Afternoon,
Since last Sunday my clutch has seemed to get worse, I've had to pull the clutch lever in further and further. Last night i couldn't even get the clutch to engage/disengage even with the lever was on the bar.
I had ordered a bleed nipple from motorworks with the aim of fitting when i bled the brakes and clutch over the summer. so with nipple in hand (oh boy) i set about removing the adapter and fitting the nipple onto the remote line.
I then spent the next 30 minutes bleeding the clutch until the fluid was clear and air free. my clutch felt sweet, never had it felt so good.
rode my 10 mile trip to work without a problem no change in the great feeling. however 5pm i left work, clutch felt the same as the morning until i started to get a jiggle on and went up and down the gear box. the clutch went back to being s*it again. the lever almost touches the bar before the clutch operates.
so at this point i need help, ideas and possibly some instruction.
-High Tower
Clutch problems
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- high_tower
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:39 am
Clutch problems
2006 z750 - hit and run
2001 CCM 640 supermoto - Traded
2001 BMW R1100s
2001 CCM 640 supermoto - Traded
2001 BMW R1100s
hardly a conclusive answer, but in order of pain its:
a: air in the system (bleed it again)
b: worn master cylinder seal (strip, check seal etc.) note that this is a possible cause of air in the system
c: knackered slave cylinder (remove rear frame for best access)
the haynes manual says that how you tackle the slave cylinder is up to your own dexterity - but 'BMW recommend undoing and moving the rear frame back at least 5mm'. The slave cylinder just pulls off the back of the gearbox once you can get to undo the bolts.
a: air in the system (bleed it again)
b: worn master cylinder seal (strip, check seal etc.) note that this is a possible cause of air in the system
c: knackered slave cylinder (remove rear frame for best access)
the haynes manual says that how you tackle the slave cylinder is up to your own dexterity - but 'BMW recommend undoing and moving the rear frame back at least 5mm'. The slave cylinder just pulls off the back of the gearbox once you can get to undo the bolts.
'Hinterachsge' translates as 'rear axle'.(Not 'Differential', so f*** off)
I couldn't help noticing that you wrote further and further? When I use my clutch I always press it all the way to the handlebar. Likewise when I am driving a car, I also put the clutch pedal all the way down.
Am I just a Rookie? I know that the last 1-2 cm has no effect what-so-ever, but just to be sure I always engage the Clutch fully.
Am I just a Rookie? I know that the last 1-2 cm has no effect what-so-ever, but just to be sure I always engage the Clutch fully.
Check the fluid if it has gone from being clear to a metallic grey colour then the slave cylinder has gone. You do not have to remove the frame, it will pull clear once the feed pipe from the clutch lever is removed with an allen key, undo the top spring bolt so the unit can swing back out of the way. Its a bit fiddly and irriating but not a big job. Motorwork generally have second hand units, make sure your buy a new gasket, union bolts and washers.
If at first you dont suceed then try try and try again, then stop and offer her money
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