Remus exhaust fitting problem.

[HarrisBikeNut]

Not long fitted a Full Remus exhaust system with twin pipes to the silencers. Was sure the cans were not sitting far enough back on the pins under the rear of the bike and couldn't get the exhaust springs on as the distance was too great. Copious amounts of wriggling, gentle tapping with a rubber mallet, lubing with Copaslip hasn't helped. Anyone fitted the same system? Should I build it from the rear of the bike forwards? Do I need to twist the individual exhaust pipe into each silencer? A short test run yesterday (as it was dry) led to the cans coming off of the mounting pins when I got back home.

[kfrogzx7]

I've just bought a Remus "from the headers back" system but I haven't even received it yet, and won't be fitting it till at least the new year I suppose.
Have you made any progress fitting yours now, I'd be interested in any tips / conclusions you can pass on ?

[HarrisBikeNut]

No joy as yet. Intending to have a look tomorrow. Will message again once I have some more information!

[Mitch1100]

Remove tail light assembly to push the mufflers up high enough to engage the mounting fingers properly. Removed both seat side panels and then removed the rear body panel which houses the tail light to get the mufflers up higher to engage the mounting fingers.

[adam]

Build the system from the headers back, and make sure that it all hangs freely on the fixings, otherwise it may lead to fractures if it's under the slightest tension (certain grades of stainless steel can be quite prone to this) To ensure a can doesn't slide off a header, you can drill a 3mm hole through the join, countersink the hole in the can, and fit a very short countersunk rivet/pin/dowel etc. The clamp then goes over this and holds it in place. Just remember to remove it before attempting to remove the can

[HarrisBikeNut]

Okey Cokey!!!! -latest update and pleased to report success!!!

What did I learn?
1. It's a bit of a ball ache
2. I removed (as per advice received via the thread posted) the rear hugger, side panels and rear light assembly. All easy to do.
3. I also removed the cans and two pipes from the Y piece.
4. I opened up both the ends of the two pipes where the bolts for tightening are and the ends of the cans to give more movement.
5. Copious amounts of copaslip on pipes and silencers and red rubber grease on the rubber mounting cushions on the cans and the two mounting pins was applied.
6. Visibility to see if the cans are located on the pins is "difficult" shall we say. A small torch is a good idea.
7. I had to lift the cans higher than I thought I ended to to get everything to line up. The flared nature of the entry into the cans doesn't help.
8. Once everything is lubed and lined up (trial and error was needed here) the pipes went on helped by gentle use of a rubber mallet. Wiggling the pipes up and down plus side to side helps. Copious use of F*+k, S*+t and b*^^+*^s didn't help strangely!
9. Once fitted, the two brackets for the springs holding the cans to the pipes are approximately 87-88mm apart centre to centre.
10. The tightening bolt for the curved exhaust pipe is close to the bottom bolt head for the rear shock while its tightened up but is clear once tightened.
11. Locate the cans on the two pipes slightly so the cans can engage with the two mounting pins. Lift the cans up higher than you might imagine is necessary and wiggle, twist and push forwards. It's a god idea to leave the bike in gear or with the front wheel against a wall in case you push too hard. I was always worried the bike might move off of its side stand.

Thanks to members who offered advice! It's worth the effort - system looks great and sounds luverly!

[Mitch1100]

[kfrogzx7]

Okey Cokey!!!! -latest update and pleased to report success!!!

What did I learn?
1. It's a bit of a ball ache
2. I removed (as per advice received via the thread posted) the rear hugger, side panels and rear light assembly. All easy to do.
3. I also removed the cans and two pipes from the Y piece.
4. I opened up both the ends of the two pipes where the bolts for tightening are and the ends of the cans to give more movement.
5. Copious amounts of copaslip on pipes and silencers and red rubber grease on the rubber mounting cushions on the cans and the two mounting pins was applied.
6. Visibility to see if the cans are located on the pins is "difficult" shall we say. A small torch is a good idea.
7. I had to lift the cans higher than I thought I ended to to get everything to line up. The flared nature of the entry into the cans doesn't help.
8. Once everything is lubed and lined up (trial and error was needed here) the pipes went on helped by gentle use of a rubber mallet. Wiggling the pipes up and down plus side to side helps. Copious use of F*+k, S*+t and b*^^+*^s didn't help strangely!
9. Once fitted, the two brackets for the springs holding the cans to the pipes are approximately 87-88mm apart centre to centre.
10. The tightening bolt for the curved exhaust pipe is close to the bottom bolt head for the rear shock while its tightened up but is clear once tightened.
11. Locate the cans on the two pipes slightly so the cans can engage with the two mounting pins. Lift the cans up higher than you might imagine is necessary and wiggle, twist and push forwards. It's a god idea to leave the bike in gear or with the front wheel against a wall in case you push too hard. I was always worried the bike might move off of its side stand.

Thanks to members who offered advice! It's worth the effort - system looks great and sounds luverly!

Thanks HBN, I spent Sat stripping my Dyson down and getting the old system off, I've got a lot of other servicing and fettling jobs ( Goodridge / Nitron / SS fixings / tyres ) to do before I fit my Remus but I'll refer to your travails when I do.
BTW my Remus ( 2rd hd ebay ) is supposedly road legal, but you can see straight thru' the end cans ( ) and nowhere can I find any EC code etched or stamped on them, have yours got anything on them to prove road legality ?
I'm not too bothered as I have a very friendly and "lenient" MOT tester but for peace of mind I wish they were marked ?

PS Brand new cheap Danmoto Y Piece ( not even unpacked ) available to anybody wanting to decat their 11s, will post in for sale section.