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Hi guys, on the basis that there is no such thing as a stupid question........

With the old 1100S removing front wheel was simple with tht tools I had at my disposal. However, the 1200S appears to need a 'special tool'

Is this tosh? What does everybody else do when it come to front wheel removal? Do I need to buy what looks like a huge allen key.

I have also got a superb hugger thanks to Sandbar. Fitting looks straight forward, but wondered if there was anything I should know regards the 'Kardan' drive. (You removal three bolts and replace with longer items.) Does this drive hold oil? Is there any risk in terms of leakage?

But hey, at least the battery is in a sencible place!

Simon aka izustu

Hi there

I fitted my Sandbar huggger yesterday. I was straightforward and no horrors occured.





Just a couple of things to watch for.

a) If you have Ohlins, leave the shock shroud on - there's loads of room
b) The owners manual has no Torque settings for the Kardon drive bolts - so I guessed at 30nm - feel free to enlighten me anyone that knows better.
c) the bolts supplied aren't any longer than the OE ones but I still used them.

Nice bit of kit though - looks well in the flesh!

Andy

izustu wrote:But hey, at least the battery is in a sencible place! u

Its still fiddly to get too unless you remove panels. I fitted an optimate lead to it yesterday - awkward!

izustu wrote:With the old 1100S removing front wheel was simple with tht tools I had at my disposal. However, the 1200S appears to need a 'special tool'
Is this tosh? What does everybody else do when it come to front wheel removal? Do I need to buy what looks like a huge allen key.

Be careful with the front stand. I have not yet got round to the R1200S front stand, but on the K1200S/R a special stand is needed. Lots of places are just selling normal cup type stands that go under the fork legs. But they just close up the clamp that you have just loosened. BMW dealers are starting to see K's with mangled wheel axles and lower fork legs as a result of forcing out the wheel spindle whilst it is held tight by the clamp and paddock stand

izustu wrote:You removal three bolts and replace with longer items

They are the same length. It is just that they do not have the washers that are very difficult to remove. The hugger mounting takes the place of the washers so that you end up with the same depth of thread and the torque has exactly the same effect as the other screws. 30 NM is right!

stoney wrote: If you have Ohlins, leave the shock shroud on - there's loads of room

Again - be very careful. Remember that the bevel drive pivots and therefore the front of the hugger moves up and down relative to the front of the swing arm as the suspension moves through its travel. There is a (small) forwards and backwards component to this movement. This is an issue that was of concern on the R1100S. The advice to remove the (pretty useless) shock guard is not there just for the hell of it

What seems to be adequate clearance when static, soon changes with the suspension movement and the natural vibration inherent in any cantilever type design.


sandbar

Thanks for the comprehensive reply Sandbar.

When doing these little jobs, it's always worth knowing the possible consequnces before starting. (particularly when you've just spent £9K on a new bike )

Simon

izustu wrote:Hi guys, on the basis that there is no such thing as a stupid question........

With the old 1100S removing front wheel was simple with tht tools I had at my disposal. However, the 1200S appears to need a 'special tool'

Is this tosh? What does everybody else do when it come to front wheel removal? Do I need to buy what looks like a huge allen key.

I have also got a superb hugger thanks to Sandbar. Fitting looks straight forward, but wondered if there was anything I should know regards the 'Kardan' drive. (You removal three bolts and replace with longer items.) Does this drive hold oil? Is there any risk in terms of leakage?

But hey, at least the battery is in a sencible place!

Simon aka izustu

You'll probably find that a car type sump drain plug allen will fit your front axle. Measure across the flats and then get yourself down to Halfords to see if they have the correct size.
Bailey.

For sale.

3 Kardan drive bolts and a shock protector!

Managed to get a 22mm allen socket for the front wheel. I'll careful weight up the options when I need to raise front end. In the past I've used a jack but with the 1100S I had a stand that held the bike in the middle, rather than at the rear end. I fear that jacking the front under the sump may be too stressful for the sump cover as the weight isn't balanced in the middle, but at both ends. (If that makes sence?)

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

Simon

sandbar wrote: The advice to remove the (pretty useless) shock guard is not there just for the hell of it

Just to follow this up. I have just received modified fitting instructions for the hugger which now contains a specific instruction for those with Ohlins.

Then remove the original suspension strut protection cover, to get enough space for your hugger. If it is an Öhlins shock absorber, you will need to remove the lower bolt from the shock to remove the original plastic protection. For this you must support the centre of the motorcycle as well, otherwise the motorcycle will collapse.

sandbar

Thanks Sandbar

The additional instructions make sense, but weren't necessary in my case? I managed to remove mine ok.

It was 'fiddly' but doable with patience.

Simon