I know this subject was covered in depth in the bad old days of Yahooooo but as well as having to now ask the question myself, it'll be a useful reference for other folks on here as it appears to be a common thing.
I was giving the BM a once-over today and had a quick play with the rear wheel. Hands at 3 & 6 o'clock and give the wheel a firm shake; there's a very slight knock from the hub. Hardly any movement at the wheel but enough to set bells ringing.
I know more than a few folks on here have made the adjustment necessary to get rid of this 'play' so how does one go about it?
Thanks, as always, for any help.
Rear wheel 'wobble'
Moderators: Gromit, Paul, slparry
Richard
First get the tools for the job.
30mm socket
12mm hex 1/2 drive
torque wrench(s)
locktite if you feel the need
Get back of bike in the air,you can remove rear wheel if you like but adjustment can be made in place.Crack locknut on inside of paralever with 30mm socket and a big bar.YEs ITS BLOODY TIGHT!Slacken locknut on adjusting pin.If covered in locktite or when trying to remove it moves the pin aswell,give it a good clean.Make sure you clean out the threads good.If all is well set your torque wrench to 7nm and tighten adjusting pin using 12mm hex.Then tighten locknut up to 160nm,locktite if you feel the need.Job done.It gets more involved if you want to strip and regrease or replce bearings.If you want a rundown of how to do that then do a search you lazy sod1Or just ask nicely.
gus
First get the tools for the job.
30mm socket
12mm hex 1/2 drive
torque wrench(s)
locktite if you feel the need
Get back of bike in the air,you can remove rear wheel if you like but adjustment can be made in place.Crack locknut on inside of paralever with 30mm socket and a big bar.YEs ITS BLOODY TIGHT!Slacken locknut on adjusting pin.If covered in locktite or when trying to remove it moves the pin aswell,give it a good clean.Make sure you clean out the threads good.If all is well set your torque wrench to 7nm and tighten adjusting pin using 12mm hex.Then tighten locknut up to 160nm,locktite if you feel the need.Job done.It gets more involved if you want to strip and regrease or replce bearings.If you want a rundown of how to do that then do a search you lazy sod1Or just ask nicely.
gus
- Boxadog 2000
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Rear Wheel Wobble
Gus
Read your recent post, just one question when you say clean the threads can you/do you remove the pin completeley or just clean the exposed bit.
I had my final drive rebuilt under warranty last year only to find out that all that was neede was for the para bearings to be adjusted.
Alternativley I could take it to a dealer as the warranty work has a 12 month gurantee.
Bob
Read your recent post, just one question when you say clean the threads can you/do you remove the pin completeley or just clean the exposed bit.
I had my final drive rebuilt under warranty last year only to find out that all that was neede was for the para bearings to be adjusted.
Alternativley I could take it to a dealer as the warranty work has a 12 month gurantee.
Bob
- bigblackfalco
- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 10:05 am
- Location: Darkest Aberdeenshire
Richard,the way I've read your post is that you have wheel play ie. coming from the wheel bearing?
There is supposed to be a minimal amount of free play,if you think there is too much,and you are sure it is the wheel and not the Paralever bearings.It will mean you need a new bearing.The unit is non-adjustable.
It is strange that there have been a few people commenting on wheel bearings lately;checked mine at the weekend...they are on their way too!
I don't think it's a major job to change the bearing.probably an hours labour and £50.00 in parts.
Bailey.
There is supposed to be a minimal amount of free play,if you think there is too much,and you are sure it is the wheel and not the Paralever bearings.It will mean you need a new bearing.The unit is non-adjustable.
It is strange that there have been a few people commenting on wheel bearings lately;checked mine at the weekend...they are on their way too!
I don't think it's a major job to change the bearing.probably an hours labour and £50.00 in parts.
Bailey.
Morning all
I would say to seperate the inside big nut and aduster when you have it off because you take up the slack and adjust the play with the 12mm hex before locking it tight with the 30mm nut. Just reassembling with the nut and adjuster 'as was' wont change the amount of slack you had before If it's got locking juice then you'll need to heat it up. If you want to put some on when reassembling I have some I could send you to borrow - it's £30 for alittle pot andyou only need a dribble.
As for the play, if it's wobbling at hands at 9 and 3 then i'd say it's probably the bearings like Bailey says. Its its wobbling at 12 and 6 then it could be the paralever bearings. Having said that I've got no 'wobble' just a really rough running wheel when I turn it
Oh yea - spoke to motorworks yesterday looking for a 2nd hand bevel (which they didn't have ) and they reckon around £100 for the bearings and seals - christ knows how much to have Mr S Ceenyocomming to change them. I'm dropping mine off this morning cos they were shut yesterday - hopefully they might be able to do it this week
Jason
I would say to seperate the inside big nut and aduster when you have it off because you take up the slack and adjust the play with the 12mm hex before locking it tight with the 30mm nut. Just reassembling with the nut and adjuster 'as was' wont change the amount of slack you had before If it's got locking juice then you'll need to heat it up. If you want to put some on when reassembling I have some I could send you to borrow - it's £30 for alittle pot andyou only need a dribble.
As for the play, if it's wobbling at hands at 9 and 3 then i'd say it's probably the bearings like Bailey says. Its its wobbling at 12 and 6 then it could be the paralever bearings. Having said that I've got no 'wobble' just a really rough running wheel when I turn it
Oh yea - spoke to motorworks yesterday looking for a 2nd hand bevel (which they didn't have ) and they reckon around £100 for the bearings and seals - christ knows how much to have Mr S Ceenyocomming to change them. I'm dropping mine off this morning cos they were shut yesterday - hopefully they might be able to do it this week
Jason
Talking of bearings,ordered some front wheel bearings today.Mine have been humming on the front when turning,so new ones were in order.Big one was £20,small one £5 +vat.Saw the dealer prepping a new GS for saturdays launch,Very nice in the flesh and it looks skeletal in the frame and drivetrain area.Anybody going to Clarks(rednal)on sat or sun for a go?
gus
gus
julian wrote:Richard
.... wasn't it just serviced last week?
Julian
Indeed it was - I had another fiddle with the wheel today, I think I'm just being a bit paranoid as it only gave the slightest 'knock' when given a good shake.
I might still ring SLM though, see if they actually checked it. They picked up quite a few small things which I'd not really noticed - mostly things like slightly perished intake rubbers etc so I'd be a bit surprised if they didn't check the rear hub/Paralever bearings.
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