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Hi,
I'm in the process of replacing the fasteners on the front end of my 1100S ie, brake disc button head retaining bolts, caliper retaining bolts, with stainless steel ones. What I would like to know is must I use torque head bolts as OE or can I replace with allen and hex heads?. I'l be using the required torkseal 2701 tightened the the specified settings.

Any thoughts?. Many thanks Cobbster.

The S/S kits that everyone supplies come with standard allen hex bolts.
Remember to use thread locking compound!
Bailey.

Loctite 2701 is just fine but you will also need to use an activator as Stainless steel is passive (or is it non passive) cant quite remember a quick phone call to Henkel Loctite will give you the answer.

Bob

I've been warned not to replace the bolts that hold the brake discs and callipers by stainless steel ones. Unless you verify that the replacement has the same strength as the original (a code on the hex-head of the bolt). I think that's the reason you'll only find stainless steel kits for non-functional bolts like the ones for mudguard, fairing, engine covers etc.

HJ

Thats a bit worrying, has anyone else out there replaced their brake disc bolts with stainless??

Cobbster wrote:Thats a bit worrying, has anyone else out there replaced their brake disc bolts with stainless??

yes ....ran the bike for 100'000 miles with no ill effects.
Bailey.

Cobbster wrote:Thats a bit worrying, has anyone else out there replaced their brake disc bolts with stainless??

I did with no ill effects --------- until the dealer changed the front disc's and had to chisel the disc carrier bolts off, Too soft he says even though they were of a high spec.

Mike

I was going to do the very same mod on my R12S, but the M8 bolts i "borrowed" from work were made from some form of semi - hard cheese.
I am now looking to get a set of Titanium bolts.

Hi
I had stainless steel disc bolts on mine for 40,000 miles with no problems.
gus

I have had stainless in all my bmw`s over the years and have had no issues at all. I have ti bolts in my current 1100s and in all my other bikes as well.
ian

Thanks everyone for their input. The bolts I'm using are from a company called Inox Fasteners who only use ultra high spec materials. The button head bolts are A2 class 304 spec stainless and their prices are pretty good aswell. Type Inox into google and you'll find them.

The Loctite 2701 I was intending to use is more or less unobtainable for us mere mortals so a quick phone call to my local stealers revealed that they use the softer 243 compound. Still unhappy with this I called Loctite who advised me that 270 or 271 was perfectly adequate and that 2701 was just an upgrade of the latter codes. 271 it is then!!.

Cheers Cobbster.

Would anyone have a list of fasteners that are used on the front of the R1100S that would cover the callipers, various pinch bolts on the forks, etc.

Just to make my INOX ordering easier

Thanks, Lee.

http://212.67.202.165/~boxertrix/phpBB2 ... 56f0702e3c

is a very old thread with some sizes in

Yawn been here before.

Cant find my old post that gives the full spec on stainless, A2 304 is your basic grade ie stale cheese.

A4 grade is a slightly better grade not much tougher but more resistant to rust.

And yes stainless DOES rust.

Having said that I have been using it for 30 years on all of my bikes.


Ok I have just found the post it reads as follows, Oh and by the way I am no longer in the fastner industry.

For those of you who want Stainless kits please read the following


For those of you who are interested and for those that can stay awake to the end of this post.
this information comes from a company called Fabory who are major manufacturers of fasteners in Europe.

Stainless Steel Mechanical Properties.
Property classes 50 70 80
1 System of designation of property classes.
A characteristic property of austenitic stainless stell is that-contrary to the heat treated steels which are used for the property classes 8.8,10.9 and 12.9-this material cannot be hardened and tempered, but can only be strengthened by cold working, increasing the mechanical properties considerably.
the 3 austenitic stainless steel grades A1,A2 and A4 are divided into 3 property classes 50,70 & 80 depending on the method of manufacturing and on sizes. The number of the property class corresponds with 1/10 of the tensile strength in N/mm2, eg class 80 has a minimum tensile strength 80 x 10 = 800N/mm2.

50 = the soft condition of turned and hot pressed fasteners. this is seldom used for current fasteners.

70 = the most universal and applied property class for all cold-formed fasteners this is the standard class and is delivered when no other class is ordered.

80 = the highest property class having obtained mechanical values by extra cold deformation to the level of the 8.8 heat treated steel bolts.

The following information is not from Fabory.

So as I understand it if you can get class 80 st steel this is approximatley equal to 8.8 grade steel which is standard high tensile strength this however is not as strong as standard steel capscrews which are 12.9 grade.

As an example a 12.9 grade 8mm steel capscrew would take 28,000 newtons to break.


A 8.8 grade steel capscrew would take 16,000 newtons to break.
So if you use grade 80 stailess steel it is aproximatley half as strong as 12.9 steel.

Bored yet!
In all of my BMW bikes 3 air heads 3 Ks and the 1100s iI have always used standard A2 on all applications this includes disc bolts pinch bolts clamp bolts in fact every bolt application on all of the bikes and i reckon that I have covered well over 200,000 miles in the 27 years that I have owned Beemers.


You may now wake up and read something usefull.

For you newbies Bobs the nut and bolt man!!! you should see the Titainium front wheel spindles he had made for me and Boxerpan,should be in a glass case on the living room wall really!!!.