SPECIAL 30MM SOCKET
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 5:01 pm
HI ALL, - Need to beg-borrow-steal or even buy a 30mm socket with the cutout!? any pointers - Thanks -kev
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SPECIAL 30MM SOCKET
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Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 5:42 pm
Is this for the final drive pivots?
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 6:10 pm
I have a 30mm socket without the cut out which you are free to borrow.
If it is essential to have the cut out i can get it machined for you.
No doubt it could be useful to others.
Just let me know oh and I am in Slough
If it is essential to have the cut out i can get it machined for you.
No doubt it could be useful to others.
Just let me know oh and I am in Slough
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 8:25 pm
I've got the Laser tool to adjust swingarm pivot. Is that what you're after?
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:17 pm
Pete. wrote:Is this for the final drive pivots?
yes replacing the bevelbox
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 9:19 pm
Boxadog 2000 wrote:I have a 30mm socket without the cut out which you are free to borrow.
If it is essential to have the cut out i can get it machined for you.
No doubt it could be useful to others.
Just let me know oh and I am in Slough
Thanks the cutout is essential as a 12mm allen key works in conjunction with the 30mm socket if you could machine this please let me know there is no hurry as ive still to a get replacement bevelbox
Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 9:59 pm
they are on e bay at 12 quid ,,, bargain ,
i bought a snap on socket and machined it , jus cos its nicer in my box.
if you use a marker you can get away without the socket , by marking the adjuster and the frame , but for twelve quid , just buy a cheapie ,,,
ill lend you mine if it helps , but the post would be more than e bay price , hth
i bought a snap on socket and machined it , jus cos its nicer in my box.
if you use a marker you can get away without the socket , by marking the adjuster and the frame , but for twelve quid , just buy a cheapie ,,,
ill lend you mine if it helps , but the post would be more than e bay price , hth
Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 11:03 pm
good advice.
Posted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 11:33 pm
It's not possible to just use a ring spanner?
Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 9:08 am
its the torque setting that spoils the ring spanner , plus it would need to be slim walled ,,, sockets handy enough ,,
Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 10:38 am
Seems odd that the lock nut should require the use of a torque wrench when the really critical part - the bearing pre-load - should be left to just using an allen key by hand. I would submit that the allen key should be the part that is carefully torqued and the locknut can be hand-tightened with the threadlock applied.
Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:17 pm
yep , you could ,,,, but you would be wrong .
well thats what the manual says , so it must be true , although i will admit i torqued mine up on the light side , however the two settings work together , these germans know their stuff.
well thats what the manual says , so it must be true , although i will admit i torqued mine up on the light side , however the two settings work together , these germans know their stuff.
Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 6:33 pm
dysondiver wrote: these germans know their stuff.
No, Sorry - Their sausages are the wurst!
![[smilie=mutley laugh.gif]](./images/smilies/mutley laugh.gif "mutley laugh")
(I'm here all week............ )
Al
Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 11:10 pm
dysondiver wrote:yep , you could ,,,, but you would be wrong .
well thats what the manual says , so it must be true , although i will admit i torqued mine up on the light side , however the two settings work together , these germans know their stuff.
If I am wrong and the Germans know their stuff why you did it different anyway?
Posted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 12:56 pm
as i wasnt dealing with brand new parts , and a torque wrench that hasnt been calibrated in thirty years , and im not german , thought best to air on the side of caution , 