Broken exhaust stud r1200s

[dave the german]

Well, had my Boxercup at a local dealer/breaker today. Cherry red exhaust nuts and off!!! so pleased. Charged me 1/2 hour labour. Well chuffed with that

[slparry]

Well, had my Boxercup at a local dealer/breaker today. Cherry red exhaust nuts and off!!! so pleased. Charged me 1/2 hour labour. Well chuffed with that

with acetylene Dave?

[dave the german]

Heat of some sort Steve. I wasn't there when he done it. He did comment that there was no way they would have come off without it. I presume it would be bottles

[dave the german]

I wanted the pipes off to both polish them and paint the engine so not bothered about any paint damage (although there doesn't seem to be any and the paintwork is skanky anyway)

[dysondiver]

just swapped out all four studs on my project 1200s , two took heat , oxy acet , heat shield made , heat use shield cool shield , heat a bit more quench shield , etc till glowing let cool , then heat to cherry red and remove ,,
just got them out and no more ,,, the other two i could have screwed out with a pair of pliers and no heat ,,, so
new studs made , as the factory ones are too short for my next move ,, put in with tungsten disulphate assembly paste , now im going to use good old brass exhaust bolts , the vw beetle ones will do nicely , 8mm thread but made with an 11mm af and long enough to cover all the exposed thread ,, that should keep them easy for the next time they have to come off , maybe a good way to go , just thought id offer it up as an option , oh , and they will polish up nice too
if you know anyone with one of those nice hi tech magnetic induction heaters they would be ideal , as the lower studs do take some creative heat shielding.

[Henners]

just swapped out all four studs on my project 1200s , two took heat , oxy acet , heat shield made , heat use shield cool shield , heat a bit more quench shield , etc till glowing let cool , then heat to cherry red and remove ,,
just got them out and no more ,,, the other two i could have screwed out with a pair of pliers and no heat ,,, so
new studs made , as the factory ones are too short for my next move ,, put in with tungsten disulphate assembly paste , now im going to use good old brass exhaust bolts , the vw beetle ones will do nicely , 8mm thread but made with an 11mm af and long enough to cover all the exposed thread ,, that should keep them easy for the next time they have to come off , maybe a good way to go , just thought id offer it up as an option , oh , and they will polish up nice too
if you know anyone with one of those nice hi tech magnetic induction heaters they would be ideal , as the lower studs do take some creative heat shielding.

Got to remove my broken stud next week ~ can you confirm: turn anti-clockwise to remove? Thanks

[dysondiver]

hi , yes ,, righty tighty ,,, lefty loosey ,,, easy to remember that one , hth

[SyRexx]

well so far no joy in getting this bolt out. Last resort is a friend of mine has a metal work shop and a van and hes going to take my bike and get try the weld a nut on method and see if that works

[dysondiver]

get him to weld the nut on , plenty of heat ,,, then hit it again , a few times to let the heat soak in ,,, helps if you nly put the nut on about half way , then plenty of room for weld , and heat ,,, but im sure he will know that

[Pete.]

Had to remove a stud from a cylinder head today that had a hardened stud extractor snapped off in it. I over-drilled it with a re-ground centre drill to remove aluminium from around the stuck part then built up the stud with tig weld until it was proud enough to weld a nut on top. After that it just wound out with a spanner.

[dysondiver]

thats not too bad , as long as you dont mess with it , theres a fair bit proud ,

[victorlaszlo]

just swapped out all four studs on my project 1200s , two took heat , oxy acet , heat shield made , heat use shield cool shield , heat a bit more quench shield , etc till glowing let cool , then heat to cherry red and remove ,,
just got them out and no more ,,, the other two i could have screwed out with a pair of pliers and no heat ,,, so
new studs made , as the factory ones are too short for my next move ,, put in with tungsten disulphate assembly paste , now im going to use good old brass exhaust bolts , the vw beetle ones will do nicely , 8mm thread but made with an 11mm af and long enough to cover all the exposed thread ,, that should keep them easy for the next time they have to come off , maybe a good way to go , just thought id offer it up as an option , oh , and they will polish up nice too
if you know anyone with one of those nice hi tech magnetic induction heaters they would be ideal , as the lower studs do take some creative heat shielding.

Would like to swap them all on my R11S and R12S - where did you find these domed brass nuts, eBay doesn't seem to be of much help....

Cheers V

[victorlaszlo]

Do you reckon these would be long enough?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-BRASS-F ... S7IPgI25BQ

[BoxerCup R]

Definitely soak the stud in Wurth's 'Rost Off' (high oil content compared to competitors) or similar but from a pump spray bottle NOT an aerosol because the propellant in an aerosol makes the oil dry out sooner and soak it for a few days rather than just over night and tap it each day (you don't have to use a lump hammer) just a regular ball peen or claw hammer will work to try and release the hold it has, then apply heat and try and remove it. Try turning it both ways as well, not just anti clockwise to release it.

If all these attempts fail, cut it off near the head and using a titanium drill bit, drill the stud out and and use a 'tap' (as in Tap & Die) the same size as the original hole to cut the last edge out.

Worst scenario, take the head off and give it to an engineer to remove it.

Good luck