I have broken/intermittant connections at the ignition switch. Wiggle the wiring where it enters the switch and the engine dies. Turn full left lock and the engine dies.
I've searched the archive.
How does the electrical part of the switch come off? Do I have to drill the tamperproof bolts that hold the lock in place?
Does the other end plug into the l/h relay box?
Ta, Mark
Ignition Switch Removal
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
Ignition Switch Removal
Why do cheap bikes never end up that way?
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boxerscott
- Posts: 3718
- Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:07 pm
- Location: scottish borders
- Contact:
The ignition barrel is removed by drilling out the tamper proof bolts. Bench drill and clamps needed and mucho patience. I know I have done it. Like everything else on these muckle lumps nothing gives itself up easy 
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
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boxerscott
- Posts: 3718
- Joined: Sat Apr 21, 2007 5:07 pm
- Location: scottish borders
- Contact:
I had to replace my ignition barrel cos of a knackered fuel tank lock, so I bought a whole lock set from a salvager. never looked too close at how the harness detaches from the barrel but guessing I would say it wont give up easy. Check and see if a barrel harness is a spare part, if it is then I guess it will come out
Fiat Panda.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
Fiat Scudo (with speedblock, pipe carrier, reversing sensors, reversing camera, tow bar, some new rust and Fake Plumber logo)
started out with nothing, still have most of it left.
ignition switch
I think you will find there is a hidden grub screw part way down the side of the barrel, the hole is filled with some 'soft' material you have scrap out to see the screw. Take the screw out and the electrical part of the barrel will pull away. The other end just unplugs from one of the electrical pods.
Its never easy !!!!
mark
Its never easy !!!!
mark
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As posted above - pick out the red sealer covering the tiny hole.
Unscrew the tiny grub screw. Pull out the electrical section fron the bottom of ignition barrel.
And i see mentioned about drilling out the security screws that hold the ignition unit to the top yolk. No need.
Drill a 4mm hole 4-6mm deep, then hit a torq bit into the hole you've drilled and undo the bolt in the normal way. You can even re-use it.
Unscrew the tiny grub screw. Pull out the electrical section fron the bottom of ignition barrel.
And i see mentioned about drilling out the security screws that hold the ignition unit to the top yolk. No need.
Drill a 4mm hole 4-6mm deep, then hit a torq bit into the hole you've drilled and undo the bolt in the normal way. You can even re-use it.
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bikerboy
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bikerboy
Here's the new part I bought from Motorworks. ELA06361 @ £76.06.
I bought a spare grub screw as well, just in case, ELA62821 @ 0.43.
I managed without needing the grub screw. If I hadn't bought one, I'd probably have needed it though!
Bit of a fiddly job but not complicated. Find a well-fitting screwdriver for the grub screw. Otherwise just a 'remove and replace'.
Looking at the old unit it was clear that the wire had been corroding for a long time before it gave up the ghost.
Mk
I bought a spare grub screw as well, just in case, ELA62821 @ 0.43.
I managed without needing the grub screw. If I hadn't bought one, I'd probably have needed it though!
Bit of a fiddly job but not complicated. Find a well-fitting screwdriver for the grub screw. Otherwise just a 'remove and replace'.
Looking at the old unit it was clear that the wire had been corroding for a long time before it gave up the ghost.
Mk
Why do cheap bikes never end up that way?
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bikerboy
[quote="Bruno"]Here's the new part I bought from Motorworks. ELA06361 @ £76.06.
I bought a spare grub screw as well, just in case, ELA62821 @ 0.43.
I managed without needing the grub screw. If I hadn't bought one, I'd probably have needed it though!
Bit of a fiddly job but not complicated. Find a well-fitting screwdriver for the grub screw. Otherwise just a 'remove and replace'.
Looking at the old unit it was clear that the wire had been corroding for a long time before it gave up the ghost.
TRY buying a new one now !
I bought a spare grub screw as well, just in case, ELA62821 @ 0.43.
I managed without needing the grub screw. If I hadn't bought one, I'd probably have needed it though!
Bit of a fiddly job but not complicated. Find a well-fitting screwdriver for the grub screw. Otherwise just a 'remove and replace'.
Looking at the old unit it was clear that the wire had been corroding for a long time before it gave up the ghost.
TRY buying a new one now !
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