throttle position sensor

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johnl
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throttle position sensor

Postby johnl » Mon Apr 14, 2008 6:42 pm

well, i changed the clutch at the weekend, no probs but the bike still runs like a dog ( see thread 'any ideas ).

The bike will not go over 90 and often gets really bad dropping down to a top spead of 70 before going back to running bad and a top speed of 90.

It lurches all the time. If you try and use full throttle it just shudders and holds back.

so far i have done

- fuel filter
- air filter and cleaned out airbox
- changed the coil
- changed the ht leads
- new spark plugs
- disconnected lambda/oxygen sensor ( no differance )
- valve clearance and end float
- balanced throttle bodies
- removed and hosed out fuel tank a related tubing

So, does anyone have any experience of the throttle position sensor going wrong? Same for the fuel pressure regulator?

I do no think it can be the hall sensor as they seem to cause the bike to cut out when hot ( so I have read ).

All the cables would appear to be routed and working correctly as the throttle bodies balanced fine.

r550s
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Location: Baaarnsley

Postby r550s » Mon Apr 14, 2008 7:09 pm

'pologies if you've already done it - but maybe look down the throttles to make sure that they're opening evenly throughout their full travel as you twist the throttle. I'd re-check the throttle operation first, based on what you've described. Don't assume anything, these things have more throttle cables than, erm, something with a lot of throttle cables, ahem.
'Hinterachsge' translates as 'rear axle'.(Not 'Differential', so f*** off)

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nab 301
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Re: throttle position sensor

Postby nab 301 » Mon Apr 14, 2008 10:44 pm

johnl wrote:well, i changed the clutch at the weekend, no probs but the bike still runs like a dog ( see thread 'any ideas ).

So, does anyone have any experience of the throttle position sensor going wrong? Same for the fuel pressure regulator?

.


No experience of the tps but I suppose the only way to check the regulator would be to check the fuel pressure ,or maybe look at the plugs /do a plug chop /rolling road ? compression test ? Did someone suggest poor connections on the injectors?
You might be able to tell from the plugs if it's running rich lean, or can you substitute any parts from that spare bike of yours? :wink:
Nigel B
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Nigel

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1999 R1100s (mandarin) '
2018 DL 250V Strom
2019 CB125F Honda.
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'03 Bullet 65 project..

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oyster
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Postby oyster » Tue Apr 15, 2008 5:26 pm

This sounds like a fuelling problem. Wiring to the injectors. Fuel to the injectors. Injectors gummed. The above are tiresome checks. Removing the injectors is easy, swap them over it's a good way to check all connections. Crank the engine with the injectors off, fuel should pump out of the open hoses.
Oyster. 1999 R1100S. Almost original.

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Paul
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Postby Paul » Wed Apr 16, 2008 5:59 am

one thing you could try:

1) turn the igntion on, but don't start the bike
2) twist the throttle grip all the way from fully closed to fully open two or three times

I think you only need to do this if the battery has been disconnected, but no harm in trying it.

Hope this helps,

Paul
You really need only two tools: WD-40 and duct tape. If it doesn't move and it should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the tape.

johnl
Posts: 127
Joined: Thu Oct 19, 2006 7:50 pm
Location: here and there

Postby johnl » Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:02 am

thanks for the replies.

I have swopped the TPS with my other 1100s but to no avail.

Alas I shall have to face my fears and book it in with the dealer to go on his magic computer.

I think now it can only be the hall sensor or chaffed wiring. Everything else has been changed.

I shall let you kow the results.


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