Bob!!

Got a technical query? Found another 0.02bhp? Ask/tell the world.

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Gromit
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Bob!!

Postby Gromit » Mon Dec 13, 2004 9:08 pm

Bob - you were on about some stuff on sunday for rejuvinating stainless, would you let me know what it was called again?? (and where I can get hold of it).

Ta. :)

Richard.

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stempy
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Postby stempy » Mon Dec 13, 2004 9:50 pm

I know that stuff, I think it was called elbow grease :wink:

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Boxadog 2000
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Postby Boxadog 2000 » Mon Dec 13, 2004 10:46 pm

Its called Metinox Pickling Fluid and it's about £40 for 1 Ltr which will last you a lifetime so you wont want to be buying a litre.

If I can find a suitable container I will let you have some of mine.

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Postby Gromit » Mon Dec 13, 2004 10:57 pm

That's brilliant Bob - if you let me know how much you'd want for a splash, I'd be really grateful. :)

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Postby Archie » Mon Dec 13, 2004 10:57 pm

Bob

What does it pickle?? I'm intrigued. You'll be telling me to clean my exhaust with gherkins next....

Alan

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Boxadog 2000
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Postby Boxadog 2000 » Tue Dec 14, 2004 7:47 pm

Ok it is as follows and you use it at your own risk, it is a commercially available product from Chemetall (Schweiz) AG part of the Nobel group (and they make explosives).

Antox Stainless Steel Pickling Paste for the treatment of corrosion-and acidresistant stainless steels (which I am not sure that the beemer pipes are) the plastic container has all of the usual hazard warnings on ie skull and cross bones corrosive to hands ferrous steel etc etc.

Basically what it does is this, it removes all of the discoloration from stainless steel if you pipes are scabby it will not remove this but it will remove all of the dis-coloration ie brown/blue/straw colours.

You end up with Mat silver stainless steel which is very easy to then polish up to a chrome like finish.

Contains 6% hydroflouric acid and 20% nitric acid feck knows what the rest is

Works fine for me saves ages on polishing

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Postby boxerpan » Tue Dec 14, 2004 8:08 pm

Boxadog 2000 wrote:Works fine for me saves ages on polishing


Says the man with with header pipes with VERY thin walls :D
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stempy
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Postby stempy » Tue Dec 14, 2004 8:37 pm

Hydroflouric acid :shock: Sod that for a game of soldiers, I think I'll stick to me pot of elbow grease.

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Postby boxerpan » Tue Dec 14, 2004 9:17 pm

stempy wrote:Hydroflouric acid :shock: Sod that for a game of soldiers, I think I'll stick to me pot of elbow grease.

It'll be ok.............if you wear welding gloves :lol:
Lloyd



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Postby Lightrunner » Wed Dec 15, 2004 9:24 am

Has anyone here tried Autosol?

I've found that works well to restor metalwork although it feels like you're doing most of the hardword.

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Postby carlk » Wed Dec 15, 2004 9:52 am

Boxadog 2000 wrote:Ok it is as follows and you use it at your own risk, it is a commercially available product from Chemetall (Schweiz) AG part of the Nobel group (and they make explosives).

Antox Stainless Steel Pickling Paste for the treatment of corrosion-and acidresistant stainless steels (which I am not sure that the beemer pipes are) the plastic container has all of the usual hazard warnings on ie skull and cross bones corrosive to hands ferrous steel etc etc.

Basically what it does is this, it removes all of the discoloration from stainless steel if you pipes are scabby it will not remove this but it will remove all of the dis-coloration ie brown/blue/straw colours.

You end up with Mat silver stainless steel which is very easy to then polish up to a chrome like finish.

Contains 6% hydroflouric acid and 20% nitric acid feck knows what the rest is

Works fine for me saves ages on polishing


Purple Alert

Hydrofluoric acid (an aqueous solution of hydrogen fluoride) is a strong mineral acid used in electroplating, metal processing and semi-conductor industries, as well as for glass etching.

Moderate hydrofluoric acid burns are not rare in occupational environments. Severe or even fatal poisonings fortunately do not occur every year.

The concentration-dependent corrosive effect that hydrofluoric acid shares with other caustics (acids and alkalies) is not its sole one: there is an additional toxic effect due to the fluoride.

A specific property of fluoride is its capacity of rapid skin penetration. The toxic effect is due to the precipitation of the available bodily calcium by the fluoride. This leads to a dramatic drop of the calcium level, essential for most vital functions.

The sequels are a profound destruction of tissues at the site of penetration. This can occur even without visible, serious skin corrosions. A strong pain after several hours is often the first sign of severe tissue damage. Massive exposures to hydrofluoric acid flood the entire organism with fluoride, pauperize the calcium in the body fluids and rapidly provoke severe, often fatal complications (e.g. heart arrest).

First aid measures are directed at decontamination by copious flushing of the skin with water. Clothes must be removed with caution (danger for rescuers). Then, apply a thick layer of calcium gluconate gel to the critical skin areas. Hydrofluoric acid accidents always require medical treatment (call the emergency physician if a large skin area is involved).
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Boxered
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Postby Boxered » Wed Dec 15, 2004 9:58 am

That's why my bikes always mingin.............for safety purposes :lol:


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Postby Archie » Wed Dec 15, 2004 2:33 pm

Lightrunner wrote:Has anyone here tried Autosol?


Get a cheap bench grinder, £20, and a buffing wheel.

You just have to take the headers off......

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Postby adamski49 » Wed Dec 15, 2004 2:47 pm

Archie wrote:
Lightrunner wrote:Has anyone here tried Autosol?


Get a cheap bench grinder, £20, and a buffing wheel.

You just have to take the headers off......


This was my answer but it's still sat in the garage behind the bike with the scruffy headers. I'll give it a shot next spring.

Image

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Forgive me father for I have sinned... ex S owner moved onto pastures new with four cylinders and a chain... and back to a twin, albeit in a V.

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Postby Lightrunner » Wed Dec 15, 2004 2:55 pm

Archie wrote:
Lightrunner wrote:Has anyone here tried Autosol?


Get a cheap bench grinder, £20, and a buffing wheel.

You just have to take the headers off......


Sounds clever.... if I can ask another dumb question which bit's the header?


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