www.boxertrix.com

Anyone had this done? Mine is starting to slip after a long run. Mike at Overland and Adventure reckons close to £1000. A bit cheaper if you just replace the friction plate but at 107,000 miles it would probably be wise to do it all.
This could be the deciding factor in the demise of the Humbug due to the likelihood of other issues cropping up at that mileage.
At least the rear Ohlins is good

It’s a lot of money but surely that and possibly another £500 on bits and bobs (verses thousands on a replacement bike) over the next couple of years is worth it. Still a great bike.

Certainly another way of looking at it. The 12S is all the bike I need considering I have the extortionately expensive panniers for touring, Ohlins for the track days and a relatively rare paint job which makes it stand out. I just don't want it to become a money pit that I come to hate as it lets me down.
Already had a couple of mornings where the sidestand switch and the gear position indicator have let me down and left me with a car journey and a late start.

If you really like the bike and feel some sort of relationship has developed then repair and maintain ....if you have the practical skills, mindset and time it will be a rewarding thing to take on board. However if time and space are an issue buy a modern bike, exciting which ever path you choose. Win Win.

Chris

Hi Humbug

Interested to hear if you came to any decision re clutch, have to agree with Chris`s comments, if you really like the bike ( and when I saw it, it did look bloody good to be fair ) then repair etc.
A shiny new bike is all well and good but your looking north of 14K these days for something of similar er.....niceness..... that`s alot of clutch`s

cheers H

Hi Hayden
Its still in the air at the moment, I have not had a chance to test ride it to confirm my fears. My main concern is the rest of the bike at 107.5K, whats next to go? I have however changed discs, shaft, oil cooler, suspension, covered the seats and changed the front wheel bearings 5 times so there can't be much else to go wrong.
I have had such a blast with the bike touring, track days and just general hooning about, its difficult to think of anything doing everything as well.
Maybe another 12S is on the cards, I have the panniers, carbon hugger, Ohlins

A clutch is a normal wear item , 100k is good going , and even if its on the second one its still cheap riding , I would do the full kit when your in that far , and just do a plate next time , after all you dont know what the last guy in there did .
It only hurts for a short time , having said that if you own a box of spanners its a long job but not that bad to do yourself.

Hi Humbug

"Maybe another 12S is on the cards, I have the panniers, carbon hugger, Ohlins"

Ah Ha....obvious really, the perfect solution..

cheers H

Well, went for a spin today of about 150 miles to see what was going on. No clutch slip at all in any gear but when riding for a few miles on fast A roads without gear changes, the lever was close to the bar when making the first few changes but moved out after two or three. Not losing any fluid in the reservoir at all so difficult to see that air has got into the system. Can this be bled from the slave at all?

Yes.

seals in the master cylinder would give you the symptoms , but a quick bleed is the starting point , fresh fluid may make all the difference , especially if the old stuff is a dirty looking color .

Going to try that but have decided that the bike is going due to not having sufficient time to carry out all the bits. Put new fork seals in and new battery at the weekend so if anyone is looking for a project

Hopefully not too late.

I had a GSXR1100 that had clutch slip when it got warm. It turned out to be the (very old) fluid had lots of moisture in it, which presumably was building up pressure when hot, and changing it put it back to normal.

Everyone changes the brake fluid but never the clutch fluid.

Maybe worth a try?

Going to be changing the fluid this week hopefully covid permitting.
It has been done but in 2019 which apparently should be fine due to the fact that you cannot use clutch fluid in the 12S clutch but must use a special mineral oil which lasts longer. Using normal clutch fluid will damage the system, BMW released a guidance document on this. Blood Red is the fluid of choice but you can use Shimano hydraulic fluid and Castrol LHM or LHM+

Changed the fluid today. Should have done it earlier! First release of the bleed nipple saw a great bubble of air into the tube. The new fluid flushed through showed how bad the old fluid was. Clutch lever as it should be now so happy that seems to be resolved.