www.boxertrix.com

I've had a search through the forums but nothing seems to be exactly descriptive of this problem:

2003 twin spark ABS 1100S; starts cold, runs fine for about half a mile, then starts to cough and splutter before conking out. Smells of petrol but no obvious leak.

Tries to re-start, eventually does with throttle held open, runs for a little while before stopping again.

Last time it did this about a month ago it seemed to clear itself and was then fine. Today I was lucky to get home.

I'm thinking fuel filter?

Any clues?

Thank you, and Happy New Year to you.

my corrado did something similar , ran perfect cold , then went lumpy and drank gallons of fuel as it warmed , about 6 to the gallon , it was a bad lambda sensor ,,, the quick test was just unplug it , and see how it runs , as the brain only listens to the lambda as the car warms ,,, so maybe try just unplugging the lambda ,,, its worth a try , and its cheap. hth

Thanks DD, I've been doing some research and it sounds very much as though may the the Hall effect sensor.

Does anyone have any experience of changing one?

I found a video on Youtube, but it shows everything except taking the old one out and putting the new one in, and more specifically getting the old wire out and the new one in.

Just to be sure I will brush up on my midwifery skills and change the fuel filter while the tank is off...

its easy to unplug the lamda ,,, but yep halls would be next on the list , or coil , my 1150 had coil problems that i thought were hall sensor , but after much stripping and wrestling turns out to be a coil ,, tester is easy to make , just needs a led bulb , and a couple of wires ,,, but dont us a bulb , a conventional bulb draws too much current and will blow up a working halls sensor ,, and even better , you can test it without stripping the engine front off ,,, however , they also can test ok cold , and give trouble warm , infact , so can the coil ,,, not sure if any of it would show on a diagnostic tool , as ive not bought one yet ,,, gus will know though... try pm ing him.

BMbler wrote:huh... so much easier said, than done (F Filter change)

I have done it before, but I think I may have invented several new swear words in the process.

I found it was just that little bit too big to go through the hole in the underside of the tank...

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/r ... sh.439789/


worthy of a read ,,, i just used a led side light and two sewing needles as pprobes ,, just did one sensor at a time
knew id find the image of the tester , borrowed from adventure riders , great forum too

nope ,,, decent socket set ,,, maybe a 27mm spanner or socket from memory ,,, nothing i couldnt reach for out of my toolbox , or buy from halfrauds if you have to crank nut from memory , also alternator adjuster took a long 3/8 drive extension , but as i said , can be tested without stripping , i was going to make up a wee test box with the proper plug on it , just never got round to it. body work off to get to the end of the lead is the worst bit of the job , but thats just time , and a good chance to clean things when its off , if youve a warm garage , and a good kettle its grand

actually , thinking about it , that was on my 1150 , but its basically the same job

BMbler wrote:BTW, not personally checked, but in accordance to mechanic "you'd" need specific spanner (and size) to get sensor out
Good luck and keep us posted! (moderate swearing is alright)

I read some where that the rear wheel wrench fits the pulley bolt.

Sadly as my bike doesn't have a centre stand I don't have one. Obviously BMW believe that you don't need to take the back wheel off if you don't have a centre stand.

Fortunately I have plenty of sockets.

The specific tool you *would* need is something to lock the crank if you're doing the 'top dead centre' thing. Personally I like the sound of sticking it in first and putting a foot on the rear brake.

yep , that would do ,,, the rear wheel socket sounds familiar ,,, but ive a big red box of very shiney sockets i tend to prefer ,,, but the halls sensors must be ok cold or it wouldnt start ,,, not sure if the electronics would log the fault , its sounding like you need a 911 tester or some one with one ,,, ive not got one so im only taking a best guess ,,, fuel pump springs to mind too ,,, does it always start nice from cold

I did the fuel filter change on my 1150gs, full dealer service history for it's 50,000 miles.

The fuel pump was making an awful squealing racket and suspected I'd be fitting a replacement shortly, and thought I'd change the filter "just in case"

After replacing the filter the performance was much improved and the pump no longer squealed.

On checking the filter it was date stamped the year the bike was registered, so I'm guessing was the factory fit installed one! So much for dealer servicing as I think it should have had at least two in that mileage.

Out of interest I hacksawed the old one apart and you wouldn't believe the state of it inside, the main filter was all shrunk and compressed where I assume the draw from the pump had compressed it down, and the crap that was in there too.

Thing is on one of the receipts the previous owner gave me a dealer in London had charged for the fuel filter, but obviously never changed it!

dysondiver wrote:yep , that would do ,,, the rear wheel socket sounds familiar ,,, but ive a big red box of very shiney sockets i tend to prefer ,,, but the halls sensors must be ok cold or it wouldnt start ,,, not sure if the electronics would log the fault , its sounding like you need a 911 tester or some one with one ,,, ive not got one so im only taking a best guess ,,, fuel pump springs to mind too ,,, does it always start nice from cold

I'm going on what the guy says at the start of this clip, describes the symptoms perfectly...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0g5WD7C4K_0

BMbler wrote:Good find!
As saying goes about 1 vs xxx...., by making short videos of problem and solution?
just a thought...

I'm not sure I understand this post...

if only things would stay broken till you fix them , intermittent problems are the worst , hope it works out well though.

New Hall effect Sensor supplied very quickly and at a very good price on Ebay from a chap in Greece, and fitted last weekend.

It didn't take that long in the end, thanks to my engineer son (who did most of the work!)

I managed a short test ride (3 or 4 miles) to represent when the bike had started couching and spluttering yesterday and the bike seemed fine.

I will also be carrying out a service and fit a new fuel filter, plugs, filters etc. for a proper 'belt & braces' job over the next week ot two.