Obviously I can't post it on here but If anyone wants me to send it to them as an attachment let me have your e mail address and I'll sort it out for ya! Oh yeah, you'll need to have Broadband really it's a 5.5 meg file
Dave.
Wheel bearing oil seal
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
-
Darth_1100S
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 9:22 pm
- Location: It has a pier but it it ain't Blackpool or Brighton
- Contact:
Wheel bearing oil seal
A mate of mine who used to have an 1100S has just sent me an MPEG of how to get the bevel housing apart to change the main wheel bearing & oil seal. It's very useful for anyone wanting to have a go, and you'll save a fortune BMW charge a lot for doing apparently.
Obviously I can't post it on here but If anyone wants me to send it to them as an attachment let me have your e mail address and I'll sort it out for ya! Oh yeah, you'll need to have Broadband really it's a 5.5 meg file
Dave.
Obviously I can't post it on here but If anyone wants me to send it to them as an attachment let me have your e mail address and I'll sort it out for ya! Oh yeah, you'll need to have Broadband really it's a 5.5 meg file
Dave.
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
-
Darth_1100S
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 9:22 pm
- Location: It has a pier but it it ain't Blackpool or Brighton
- Contact:
Hi pev
Firstly,how old is your bike?
Is it under warranty still?
I very much doubt it will be the rear bevel carrier bearing mate.Unless your really unlucky!
It sounds like your rear pivot bearings need adjusting.Do a search and all should be revealed on how to detect if that is the case and how to change or adjust the bearings.
If you have problems finding or understanding the job,then i will go through it with you step by step.
gus
Firstly,how old is your bike?
Is it under warranty still?
I very much doubt it will be the rear bevel carrier bearing mate.Unless your really unlucky!
It sounds like your rear pivot bearings need adjusting.Do a search and all should be revealed on how to detect if that is the case and how to change or adjust the bearings.
If you have problems finding or understanding the job,then i will go through it with you step by step.
gus
Hi Gus,
The bikes not 6 yrs old yet and has only done 6,700 miles. It is just a matter of adjustment rather than any bearings gone but I was interested in seeing the Mpeg out of interest. I have the service manual on CD but it refers to quite a few specialist BMW tools which I'm sure most people don't have access to and must manage to do the job without them.
I'd appreciate any info you can give me on adjusting the play in the rear wheel. Thanks for you help
Pev
The bikes not 6 yrs old yet and has only done 6,700 miles. It is just a matter of adjustment rather than any bearings gone but I was interested in seeing the Mpeg out of interest. I have the service manual on CD but it refers to quite a few specialist BMW tools which I'm sure most people don't have access to and must manage to do the job without them.
I'd appreciate any info you can give me on adjusting the play in the rear wheel. Thanks for you help
Pev
Hi pev
Right,i reckon the pivot bearings need adjusting.
First off you need these tools.
30mm 1/2 inch drive socket(impact one would be best)
12mm 1/2 inch drive hex head
1/2 drive breaker bar
torque wrench which can be set to 7nm and 160 nm.
locktite
heat gun(depending on how much locktite has been applied)
bearing grease.(might be wise to relube,as they dont put much on at factory)
Get the rear of the bike off the floor.
remove rear wheel.
the pivot pins are the big 12mm hex heads which connect the paralever/swing arm to the rear bevel box.
There is a 30mm locknut which needs to be undone first.You will need the breaker bar for this as it is very tight.Too tight,try a little heat to soften locktite.remove locknut.
Now if you only want to adjust you can back out the adjusting pin(the one which had the locknut on)and clean off any remaining locktite.
Tighten adjusting pin to 7nm.
reinstall locknut with a little lockitite and tighten to 160nm.
reinstall rear wheel.
If your want to regrease the bearings then you need to remove the fixed pin on the other side of the paralever/swingarm.
you can support the bevel box with a suitable piece of wood whilst doing this.
Undo 12mm hex fixed pivot pin.May need heat if too tight(be careful of paint,be gentle)
remove both pivot pins.
Get a fair amount of grease and stick it in the holes where the pivot pins came out of.The bearings are located in the bevel box so use your finger and get it right in there.
Lube fixed pin where bearing seats and reinstall.Be carefull to realign pin correctly inside bearing.Tighten to 160nm with locktite.
Lube adjusting pin and tighten to 7nm.
Install locknut and tighten to 160nm with a little locktite.
reinstall wheel.
the job is a little more involved if you have to replace pivot bearings as you need to remove bevel box and drift out bearings.But this shouldnt be the case with the mileage on your bike.
If you aint got the tools or are not too sure about doing the job,then if you can get to brum i would be glad to do them with you at mine.
gus
Right,i reckon the pivot bearings need adjusting.
First off you need these tools.
30mm 1/2 inch drive socket(impact one would be best)
12mm 1/2 inch drive hex head
1/2 drive breaker bar
torque wrench which can be set to 7nm and 160 nm.
locktite
heat gun(depending on how much locktite has been applied)
bearing grease.(might be wise to relube,as they dont put much on at factory)
Get the rear of the bike off the floor.
remove rear wheel.
the pivot pins are the big 12mm hex heads which connect the paralever/swing arm to the rear bevel box.
There is a 30mm locknut which needs to be undone first.You will need the breaker bar for this as it is very tight.Too tight,try a little heat to soften locktite.remove locknut.
Now if you only want to adjust you can back out the adjusting pin(the one which had the locknut on)and clean off any remaining locktite.
Tighten adjusting pin to 7nm.
reinstall locknut with a little lockitite and tighten to 160nm.
reinstall rear wheel.
If your want to regrease the bearings then you need to remove the fixed pin on the other side of the paralever/swingarm.
you can support the bevel box with a suitable piece of wood whilst doing this.
Undo 12mm hex fixed pivot pin.May need heat if too tight(be careful of paint,be gentle)
remove both pivot pins.
Get a fair amount of grease and stick it in the holes where the pivot pins came out of.The bearings are located in the bevel box so use your finger and get it right in there.
Lube fixed pin where bearing seats and reinstall.Be carefull to realign pin correctly inside bearing.Tighten to 160nm with locktite.
Lube adjusting pin and tighten to 7nm.
Install locknut and tighten to 160nm with a little locktite.
reinstall wheel.
the job is a little more involved if you have to replace pivot bearings as you need to remove bevel box and drift out bearings.But this shouldnt be the case with the mileage on your bike.
If you aint got the tools or are not too sure about doing the job,then if you can get to brum i would be glad to do them with you at mine.
gus
Hi Gus,
I appreciate your help and info but I am a little confused. I expected to have adjust the taper roller bearing on the crown wheel to take out the play which is there when I rock the rear wheel. Looking at the exploded of the rear drive view in the repair manual I can't see how the pivot pins adjust the bearings. Although I have a good set of tools I may take you up on your offer as I am not too sure if this play is normal or not but I wouldn't expect there to be any play at all in the wheel. It seems that reading through all the threads on the subject even bikes for sale in the Dealers have excess play in the rear wheels. Maybe ignorance is bliss but I'd rather be thorough with the maintenance. I'll certainly be changing the bevel box oil every time I change the engine oil & filter from now on.
Pev
I appreciate your help and info but I am a little confused. I expected to have adjust the taper roller bearing on the crown wheel to take out the play which is there when I rock the rear wheel. Looking at the exploded of the rear drive view in the repair manual I can't see how the pivot pins adjust the bearings. Although I have a good set of tools I may take you up on your offer as I am not too sure if this play is normal or not but I wouldn't expect there to be any play at all in the wheel. It seems that reading through all the threads on the subject even bikes for sale in the Dealers have excess play in the rear wheels. Maybe ignorance is bliss but I'd rather be thorough with the maintenance. I'll certainly be changing the bevel box oil every time I change the engine oil & filter from now on.
Pev
-
Darth_1100S
- Posts: 545
- Joined: Wed Mar 03, 2004 9:22 pm
- Location: It has a pier but it it ain't Blackpool or Brighton
- Contact:
Sorry, I don't have the Mpeg on my file any more, I swapped my 1100S for a VFR800 last September (good move!)
The play you have at that mileage is almost certainly due to the pivot bearings at the bevel box end. You can adjust them if you like but they'll go completely within the next 1000 miles, you're best just replacing them from the outset. I've seen play in these bearings at even lower mileages than yours, due to the fact they ain't big nenough for the job and they have very little grease in them from the factory. If it's any consolation they are easy enough to replace as long as you have a couple of good torque wrenches, an electric heat gun and a fookin' great breaker bar to undo the old pins
Because your bike is quite old with so little mileage I'd check the rear oil seals in the bevel box as well, these bikes like to be used - a lot. If they're left standing for long periods of inactivity the seals will perish and oil will piss out of the bevel box and the end of the gearbox. If there is the slightest sign of oil in the rubber boot you'll ned to replace the seals.
Enjoy the 1100S, it's a great bike but the build quality is crap.
Dave R
The play you have at that mileage is almost certainly due to the pivot bearings at the bevel box end. You can adjust them if you like but they'll go completely within the next 1000 miles, you're best just replacing them from the outset. I've seen play in these bearings at even lower mileages than yours, due to the fact they ain't big nenough for the job and they have very little grease in them from the factory. If it's any consolation they are easy enough to replace as long as you have a couple of good torque wrenches, an electric heat gun and a fookin' great breaker bar to undo the old pins
Because your bike is quite old with so little mileage I'd check the rear oil seals in the bevel box as well, these bikes like to be used - a lot. If they're left standing for long periods of inactivity the seals will perish and oil will piss out of the bevel box and the end of the gearbox. If there is the slightest sign of oil in the rubber boot you'll ned to replace the seals.
Enjoy the 1100S, it's a great bike but the build quality is crap.
Dave R
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you tried.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 121 guests