Anyone got a wiring diagram

[Jason M]

they can email me possibly? My flippin horn has stopped working and it looks a bit mulitplugyrelaytastic in that region

Jason

[Paul]

Jason,

Have you checked for chaffed wires in the general vicinity of the left hand relay box?

Paul

[Jason M]

Hi Paul - I've been messing round all morning with this flippin thing. First plugged a spare switch set into the left hand connector box to see if it is the switch, but nothing different, then heard a relay going somewhere with the switch - swapped out all the left hand relays - not one of them - then took the other side to pieces and the horn goes through a relay in the right hand connector box - swapped over the relays but still no joy. The relay is clicking so the power must be going in/out there. Looked closely at the connector at the horn and it's badly chaffed so I wired in a new connector from my spares box with a connector block - still no joy. Werid thing is I'm getting about 3-4 volts at the horn when the switch is applied (should I be getting 12? I dunno ) Anyway - bollocks to all this. I'm going to get a BUGGER OFF loud replacement horn from Nippy Normans then if that doens't work (assuming it might be the horn that is broke - guess I'll take it off and test it on a battery later) I'll use the current from the connection to power a relay into a new circuit to get the flipping thing going

Chears Paul

Jason

[Jason M]

OK - can someone advise me please cos electrics are all greek/japaneese/chav to me and I don't understand um

I checked the input to the relay and it's getting 12v switched through the horn no problemo. The output circuit (presumably lower/different voltage) of the relay is dead - I get no reading accross the terminals and about .3v from the positive to earth through the tank so I presume that circuit is buggered somewhere but it goes through the huge spagetti bundle round the tank and back over the other side so I'm NOT about to start messing about with that!

As I'm getting switched 12v at the input of the relay, I figure I can just stick couple of spades in the relay inputs to create a circuit over to the horn with an in line fuse and jobs a goodun?

Is it that simple?

Jason

[hjr1100s]

Adamski did post a GS diagram before:

http://www.fishds.co.uk/other/GS-Wiring-Schematic.jpg

I assume the horn wiring is similar to the S's. Oooh, it only shows the motormanagement wiring, so is of no use.

You can check the relay by disconnecting the output connections, and measure resistance over the terminals while pressing the horn button. If it's OK the resistance should alternate between zero (or only a few) Ohms (the relay contact is closed) and infitive (the relay contact is open).

You can check the horn in a similar way. The horn is a coil so I guess it would read a few hundred Ohm. If it reads zero (or very low) or infitive (or very high), it's probably gone. You can test the horn: connect some wires to it and make short contact to your + en - of the battery (I would expect it to be a 12 V horn).

If both are OK, then check the wiring between output and ground (frame), output and horn, horn and ground (frame).

Note: it's hard to measure resistance while relay or horn are still connected, 'cos you'll probable measure resistance of other parts of the circuit as well. Make sure you don't measure while there's voltage supply on any part of the circuit you're measuring (so disconnect!), 'cos this will also mess up the results.

A simplified electronic diagram:



Good luck

HJ[/img]

[mdouglas]

You should think of the relay as two distinct circuits: a switching circuit and a load circuit. When 12V is applied across the switching circuit, electromagnetic action closes (or opens, depending on the relay type) the load circuit (by moving a metal plate to bridge the input and output sides of the load circuit).

If you are getting 12V at the switching circuit when you operate the horn button then the main wiring of the horn switch etc is perfectly OK.

So the problem is one of:

a) the relay is broken internally and the contact bar is not closing properly

b) the 12V feed wire from the battery to the input side of the load circuit is lacking integrity, or

c) the output wire of the load circuit that goes from the relay to the horn lacks integrity

You can check each of these as follows:

a) measure the resistance across the load circuit pins on the relay - with the horn button left alone, it should be an open circuit showing infinite resistance. With the horn button pressed the resistance should drop to virtually nil. If this happens, then the relay is fine.

b) Measure the voltage between the input wire to the load circuit and earth. This should be 12V (or 14ish if the bike is running). If this is only 3V - 4V, you have an issue with the wire from the battery to the relay e.g. corroded solder joint type issue

c) If tests a) and b) pass, then the issue must be between the relay and horn. Again, a chaffed wire or corroded solder joint is likely to be the main culprit.

Hope this helps but concious it could just read as a load more electrical double dutch!

[Jason M]

Chears fellas -

Yep - I've tested the horn on the battery and it works OK.

I've tested the voltage accross the output circuit and it's 0, but testing the +ve side of the output circuit (well jamming the red meter end in the spade for the output of the relay) to earth on the tank reads 0.3 or so. I've tested other relays and the results are all the same but as there appears to be no current on the output circuit of the relay, then I assume it's fubar'd somewhere - I am NOT going to try and chase the output circuit wires because they're deep in enemy territory (ie that big wrapped part of the loom ) so I've decided to ditch the relay and wire a new loud horn straight off the relay input spades from the working circuit. Either that or I'm going to shout BAAAAAARRRRRP very loud at the MOT when he tells me to press the horn

Flames and burning plastic here we come

Jason

[Boxered]

Either that or I'm going to shout BAAAAAARRRRRP very loud at the MOT when he tells me to press the horn

Flames and burning plastic here we come

Jason

Or you could fit one of those old fashioned bulb horns like my brother fitted to his rat bike to pass the mot, it passed
the guy who passed it tested it with a decibel meter against a gsxr600 that was also in for mot, the honky bulb horn was louder!

progress eh?

Steve

[hjr1100s]

I've tested the voltage accross the output circuit and it's 0,

This can only be if the contact is closed, or there's a shortcut between the -side of the output circuit (meaning the side to which the horn is connected) and the +12 V supply voltage, or there's no +12 V supply voltage at the + side of the outputcircuit (wire is broken).

I've decided to ditch the relay and wire a new loud horn straight off the relay input spades from the working circuit.

Don't know if that will work: you'll probably blow a fuse, which can be solved by replacing it by a higher current fuse (or a copper wire NOT!). The relay's function is probably to seperate the low current switching circuit from the high load current of the horn. Switching the horn directly will probably ruin the contacts of the horn pushbutton, causing it to fail after a x number of times. So if you don't use the horn too often it might do

If the wiring is suspect, you could just run a new wire from the eueuh (12V supply voltage?) to the +side of the output circuit and a new wire from the -side of the output circuit to the horn. If the relay is suspect replace it. Either one, or both

HJ

[Paul]

Jason,

Just seen this in the latest Wunderlich catalogue, which might be precisely what you need:



A bargain at only €450

HTH

Paul

[Jason M]

I've tested the voltage accross the output circuit and it's 0,

This can only be if the contact is closed, or there's a shortcut between the -side of the output circuit (meaning the side to which the horn is connected) and the +12 V supply voltage, or there's no +12 V supply voltage at the + side of the outputcircuit (wire is broken).

I've decided to ditch the relay and wire a new loud horn straight off the relay input spades from the working circuit.

Don't know if that will work: you'll probably blow a fuse, which can be solved by replacing it by a higher current fuse (or a copper wire NOT!). The relay's function is probably to seperate the low current switching circuit from the high load current of the horn. Switching the horn directly will probably ruin the contacts of the horn pushbutton, causing it to fail after a x number of times. So if you don't use the horn too often it might do

If the wiring is suspect, you could just run a new wire from the eueuh (12V supply voltage?) to the +side of the output circuit and a new wire from the -side of the output circuit to the horn. If the relay is suspect replace it. Either one, or both

HJ

Ta - OK, I'll try running a new +ve from the battery to the horn and see if that completes the output circuit to prove it's the +ve that is OS - if not, then I'll just run a complete new output circuit through the horn and relay to preserve the input curcuit as it is - I flippin HATE electrics

Jason

[hjr1100s]

I flippin HATE electrics

Try software ....

HJ

[Jason M]

I flippin HATE electrics

Try software ....

HJ

Errr.... been doing that for 20 years.... still trying...

[Archie]

I've tested the voltage accross the output circuit and it's 0,

This can only be if the contact is closed,

HJ

You would also get a reading of approx 0V across the open relay contacts if the earth connection was faulty.

Electrics is definitely better than software!!!

Cheers

Alan