No ignition lights no start, good battery(?)

[markwin]

Anyone able to help with non starting r1100s.just filled up with petrol and turned on ignition and then nothing.no. Solenoid noise on starter button,no ignition lights no warning lights and no other things work ie no horn,indicators only the clock is working.there is a slight glow from the oil light with ignition on but very dim.battery shows 13.5v with ignition switc off and 4v with it on.any ideas.

[markwin]

Update.with ignition switch off the clock works but dims to nothing in a couple of seconds,also no sound from fuel pump.

[Me-109]

Sonde like a good example of the look worn through near the headstock. There have been a few reports on here of that sort of thing, but can be painstaking to trace.

[ted]

sounds like a dead cell in the battery. id try a new battery and see how it goes - i think the fact that it shows 13.5 may be a red herring, under load there seems to be next to nowt

[markwin]

Back home now , left bike at friends as went there to join him on trip to Brighton speed Trials ,offered to take me as pillion,jeez that makes me feel young again!!Just read the replies and thank you for that .Hoping that the fact that the bat shows 4v WHEN ignition is turned to the ON position is that the battery is at fault although it was replaced end of last summer .I jumped to conclusion that the battery was being drained or loaded to cause the voltage drop but couldn't reconcile that with the main fuse not blowing,also its not as easy to think straight at the time when just wanted to go somewhere.Perhaps if I substitute the battery from my other bike that should nail that suggestion? Bike is 2002 with 13000mls in good condition and kept in garage ,doesn't appear to have any corrosion on connectors so don't think its that and as absolutely nothing working APART from clock which dims when ignition is turned on (don't even get the slightest squeak from the horn although I haven't put my hand on it to feel if there is actually the slightest movement of the diaphragm).Last winter took the route of absectomy and had no trouble with that but obviously you wonder if there is a dodgy connection but again would that therefore cause the above symptoms? probably and hopefully a case of thinking the worse and convincing myself rather than keeping it simple and it being the battery.(would have thought that if the clock was working you would manage to get at least a squeak from the horn but maybe that's because with ignition on the fuel pump and start up lights are taking all the available current ,4v when on 13.4 when off? Gonna have a beer now , thanks for your help.

[ted]

knackered cells in batteries give some real strange symptoms, including all those you list. Other than the battery it might be worth checking for a break in the earth lead. Just make sure your other battery is good - it wouldnt be the first time someone has replaced a dodgy one with a slightly better but still dodgy alternative - that really does mess up the fault tracing once you are convinced its not the battery!

[markwin]

That reminds me of a story in an old car magazine about a fella that has an oil light coming on and he gets the engine rebuilt and still the oil light comes on so he gets it looked at again and of course its the switch at fault.Its easy to jump to conclusions , but until something is proved its still guess work .Will take a look at all suggestions ,as far as the ignition wiring I have given that a good prodding but still no joy but wont completely discount that until I remove the cable ties and had a proper inspection.

[nab 301]

I had a call recently from a relative with a non starting car . Battery appeared dead and I couldn't even jump start it. I had a spare battery and substituted it , car was fine . charging system seemed fine with replacement battery. When I got home I put the old battery on charge , later on it had full voltage and the smart charger suggested it was ok, but would drop to zero with just a 21 watt bulb across the terminals.. verdict , battery shagged

[markwin]

These batteries seem pretty pesky , non starting issue was instant , absolutely no prior warning like sluggish turnover on start up so perhaps its a case of just getting to a critical point regarding sulphation and the battery immediately goes kaput. Will give an update later in the week.Taken note of jump starting as was going to do that as its easier than temp replacing so if jumping doesn't work will affix terminals to substitute to ensure if battery or not.

[ted]

i think you will find if its a dead cell just jump starting might not work

[bikerboy]

Fuses - starter solenoid?! Or even the starter motor, mine failed on the starter but only after spending £300 on
Staeter relay, battery, finally new starter motor

[markwin]

Thanks Ted , on prev reply you suggested that and it was something I was unaware of,so if jump starting didn't work was going to connect substitute battery properly rather than using as a boost-having said that think I am going to bite the bullet and order new battery tomorrow as the bike is several miles away at friends garage...that should ensure its something else!!!Had a look on other sites and pretty much all point to whats been said on here ,not that I had any doubts of the expertise/experience of this forum.Will post results almost as soon as I know..

[markwin]

Don't think starter solenoid in this instance due to the other symptoms presented .

[markwin]

All now sorted .New battery,all good.Thanks to all for time taken to post suggestions.as had replaced battery one year previously and no warning symptoms thought the worst .

[dysondiver]

just out of curiosity , which battery did you opt for , i nearly bought an odyssey , but bought a yusa and a sterling power trickle charger restorer etc ,,, happy with it so far.