www.boxertrix.com

My R11S has an intermitent Neutral light issue.

Although physcally in Neutral (defo not in gear) there is no light.

Have had a read, and need to check some bits...
- dash lamp
- loom to dash

I did some searching, and it appears that these bikes have a potentiometer rather than a switch for neutral position.
I found some threads about this, but most talked about R12S.

- Does the R11S have the same pot. setup?

Also read that if its the pot. then replacement is a PITA, one person mentioning that the swing arm has to be slide off the shaft to allow access...the same person also mentioned that there are various models under the same p/n meaning it can be a bit of a minefield to get the right one.

Hoping that the issue is a simple fix (lamp / broken wire), but wondered if anyone had some pointers to steer my triage in the right direction.

Also - the bike has an intermittent starting issue. It's like the kill switch is in the wrong position (when it's not). Wondering if this could be related to the neutral light issue, as its one of the key elements in the "safe" start seq (ie if in gear will not allow start).

UPDATE / EDIT
Found this via a parts fiche and Motorworks search:
https://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop ... rch=SEARCH

You can certainy get the neutral light switch off the retainer because I just tried it. Will be major PITA to get it back on but it's definitely doable.

Pete. wrote:You can certainy get the neutral light switch off the retainer because I just tried it. Will be major PITA to get it back on but it's definitely doable.

Thanks Pete,

Do you happen to know if the R11S is a pot type Neutral or a switch type (yes I know a pot is sort of a switch )

Yeah it's a rotary switch from what I can see. I never had to take one apart.

Here's a photo of mine with the clip I released using very long nosed pliers. I didn't remove it fully because I didn't want the headache of getting it back into place. I suggest holding the clip ends in with a tiny wire or zip tie to aid re-fitting.

It's really easy to remove. Just clamp both tiny metal studs with a zip tie and then pull the switch backwards.
The connector is purple/yellow and located on the left of the battery tray.

Once removed, you can open the switch to clean the contact (the cylindrical cap is just clipped on the base). However, be super careful when opening it, because there are tiny parts inside (spring and ball) ready to fly around the room.

Reassembly is as easy as removal. Just check carefully the alignment of the flat section of the switch axle with the flat on the gearbox shaft.

A trick I have used when taking apart things with springs and ball bearings in is to do it in a large transparent plastic bag.
Anyithing which flys out is captured without a 3 hour workshop search.

Very good trick indeed.

SP250 wrote:A trick I have used when taking apart things with springs and ball bearings in is to do it in a large transparent plastic bag.
Anyithing which flys out is captured without a 3 hour workshop search.

Genious!!

Thanks all.

I'll check cabling at the same time...

Photo looks worse than it is I think, having looking at the same on my bike.

Will await some drier days before attacking the job!

I've got contact cleaner spray for the clean up...ACF50 before putting back together to keep it tip-top once reassembled??