Blown Gasket

[lesterzzzzzzzz]

Anybody out there that can advise me on renewing the gasket between the gearbox and the swingarm/drive shaft. there seems to be a lot of grease and oil under the shaft which I presume is comming from there. Is it a competent diy or dealer job.

[nab 301]

:cry: Anybody out there that can advise me on renewing the gasket between the gearbox and the swingarm/drive shaft. there seems to be a lot of grease and oil under the shaft which I presume is comming from there. Is it a competent diy or dealer job.

I'm not aware of a gasket between the gearbox and swingarm.... Could be a gearbox oil leak .. (clean it up and then try to identify if it's engine or gearbox oil)
Never had the pleasure of replacing any of these seals ........yet
This is what they(the 11S) look like if the gearbox has to be removed ,(although you won't have to go that far if it's the gearbox output seal) not too difficult (apparently) but very time consuming
http://www.boxertrix.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... 36&start=0
A search in this forum will reveal most of the problems /fixes


Nigel B

[r550s]

what you've described is caused by an oil leak, which will be from either of two shaft seals: one at the gearbox output, or the other at the final drive/bevel box input.
Both are competent DIY, plenty of info on this forum, because it's a very common problem. If it is the bevel box input shaft seal, then you need a special castellated tool to remove the shaft locking ring (there's one in my workshop just off M1 junction 36)
Note that, whereas it is traditionally good practive to replace the bearing along with the seal (worn bearing = excessive shaft radial movement = seal failure: i.e. blame the bearing, not the poor seal), lots of BMWs were buolt with crummy seals and you can maybe get away with changing just the seal (I did!)
You can try and find out which one is leaking by peering inside the rubber gaiters at either end of the swingarm; the oil does seem to get everywhere though.

[Me-109]

Replacing the gearbox output shaft oil seal is undoubtedly the easiest of the two - given the tools and torque requirements of the bevel box. And it's quite cheap to do as well. Allow a couple of hours.