Laser vs Standard Exhaust?

[MikeB3]

I brought my, new to me, R1100S home this weekend and having rode it 150 miles to get it here I can appreciate how great these bikes really are - you people on this forum aren’t wrong are you?
Anyway, my bike has got a full Laser exhaust, complete with dB killers fitted. I am not really into loud exhausts so while this system is fitted the killers will stay. Considering this and the fact the the dB killers must be restrictive, are there any significant advantages to having the Laser system over a standard exhaust?
My intention is to restore the bike back to standard but if the Laser exhaust gives a significant benefit then I will give it a good polish and keep it. If it doesn’t then I’ll sell it and look for a standard system. Therefore, before I do anything rash, does anybody have any views or opinions that they want to share?
Best regards
Mike

[Al]

If it’s a full Laser system it has done away the cat which is far more restrictive than the DB killers. You might struggle to find a standard system, keep the Laser.

Al.

[simon]

When you say full system, is that 2-1-2 or 2 all they way through?
If I wasn't already de-catted with a Laser end I'd offer to swap the nice middle cat and end bit I have
I'm sure there will be others offering...

[MikeB3]

It’s a 2-1-2 system.
Does anybody know if it’s possible to fit standard end cans onto the Laser mid section?
Best regards
Mike

[MikeB3]

A quick update. My bike has the standard front pipes with just the Laser Y section and tailpipes.

Does anybody know if the standard tailpipes fit the Laser Y section?

Also does anybody have any tips for removing seized, rusted exhaust studs? I don’t think that this issue was covered in the excellent Ralph Ferrand’s R1100S restoration feature in Classic Motorcycle Mechanics magazine.

Best regards
Mike

[dave the german]

the way to get the exhaust studs out is very carefully!!!! Seriously tho, they are a right barsteward. I got a local bike breaker to loosen the nuts and he used heat although there are others on here that have snapped the studs even using heat. Good Luck!!

[Blackal]

I assume the exhaust nuts are domed.

Drill a small hole into the dome, and spray in proper releasall. leave that for a day or so.
I like an electric/battery hammer drill for releasing nuts like this, as it is more like vibratory than hammery

Failing that - grind off the dome and get a dremmel in to the remainder of the nut - on a diagonal approach.

For the studs, I would try freezing the stud/heating the head and again - use a hammer drill. One important thing is to keep any torque even, and not produce a side force. (think dwang , rather than spanner)

As to the exhaust pieces - I am sure the Laser tail piece and OEM tailpiece are the same dimensions, so shoudl fit the Y-piece. These were produced with the notion that you could replace either of the parts (cat/tail) individually.

[MikeB3]

Thank you both for your advice.
I have managed to get the nuts off and strangely enough the nuts and studs on the right hand side of the bike look original but came apart very easily.
I will certainly follow the advice in not rushing this job and the two rusted studs are currently soaking in ACF50. Heat and then freezing seem to be logical next steps. Has anybody had any success with the freeze sprays that are available?
Best regards
Mike

[Blackal]

ACF50 isn't a penetrant/releasall - it is an alloy protector.

I'm not a fan of it - as it is meant for bare alloys, but bike owners bladder it everywhere over paint (painted steel too).

A good, hard cavity wax is my choice for protecting bikes