Chaps, I know that the answer is on here somewhere but my mobile connection isn’t great being lost in darkest Germany. The old shoulders are a tadge sore so I’m enjoying a free coffee at Bonn BMW.
I just asked them to raise the bars for me to above the yoke. Below is fine for a blast but not for the longer rides.
The Tech showed me where the screw is below the bar. He says that once the bars are above, that it can’t be tighter so the bars can flop around. He says it can be dangerous so I’m wondering what the answer is?
Any help appreciated. Danke.
To raise or not to raise?
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
Re: To raise or not to raise?
Neil
The BMW Tech is technically correct, but as the fork tube is gripped by the top yoke clamping bolt and the handlebars are gripping the same tube but now above the yoke, they stay put.
The only possibility for them to twist around is if you drop the bike and the bar hits the ground.
Mine have been above the yokes for 5 years now and not moved a millimetre without the security bolt.
I think Motobins or Motorworks do a milled ali piece which uses both threaded holes (under yoke and on bars and two bolts) to lock the bars back at the original angle and gives the "Dropped Bike" security from twisting.
Just get him to do it and add the extra pieces if you want when you get home.
The BMW Tech is technically correct, but as the fork tube is gripped by the top yoke clamping bolt and the handlebars are gripping the same tube but now above the yoke, they stay put.
The only possibility for them to twist around is if you drop the bike and the bar hits the ground.
Mine have been above the yokes for 5 years now and not moved a millimetre without the security bolt.
I think Motobins or Motorworks do a milled ali piece which uses both threaded holes (under yoke and on bars and two bolts) to lock the bars back at the original angle and gives the "Dropped Bike" security from twisting.
Just get him to do it and add the extra pieces if you want when you get home.
John M
Re: To raise or not to raise?
Agree with sp250 I had mine above for 3-4 years no issues.
Al.
Al.
White/red BMW R1200R Sport
Shiny Red Honda Civic
Shiny Silver MR2 vvti Roadster. Going to be sold
White Peugeot Boxer Camper Conversion.
Battle scarred Suzuki Burgman 125,(Mrs Als) going to be sold
Suzuki VanVan 125
Shiny Red Honda Civic
Shiny Silver MR2 vvti Roadster. Going to be sold
White Peugeot Boxer Camper Conversion.
Battle scarred Suzuki Burgman 125,(Mrs Als) going to be sold
Suzuki VanVan 125
Re: To raise or not to raise?
My bike came with comfort bars which have a peg on the bottom that locates in the top yoke when mounted above it , except they've spent most of the last 15 yrs mounted below the top yoke !. Once the clip ons are torqued properly there shouldn't be a problem
_________________
Nigel
Keep smiling, it makes people wonder what you've been up to!
1999 R1100s (mandarin) '
2018 DL 250V Strom
2019 CB125F Honda.
MZ301 Saxon Fun ( currently retired)
'03 Bullet 65 project..
Nigel
Keep smiling, it makes people wonder what you've been up to!
1999 R1100s (mandarin) '
2018 DL 250V Strom
2019 CB125F Honda.
MZ301 Saxon Fun ( currently retired)
'03 Bullet 65 project..
Re: To raise or not to raise?
Thanks guys, that gives me the confidence to crack on. I don’t think the dealer will do it so I’ll just buy the tools I need. Thanks for the details John.
I also bought a kit to lower the foot pegs but I got the runaround from the guy drilling out a snapped bolt for me so I ran out of time before I left home. I should’ve stuffed it in my bag but it’s a bit late now!
Getting older is a pain eh?
I also bought a kit to lower the foot pegs but I got the runaround from the guy drilling out a snapped bolt for me so I ran out of time before I left home. I should’ve stuffed it in my bag but it’s a bit late now!
Getting older is a pain eh?
Re: To raise or not to raise?
Neil
If you are doing the job yourself, be careful when you slide the fork tubes down out of the top yoke to get the Hbar off, as the bike will collapse as having no front suspension. Pull up on the bars for full extension and have a buddy stick blocks or a jack under the sump or a bar through where the fairing panels were (and a saw stand each side) to hold the front of the bike up. Tricky job if you are solo.
Good luck
If you are doing the job yourself, be careful when you slide the fork tubes down out of the top yoke to get the Hbar off, as the bike will collapse as having no front suspension. Pull up on the bars for full extension and have a buddy stick blocks or a jack under the sump or a bar through where the fairing panels were (and a saw stand each side) to hold the front of the bike up. Tricky job if you are solo.
Good luck
John M
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Re: To raise or not to raise?
SP250 wrote:Neil
If you are doing the job yourself, be careful when you slide the fork tubes down out of the top yoke to get the Hbar off, as the bike will collapse as having no front suspension. Pull up on the bars for full extension and have a buddy stick blocks or a jack under the sump or a bar through where the fairing panels were (and a saw stand each side) to hold the front of the bike up. Tricky job if you are solo.
Good luck
Or just do them one side at a time, they will just twist a little then which makes it a little more awkward, but still easy enough.
2001 BMW R1100S (Merecat)
2008 Vespa GTS300 (Bianca)
2008 Vespa GTS300 (Bianca)
Re: To raise or not to raise?
Ah, I just saw your advice John. After the event, but all went well thankfully. I cracked on before leaving my hotel this am.
I was a bit unsure about doing it but in for a Euro...
I remembered that there is a tool kit under the seat and it did me proud. Smaller hex key for the bottom hidden bolts (damn threadlock) and a bigger hex key for the main bolts.
I did the right side first and the bike got the wobbles right enough. Thankfully I didn’t do both at the same time. A collapsed bike would have seen me use my AA Europe breakdown cover as I hit the beers. 2 of these German beers and I’m away. What do they put in it?
I had to release the brake pipe P clips to give slightly more on the hoses - tool kit.
Ditto the horn - 10 mm spanner in tool kit.
Well, the comfort difference is just what I was looking for. I must admit that the first few miles I was nervous is case the bars slipped. I used the box spanner (let’s hear it for the tool kit!) to get the bolts as tight as possible.
I just need to address the footpeg position now but that’s another thread.
Thanks guys for all your helpful postings. I’m having a beer for you!
I was a bit unsure about doing it but in for a Euro...
I remembered that there is a tool kit under the seat and it did me proud. Smaller hex key for the bottom hidden bolts (damn threadlock) and a bigger hex key for the main bolts.
I did the right side first and the bike got the wobbles right enough. Thankfully I didn’t do both at the same time. A collapsed bike would have seen me use my AA Europe breakdown cover as I hit the beers. 2 of these German beers and I’m away. What do they put in it?
I had to release the brake pipe P clips to give slightly more on the hoses - tool kit.
Ditto the horn - 10 mm spanner in tool kit.
Well, the comfort difference is just what I was looking for. I must admit that the first few miles I was nervous is case the bars slipped. I used the box spanner (let’s hear it for the tool kit!) to get the bolts as tight as possible.
I just need to address the footpeg position now but that’s another thread.
Thanks guys for all your helpful postings. I’m having a beer for you!
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