R1100S Fork Feet/Bottoms
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
I must admit - I totally missed the original 2008? thread.
An interesting project, well executed - but probably not a commercial proposition (even with the CNC codes) - I'd think.
Radial brakes look trick - but in reality do little for road bikes.
Biggest advantage is that you can easily alter brake disc diameter (assuming you can get the calipers over the discs if fitting larger)
Al
An interesting project, well executed - but probably not a commercial proposition (even with the CNC codes) - I'd think.
Radial brakes look trick - but in reality do little for road bikes.
Biggest advantage is that you can easily alter brake disc diameter (assuming you can get the calipers over the discs if fitting larger)
Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Hi guys,
Thanks for your comments and advice. I've been thinking along similar lines and was going to try an "in situ" removal of the foot as a first attempt - once the wheel and calipers are removed. I am hoping the lower fork clamp may hold the tube in place. I'll probably need to remove the fork oil filler cap to make room for expansion as I apply heat to the existing feet to enable their removal (Dave, essentially this is your approach). If this doesn't work, I'll try another approach (not sure what that would be but I'm working on it).
I had also thought about getting a trashed set of forks from a wreckers and practicing on them first. I'll do this if I can find some nearby.
In the meantime, below is the link to "Style and Performance" in Italy where I am getting these fork feet from. The guy there says it should be fairly straightforward......
At least I have plenty of time to think about it as they find their way from Italy to Tasmania.
Cheers,
Blinky
http://www.styleandperformance.it/index ... &Itemid=71
Thanks for your comments and advice. I've been thinking along similar lines and was going to try an "in situ" removal of the foot as a first attempt - once the wheel and calipers are removed. I am hoping the lower fork clamp may hold the tube in place. I'll probably need to remove the fork oil filler cap to make room for expansion as I apply heat to the existing feet to enable their removal (Dave, essentially this is your approach). If this doesn't work, I'll try another approach (not sure what that would be but I'm working on it).
I had also thought about getting a trashed set of forks from a wreckers and practicing on them first. I'll do this if I can find some nearby.
In the meantime, below is the link to "Style and Performance" in Italy where I am getting these fork feet from. The guy there says it should be fairly straightforward......
At least I have plenty of time to think about it as they find their way from Italy to Tasmania.
Cheers,
Blinky
http://www.styleandperformance.it/index ... &Itemid=71
I'd try a scrap one first.
Rig up a socket/nut which is welded to a fork which will bracket a tube fed through and clamped in the bracket.
Apply a CO2 freeze pack to the fork tube
Apply heat (under 100C) to the bracket
Apply steady pressure to unscrew the axle bracket - together with an impact hammer on the socket.
The vibration will help greatly I think.
If the above is a bit unclear - I'll knock up a thumbnail to explain my thoughts
Al
Rig up a socket/nut which is welded to a fork which will bracket a tube fed through and clamped in the bracket.
Apply a CO2 freeze pack to the fork tube
Apply heat (under 100C) to the bracket
Apply steady pressure to unscrew the axle bracket - together with an impact hammer on the socket.
The vibration will help greatly I think.
If the above is a bit unclear - I'll knock up a thumbnail to explain my thoughts
Al
If I am ever on life support - Unplug me......
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
Then plug me back in..........
See if that works .....
I would suggest to give it a try although I don't know if the clamp of the lower fork bridge is sufficient to prevent the fork-leg from turning. Have a look at the inside of the fork if there are no seals/plastic parts. You need to apply some serious heat and parts may get damaged. Hence I suggest to empty the fork-legs before going ahead ...
Let us know about your progress!
In any case you have gone the very expensive route as besides the fork parts you also need the radial brake stuff which will also cost considerable money. I have Brembo P4 calipers (used on many ducatis and Aprili mille for example) on my R12s which were once made specifically for the BMW power cup (very limited edition) using the brake pads of the S1000RR. Cost was only 400 euros plus adapted brake-lines. That was a huge improvement over stock. However these are no longer available. Unfortunately. I know of some 12S riders here in Germany who have adapted and mounted the HP2S fork legs in their 12S.
Brgds
Oliver
Let us know about your progress!
In any case you have gone the very expensive route as besides the fork parts you also need the radial brake stuff which will also cost considerable money. I have Brembo P4 calipers (used on many ducatis and Aprili mille for example) on my R12s which were once made specifically for the BMW power cup (very limited edition) using the brake pads of the S1000RR. Cost was only 400 euros plus adapted brake-lines. That was a huge improvement over stock. However these are no longer available. Unfortunately. I know of some 12S riders here in Germany who have adapted and mounted the HP2S fork legs in their 12S.
Brgds
Oliver
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SP250 wrote:Other than just to be different - one has to ask why bother?
The bike with standard brakes will already out-brake Super Sport 600's on a race track, even with the extra 50kg or 60kg weight its hauling.
Cos it's playing about in the man shed and that's good!!
'15 R1200GS TE
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
'06 R1200S
'04 BCR
Yam SR 500 long term restoration
wanna win the lottery and ride my bike
dave the german wrote:SP250 wrote:Other than just to be different - one has to ask why bother?
The bike with standard brakes will already out-brake Super Sport 600's on a race track, even with the extra 50kg or 60kg weight its hauling.
Cos it's playing about in the man shed and that's good!!
+1 with that thought!
Maybe a smattering of Everest syndrome for good measure.
It will be interesting to find out just how the two components are held tight. Surely the grubscrew alone wouldn't be enough? When you consider the kind of twisting that could be placed on these things, should you encounter a man sized pothole at speed when cranked over. Been there, got the tee shirt, but the shake it got on was violent as hell.
Look forward to finding out, courtesy of blinky!
SP250 wrote:Other than just to be different - one has to ask why bother?
The bike with standard brakes will already out-brake Super Sport 600's on a race track, even with the extra 50kg or 60kg weight its hauling.
I disagree. The stock brakes are not bad but at the same time not that durable. Particularly on the track they develop fading quickly. I have brembo P4 calipers with 4 individual pads (the one from the S1000RR) and gosh, what a difference! Braking power hugely improved and no fading ...
But the same question applies. Why do we pimp our bikes and modify our engines? No need to but we wanna be different and just because WE CAN!
Brgds
Oliver
Oliver
Imho, either you must have had a bad set, or I have a good set, because I had many trips around the 'Ring and trackdays at Oulton, Cadwell, Mallory and Anglesey without a problem.
On two Bikers Days sessions/race days at Spa, the racers were put out with us road bikes and that is how I know it outbrakes SS 600's.
I've never had fade or degredation of the system or warping discs at all.
Still have the original discs on 13 years later, just changed the pads a couple of times.
I really do "get" the men in the shed bit. Got loads of projects myself and I am interested in seeing the end result of Blinky's efforts.
Imho, either you must have had a bad set, or I have a good set, because I had many trips around the 'Ring and trackdays at Oulton, Cadwell, Mallory and Anglesey without a problem.
On two Bikers Days sessions/race days at Spa, the racers were put out with us road bikes and that is how I know it outbrakes SS 600's.
I've never had fade or degredation of the system or warping discs at all.
Still have the original discs on 13 years later, just changed the pads a couple of times.
I really do "get" the men in the shed bit. Got loads of projects myself and I am interested in seeing the end result of Blinky's efforts.
John M
Hi John, maybe you didn't brake late and hard enough?
All I can say is that those (back here in Germany) involved in racing with their 12s did either change the fork to that of the HP2S, or used radial mount adapters, or have tried to lay their hands on Brembo P4 calipers which were made specifically for the BMW powercup ... See the calipers here:
And on mine:
All I can say is that those (back here in Germany) involved in racing with their 12s did either change the fork to that of the HP2S, or used radial mount adapters, or have tried to lay their hands on Brembo P4 calipers which were made specifically for the BMW powercup ... See the calipers here:
And on mine:
Just to mention the fork bottoms from Italy cost over 1000 euros per pair right? The sliding tube of the HP2S here in Germany costs EUR 1280 EUR per pair ...
And a more cost effective solution would be this: http://www.wrs.sm/it/prodotti-wrs-attac ... 200-s.html
Brgds
Oliver
And a more cost effective solution would be this: http://www.wrs.sm/it/prodotti-wrs-attac ... 200-s.html
Brgds
Oliver
Just to confirm, the fork bottoms are 500 EUR per pair - half of what you mention. And yes, there are adapters that let you mount a radial caliper to an axial mount. I guess that opens up a new range of calipers, which was really my intent in the first place. Some will argue that still doesn't provide the advantage that the radial mount geometry has over axial mount in terms of load transfer but that's a whole other debate....
My components were posted yesterday and are on their way (along with a nice new black anodized triple clamp from the same supplier) so I'm looking forward to the process of fitting them that will unfold soon. I've still been researching removal methods for the old fork bottoms. Some of the forums for Japanese bikes go into a bit of detail but it seems we are on the right track.
More to come.
Blinky
[img][img]http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b624/richardcurtis1/EC6ECDD0-6F5D-4E9C-B8CC-06B360A5E5C1_zpsuy1bduvh.jpg[/img][/img]
My components were posted yesterday and are on their way (along with a nice new black anodized triple clamp from the same supplier) so I'm looking forward to the process of fitting them that will unfold soon. I've still been researching removal methods for the old fork bottoms. Some of the forums for Japanese bikes go into a bit of detail but it seems we are on the right track.
More to come.
Blinky
[img][img]http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b624/richardcurtis1/EC6ECDD0-6F5D-4E9C-B8CC-06B360A5E5C1_zpsuy1bduvh.jpg[/img][/img]
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- Member
- Posts: 3625
- Joined: Tue Nov 01, 2005 4:35 am
- Location: North East
Hi Team,
Fork bottoms arrived this week and look the goods! I think I'll get them powder coated before doing the install. Also ordered a pair of Beringer 4 piston calipers to go with them. Once the whole set is ready in a few weeks it will be time to do a documented and photographed install.
Can't wait.
Cheers,
Blinky
Fork bottoms arrived this week and look the goods! I think I'll get them powder coated before doing the install. Also ordered a pair of Beringer 4 piston calipers to go with them. Once the whole set is ready in a few weeks it will be time to do a documented and photographed install.
Can't wait.
Cheers,
Blinky
Hello Blinky
I can confirm your methode wil work, i did the same whith an old triple clamp in to a vice and some head aplyed you can screw the botoms of.
I did this to instal the longer gsa pipes to get to the BCR specs.
Now i am loking to have a go and mill some adaptor plates to fit R1 radial clipers.
I also have the original pipes lying here whith no botoms if your intrested.
Greets Eeuwe
I can confirm your methode wil work, i did the same whith an old triple clamp in to a vice and some head aplyed you can screw the botoms of.
I did this to instal the longer gsa pipes to get to the BCR specs.
Now i am loking to have a go and mill some adaptor plates to fit R1 radial clipers.
I also have the original pipes lying here whith no botoms if your intrested.
Greets Eeuwe
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