1.5mm too long, so I fitted a spare washer to use up the gap.
Cheers
seems No.1 relay may go west shortly! More saved weight.
The only expense for the conversion would be:
1. one new solid pipe between rear master cylnder and pipe union block.
2. pair of new hoses, front master cylinder to calipers; double banjo bolt and a handful of new sealing washers.
I bought the front hoses from Buster's, with the ancilliaries for about £40.
Motorworks for the solid pipe.
Double banjo bolt was about 1.5mm too long, so I fitted a spare washer to use up the gap.
Cheers
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
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- Posts: 52
- Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 2:59 pm
- Location: Cleveland Stockton on Tees
Speedy,
There's a car place in Middlesbrough - Harpers Performance, I think it's called - on Linthorpe Road who sell K&N cleaner and oil. That's where I got mine. If you don't dig up the address I'll see if I can find it. They used to be on the main drag, south of the town centre, past the Forbes Building, past the Swedish church and Armstrongs Motorcycles, left hand side of the road as you go that way. May be cheaper than you think, especially considering postage and stuff from eBay or Demon Tweeks.
There's a car place in Middlesbrough - Harpers Performance, I think it's called - on Linthorpe Road who sell K&N cleaner and oil. That's where I got mine. If you don't dig up the address I'll see if I can find it. They used to be on the main drag, south of the town centre, past the Forbes Building, past the Swedish church and Armstrongs Motorcycles, left hand side of the road as you go that way. May be cheaper than you think, especially considering postage and stuff from eBay or Demon Tweeks.
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- Posts: 52
- Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 2:59 pm
- Location: Cleveland Stockton on Tees
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speedmachine wrote:... He said wash it in warm soapy water, dry off and put some Wd40 on.
come like new
Can't say that I'd recommend that advice... The K&N oil which you put on the cleaned filter is quite tacky, to trap the dust particles. Despite my sig line, on this occaission I think WD40 is not the right tool for the job. I think it would be too light, would evaporate and not provide any useful effect... For a saving of £12 is it worth the risk?
Cheers,
Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.
speedmachine wrote:He said wash it in warm soapy water, dry off and put some Wd40 on.
come like new
And they wonder why we prefer to do our own servicing, at least we know if we've bodged it or not.
Steve
Well-weathered leather
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware
Hot metal and oil
The scented country air
Sunlight on chrome
The blur of the landscape
Every nerve aware
And, of course, the service site will put hand on heart - 'yes sir, real K&N products used in the service, sir, that's why it is £20.00 to clean/service your filter!' In reality it will be a blast with the air line and a squirt from an oil can.
Just serviced my 125cc lawnmower, the air filter in that is almost identical to the one on the bike! The engine is a tenth of the size!!
The bike definately needs a better intake system.
Just serviced my 125cc lawnmower, the air filter in that is almost identical to the one on the bike! The engine is a tenth of the size!!
The bike definately needs a better intake system.
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.
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